Think tank advice

   / Think tank advice #22  
MJfox has the right thing.

Gorrila lift has a website as well.

There are several brands out there.

I built my own, and they are very effective.

Go to Lawnsite.com or other mowing websites and you will see plenty of variations.

This is a relatively cheap (I have under $100 in mine) and easy problem to overcome.
 
   / Think tank advice #23  
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   / Think tank advice #24  
bones1 said:
lugnut, I need a visual.:confused: I can see where the two pieces of square tubing would take the place of a spline but I can't see what the 2 pieces of round are for.Do you have time to draw it in Paint and post it?.

I'm no artist, so I will try to explain it. The round pieces would be used like a hinge. The ramps would have the larger sized square tubes welded to them. The ramps would slide over the smaller, trailer width square tube. The smaller round tubes (or solid pipe) would be welded to the ends of the smaller, trailer width tube. The larger round tubes would be attached to the trailer.

You could make one end of the round tube longer, so that you could attach the pulley. I'm not a mechanical engineer, but I would think the pulley would not have to be very large if you were using a 1500-2000 lb winch. The winch could be mounted out of the way right behing the fender.
 
   / Think tank advice #25  
mjfox6 said:
I don't know anything about this product, but it has perfect reviews at Northern Tool.

Gorilla-Lift 2-Sided Tailgate Lift Assist, Model# 40101042G | Trailer Hardware | Northern Tool + Equipment

From looking at the photo of OP's trailer and his stated requirements, I don't think those will meet his needs.

I have a friend who has those on his trailer. They are an assist device, not a power lift. You have to bend over and start the gate up. They provide little assist at the initial lift point. I think the reviews are an exageration of its benefits.

I have something similar on my own 20 foot trailer, except it is a leaf spring operating on the gate from below. I also slows the gate to almost nothing on the way down, but it still requires some effort to get the gate started back up.
 
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#26  
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#27  
   / Think tank advice #28  
It is a matter of how and where they are mounted, the strength of springs used and the pivot points on the trailer and the back of the lift.

That design will lift those gates.

Before I built mine on my trailer, it took substantial effort from one person to close the gate, or moderate effort from 2 people.

With my gate lifts in place, you hook your toe under the gate, and lift and the gate will close.

From my perspective, the winch, cable, hoist assemblies are far more complicated requiring a lot more fabrication etc and I doubt will work as well.

Good luck with whatever you choose.

I think the reviews are pretty accurate actually, and am familar with several sets and different brands.
 
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#29  
Alan, I would like to see more examples of this or do you have any pics of your setup? It would be a much simpler solution.Who are the other manufacturers?.Thanks Alan.
 
   / Think tank advice #30  
   / Think tank advice #31  
Egon, I'm trying to picture just what you mean.

The fellow following my post attached a picture of one of the methods I was thinking of. Mine would have been out farther and a little taller. They could be triangular shaped to give support on the trailer bed and be able to lock them down.

The other method , sliding ramps may be quite simple. Mk trailer has ramp storage on the side onto which the ramps are slid. Of course I have to take them off and carry them around to the side.

This type of method should be adaptable to the rear using a winch and cable to slide out or retrieve the ramp. Both ramps may have to be connected together and set up so that at in the extended position they are supported and locked in place. There could be many different versions of doing this.:D

If this does not make sense I can take pencil and paper in hand and produce a very rough copy.:D
 
   / Think tank advice #32  
The ones I bought for work were "back Savers"

(and they are)

BackSaver Tailgate Assist * Installation Info

I have them on two of our trailers with very heavy gates. I modeled mine after them, with modifications to fix what I see as problems with their parts, specifically the plastic outfeed rollers that the cable runs over.
 
   / Think tank advice #33  
AlanB,

You Da Man! I had been looking at the Gorilla Lifts, thinking all along, that there had to be a way to fabricate them. I had been thinking about using old school garage door springs.

Anymore info on the ones you fabricated would be great.

thanks!
 
   / Think tank advice #34  
I can take some pictures tonight I think (have to go see my son's teacher though, so maybe not)

I went to Lowes and bought a pair of the heavy springs. They come in different weights, and they had an assortment there.

I used 2" square tubing to enclose the springs, so nobodys hands etc could get in there.

At the end, I added another peice of tubing (this will take a picture to explain) but basicly the only sheaves I found were these

1.5"Dx7/16"Thk1/2"Hole 3/16"Cable 525Lb-WLLSheave w/BrnzBush | Fastenal

I made up some Aircraft cables with eyes on the end, hooked one eye over the spring, then the other (if I remember right, I C clamped to test) then bolted through the side of my tailgate frame.

I wanted my springs encased.

I wanted heavy steel for the tube so I can add tie downs on them which I have never done and my DW was uh,,, reminding me that I needed to do.

I wanted nice sheaves in place to keep the cables going in the right place and not binding.

I wanted to be able to easily disconnect from the tailgate as we take ours off fairly often.

The only other caution I have (and you can believe this or not) was that the wife, on the first day of use, reached down and grabbed the gate, forgetting about the lifts.... She jerked up on the gate like she would have the day before and hit herself in the face with the gate, darn near knocking herself out. She was PISSSED when she got home... my laughing did not help much either.

Will try and grab some pictures.
 
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#35  
Thanks Alan.Can't wait to see the pictures.Do you think a setup like yours could be made to work mounted under the trailer pulling the bottom of the ramp?.
 
   / Think tank advice #36  
Not sure I follow, the spring is overcoming gravity on mine, is there something pulling your ramps "up"? like a spring or winch or something?
 
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#37  
No Alan.I just need to mount below the trailer deck and was wondering if there was a way to attach the spring to the bottom, below the pivot point, of the ramps but that might work backwards I think.I may have just qualified for the dumb question of the day award.:eek:
 
   / Think tank advice #39  
Well, this won't get rid of the springs, enclosure boxes, or cables, but...

I am thinking about a hybrid model, take AlanB's design, then weld a flange or bar to the bottom of the tailgate, and fasten a linear actuactor to the flange. Since the springs are overcoming most of the force of gravity, the linear actuator should be able to handle both UP and DOWN , with no more than a 12v supply, and proper wire gauge.

My trailers & vehicles already have the 7 prong RV style trailer plug, so wiring the trailer for Power with a simple ON-off-ON (UP- off -DOWN) switch shouldn't be much effort.

Hmmm....thinking....
 
   / Think tank advice
  • Thread Starter
#40  
SkunkWerX said:
Well, this won't get rid of the springs, enclosure boxes, or cables, but...

I am thinking about a hybrid model, take AlanB's design, then weld a flange or bar to the bottom of the tailgate, and fasten a linear actuactor to the flange. Since the springs are overcoming most of the force of gravity, the linear actuator should be able to handle both UP and DOWN , with no more than a 12v supply, and proper wire gauge.

My trailers & vehicles already have the 7 prong RV style trailer plug, so wiring the trailer for Power with a simple ON-off-ON (UP- off -DOWN) switch shouldn't be much effort.

Hmmm....thinking....
Good idea skunkWerx....keep em coming...never thought about using both:D
 

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