The Log house Project begins........

/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,241  
Rick,
What are you going to use to put a finish on the walnut?
hugs, Brandi
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,242  
Ron your a riot.:D These spikes where really nails about a foot long and about 1/2 inch diameter. My Dad was an Aggie, but an honest Aggie.:laughing:
hugs, Brandi

I'm sure he was.
You wouldn't believe the number of old iron RR spikes in trees up here leading to old rotted out deer stands.
Of course now they use fold up ladders with padded perches and porta-potties built in.:cool:
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,243  
pacerron - and don't forget the add-on pockets for cell phone and MP3 player. :)
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,244  
Yep, That's the old tried and true method.
Ok for some small projects, but I sure wouldn't want to have to do it to
a couple thousand linear feet of door, window, and base molding.
The problem with Walnut is the finer you sand it the more the color and contrast dulls. Then it takes some oil to get the richness alive again.
Then rub, rub, rub.

I can see the natural curve of an old flintlock on that first crooked piece
of walnut you pictured:D
It is usually easier to deal with the fuzzies after your first coat of finish is on and cured. The finish tends to lock them in place, so when you hit it with fine sandpaper (nothing coarser than 220) it shears them right off and leaves a baby-butt smooth surface. You need to continue adding finish layers of course, as the first one gets scuffed up pretty bad, but you weren't stopping at one coat anyways, now were you? :D

If you just use oil, you will need to wait a while (a few days) as that stuff cures very slowly.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,245  
pacerron - and don't forget the add-on pockets for cell phone and MP3 player. :)

For sure.. and lunch:D
They are not supposed to use the walkie talkies or cell phones to let their buddy know a big one is heading there way but don't bet on it:)
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,246  
It is usually easier to deal with the fuzzies after your first coat of finish is on and cured. The finish tends to lock them in place, so when you hit it with fine sandpaper (nothing coarser than 220) it shears them right off and leaves a baby-butt smooth surface. You need to continue adding finish layers of course, as the first one gets scuffed up pretty bad, but you weren't stopping at one coat anyways, now were you? :D

If you just use oil, you will need to wait a while (a few days) as that stuff cures very slowly.

Not me, I used red oak for my trim, a pre-stain conditioner, and some custom dark stain my cabinet maker witched together and sold me so the trim would have an exact match, and a spray gun for the final finish. Still a fun beginning
became a labor of dedication and a case of "cabin fever" long before I got all the trim done and the panel doors as well. But it turned out well.
It is strange though, how when you do stuff yourself, everybody oohs and aahs about it, but you remember right where every blemish is located and how you tried to fix it.
I was really just interested in M-7's plan to attack the fuzzies and what finish he will use since I hate laborious time consuming sanding anyway and remember the time spent getting Walnut right on past projects.
Thanks for your input. I've done that method as well.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,247  
I'm sure he was.
You wouldn't believe the number of old iron RR spikes in trees up here leading to old rotted out deer stands.
Of course now they use fold up ladders with padded perches and porta-potties built in.:cool:

Ron,
I can't see using RR spikes. Kinda short for a full foot width to step on. Must have just been knubs to step on.
hugs, Brandi
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,248  
Ron,
I can't see using RR spikes. Kinda short for a full foot width to step on. Must have just been knubs to step on.
hugs, Brandi

You must have big feet:laughing:
The boots of yesteryear weren't all puffy with quilting and bottoms to make you 3 inches taller and your feet 2 inches wider. They didn't even keep your feet warm!
Most trees had the spikes up both sides so you used both hands and both feet and climbed like a monkey. 3-4 inches sticking out was plenty.
You pulled your gear up with a rope after you got up there.
Geez.. I wouldn't want to take you rock climbing:D
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,249  
Rick,
What are you going to use to put a finish on the walnut?
hugs, Brandi

Why more Tung Oil of course:thumbsup:

Love the stuff!

No sanding on the Walnut...it's going up right off the sawmill...after drying of course.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,250  
I framed up all the main floor interior walls, took pictures and now they didn't show up on the camera download
scratch.gif


So then I started on the vaulted ceiling rafters in the bathrood and master bedroom. I had to make a template first:
Studwallsandvaultedceilings002.jpg


Then replicate them and put 'em up:
Studwallsandvaultedceilings006.jpg


Studwallsandvaultedceilings004.jpg
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,251  
Then I decked the ceiling with 2x10's:
Studwallsandvaultedceilings007.jpg


Studwallsandvaultedceilings009.jpg


Now I can build stud walls up in the loft tomorrow.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,252  
Then I decked the ceiling with 2x10's...
M7,
What kind of wood did you use for the ceiling rafters and ceiling decking? Did you mill it yourself?
Obed
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,253  
The rafters are Hemlock milled by me, the decking is SYP and store bought(same decking I put on the rest of the house).

Some shots of interior walls:
Takedowns009.jpg


Takedowns010.jpg


The stuff in the middle of the great room is the two toilets( I got the ones that will flush a bucket of golf balls...(Arrrruuuuruuuu....ruuuuhhhh...rooooahhhaa), concrete board, natural slate tiles, grout and thinset for the master bath.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,254  
The rafters are Hemlock milled by me, the decking is SYP and store bought(same decking I put on the rest of the house).

Some shots of interior walls:
Takedowns009.jpg


Takedowns010.jpg


The stuff in the middle of the great room is the two toilets( I got the ones that will flush a bucket of golf balls...(Arrrruuuuruuuu....ruuuuhhhh...rooooahhhaa), concrete board, natural slate tiles, grout and thinset for the master bath.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,256  
M-7
Is that one of those do-it-all ladders they advertise on TV?
What brand is it and do you really find it as great and stable as advertised?
Ron
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,257  
Thanks Lee...there is a light at the end of the tunnel...!

Pacer, yes that's a 22' Gorilla ladder made by Werner which is a little Giant copy:
22 ft. Aluminum Telescoping Multi-position Ladder 300 Lbs. Load Capacity ( Type IA Duty Rating )-MT-22 at The Home Depot

I also have the 13' one and I love them. They are a wee bit heavier than a regular telescoping ladder, but way more versatile and yes very stable. I have never split them apart and used them for scaffolding yet but it would only take about 3 min to do so. These are over 5 years old and I will never buy any other type of ladder. Initially I wanted a Little Giant, but the price is so dang high and the Werners are half their price...so Werner it is.
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,258  
Well,boys and girls...I have met my match. Waterproof basement paint...DryLock brand....$108 for 5 gal...the label says you can spray it....NOT...it's like day old waffle batter. And, I am the waffle King in this house and mine is never that thick. Anyway my new sprayer would not even pick the stuff up, so it was back to the medieval method of a stinking roller with a 1 1/4" nap. One dip in the pan would cover about a square foot and it took two dips to get the first coat on. Painstakingly slow...my neck and shoulder are screaming after getting half the basement done with a first coat.

I did have a premonition and stopped by a local company that specialized in waterproofing basements. 6 company trucks parked out front and the door was locked..no one home:confused: So, I called, and left a message, a lady called back and I asked for a quote to do 1400 sq ft of new basement wall. She said she would work it up and call me back,,,,,NEVER HAPPENED:confused3:

Once again, the economy must be so good that you can idle 6 of your trucks and not follow up on a good lead....sheesh.

Enough whining....it should be done by Sunday:thumbsup:
 
/ The Log house Project begins........ #1,259  
I have a paint crew plus from Wagner and it moves some pretty thick stuff the hiding stain for my deck was thick and it put it on like butter.


  • Pressure rating: 2800 PSI (190 bar)
  • Included tip: 415
  • Maximum tip: 015 in (38 mm)
  • Motor: 1/2 hp (0.37 kW)
  • Flow rate: 0.22 gpm (0.841 lpm)
  • Hopper capacity: 2.5 gallon (9.5L)
  • Input power: 120 volts / 60 Hz

41eYQA6hjmL_1_.jpg
 
/ The Log house Project begins........
  • Thread Starter
#1,260  
Tom...I'm talking thick, almost like a 5 gallon pail of drywall mud, and on top of that it's gritty like it has sand in it:shocked:
 

Marketplace Items

UNUSED FUTURE FT15 EXCAVATOR (A60430)
UNUSED FUTURE FT15...
Unused 2025 CFG Industrial H15R Mini Excavator (A59228)
Unused 2025 CFG...
2013 Chevrolet Silverado 1500 Pickup Truck (A59230)
2013 Chevrolet...
2018 Ram 1500 4x4 Crew Cab Pickup Truck (A59230)
2018 Ram 1500 4x4...
2020 Takeuchi TL8R2 Track Loader with 72in Tooth Bucket (A61306)
2020 Takeuchi...
WHIRLPOOL REFRIGERATOR/FREEZER W/ICE MAKER (A60432)
WHIRLPOOL...
 
Top