The Log house Project begins........

[pacerron]

Tom...I'm talking thick, almost like a 5 gallon pail of drywall mud, and on top of that it's gritty like it has sand in it:shocked:

I sprayed it on my poured concrete basement walls by mixing it with regular latex paint to thin it down. That was over 20 years ago and it is still like new.
Since paints have changed so much over the years, it would be adviseable to talk to the paint mixing folks and check this method out on line before proceeding.

 

[forgeblast]

I rolled it out and then went back with a brush to get any small spots. I think it worked. Our basement is so much nicer now.

 

[MotorSeven]

Pacer it says "DO NOT THIN" on the label. Some guys here suggested using a short real fat 3 bristle brush that screws on a paint stick. I tried it, and it does a much better job of filling the pores than the roller. It still only covers about one square foot per "dip", then has to be rolled after, slow but good. It takes about an hour a gallon to get the first coat on.......who needs to work out in a silly gym:confused2:

I read the label again and it actually does have sand in it....makes me wonder why, and how the heck could you spray a paint with sand in it

If the rain will go away, I can get finished today:thumbsup:

 

[B7510HSD]

Pacer it says "DO NOT THIN" on the label. Some guys here suggested using a short real fat 3 bristle brush that screws on a paint stick. I tried it, and it does a much better job of filling the pores than the roller. It still only covers about one square foot per "dip", then has to be rolled after, slow but good. It takes about an hour a gallon to get the first coat on.......who needs to work out in a silly gym:confused2:

I read the label again and it actually does have sand in it....makes me wonder why, and how the heck could you spray a paint with sand in it

If the rain will go away, I can get finished today:thumbsup:

Couldn't you use a texter gun to spry it if it is that thick?

 

[pacerron]

Couldn't you use a texter gun to spry it if it is that thick?

Pacer it says "DO NOT THIN" on the label. Some guys here suggested using a short real fat 3 bristle brush that screws on a paint stick. I tried it, and it does a much better job of filling the pores than the roller. It still only covers about one square foot per "dip", then has to be rolled after, slow but good. It takes about an hour a gallon to get the first coat on.......who needs to work out in a silly gym:confused2:

I read the label again and it actually does have sand in it....makes me wonder why, and how the heck could you spray a paint with sand in it

If the rain will go away, I can get finished today:thumbsup:

M-7
Better not thin it with anything then. Seems like today's paint's are thinner and more air at the top than the old paints.
Spraying a big area makes your hands sore too and the cleanup of the spray equipment is what takes a lot of time too.
Got 5 gallon of deck stain recently and there was at least 2 inches of air space. The clerk says, oh that's for the color additive.
Right... still had 1 and 15/16ths air space after the color.
Some of the other brand plastic tubs were 4.75 gallon container size.
I guess paint pails are getting to be like ice cream containers:confused2:

 

[MotorSeven]

Couldn't you use a texter gun to spry it if it is that thick?

My neighbor down the road and I were just discussing that yesterday afternoon. Turns out he has a knockdown sprayer....but it's too late...............IT'S ALL DONE:thumbsup:

Pacer everything is shrinking as we grow older:laughing:

 

[tnmike]

I cannot imagine any sprayer having the pressure needed to force the block sealer I've used into the pores of the block like a stiff brush does.

 

[MotorSeven]

I cannot imagine any sprayer having the pressure needed to force the block sealer I've used into the pores of the block like a stiff brush does.

How about a pool marcite sprayer:laughing:

Stiff brush = stiff sore muscles = me this morning

We start on electrical this week. For the basement I bought 4 double bulb, 4' Fluro fixtures for the High Output bulbs...man those things are bright.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I envy your progress. Keep the good news coming.

 

[brin]

How about a pool marcite sprayer:laughing:

Stiff brush = stiff sore muscles = me this morning

We start on electrical this week. For the basement I bought 4 double bulb, 4' Fluro fixtures for the High Output bulbs...man those things are bright.

We installed 6 fluro fixtures also 4 ft. in our basement 7 yrs. ago when we built the house and all bulbs are still burning, I have not had to replace one..and yes they are bright...almost too bright unless I am working on a project and then it is great.

Your Masterpiece of a home is just that....what a great job and achievement...:thumbsup:

 

[MotorSeven]

I'll post some pic's later, but there are some things learned I want to relate:

500 Watt Halogen Work Lights...I bought a couple of doubles on stands when TSP had them on sale. Couldn't keep bulbs in them. They either last an hour, a few hours or a few days before burning out. I replaced half a dozen bulbs.....then I noticed the bulbs were burnt to a crisp. Hmmmm, these things put out a tremendous amount of heat, and the enclosure has ZERO venting. So I took the glass covers out of the frames and I have not had a failure in a week...which is a big improvement.

Extendable Paint Roller Poles...I had a nice one to start with, but right away snapped the plastic threaded part that goes into the roller handle. Went to town and bought another one that had metal threads......yep snapped that one today(Arnold Swartzenager voice: "I don't know my own strength!"). In desperation I looked around and found a 1/2" section of metal EMT...yes, it threaded right into the roller & didn't come loose over 36' of wall. A stick of EMT is way cheaper than a fancy two piece pole.

 

[Bilko]

I had the same problem with those lights. So what I did was drill holes in the top and bottom of the fixture to allow the heat to dissipate. Haven't had any blow bulbs since.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I had the same problem with those lights. So what I did was drill holes in the top and bottom of the fixture to allow the heat to dissipate. Haven't had any blow bulbs since.

That's good advice. I picked up a set of work lights at a yard sale with burned out bulbs. It was as cheap to buy a 10 pack of bulbs from Amazon as it was to buy the two I needed. Now I have 8 spare bulbs, but I'd rather not go through them all at once. If I get a burnout, I'll try drilling holes. I'm thinking I'll stick with the bottom and sides just incase the lights end up out in the rain at some point.

 

[MotorSeven]

Here is a pic of the 1,000bf or 4/4 Poplar "Culls" I picked up from the sawmill for $135:

It took some time to sticker and stack, but it's the best bundle I have bought so far...all really nice boards.

Framed out hallway from Master bath to Bedroom:

Loft bathroom frame out:

 

[MotorSeven]

Loft knee wall framed out(there will be storage in that "V" area along the entire length):

Basement walls(my basement should be empty right???):

But noooo, it looks like this:

 

[MotorSeven]

And this:

And the new fridge(yes it's plugged in and yes it has a case of Miller in it:thumbsup

 

[tnmike]

You may be doing this but I thought I would post this anyway
The 500 Watt halogen bulbs must not be touched with the bare skin
The oil on your skin will destroyed the bulb post haste. Use nitrile gloves to install them

 

[MotorSeven]

You may be doing this but I thought I would post this anyway
The 500 Watt halogen bulbs must not be touched with the bare skin
The oil on your skin will destroyed the bulb post haste. Use nitrile gloves to install them

Yep, I always kept the bubble wrap on them until after they were installed.

I meet the electrician today, and go to Home Desperate to pick up all the supplies.

 

[tnmike]

Get ready for super sticker shock on those supplies.

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

I see your supermotard bike. Now I have even more respect for you if that is possible!

Maybe soon you'll have time to ride it again.