Tell me about 3PH splitters

   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #21  
So the OP is looking for comments on simple wood splitters and wants to minimize his costs. He is considering a 3PH splitter to save $$ and maintenance .

And we give examples of two tractor's plus a wagon as a working option. Or $8K commercial units.

These thread diversions just amaze me...
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #22  
So the OP is looking for comments on simple wood splitters and wants to minimize his costs. He is considering a 3PH splitter to save $$ and maintenance .

And we give examples of two tractor's plus a wagon as a working option. Or $8K commercial units.

These thread diversions just amaze me...

Read again. I do believe that I said that the 8k commercial unit is what I am going to get. I also stated that I have had and used extensively a 3ph unit that I got from Tractor Supply and that it would go through just about anything and that I had split many many cords of wood with it. I thought that was what he was asking about? :confused3:
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #23  
Get the 22 ton, stand alone unit from TSC (usually around $950). Major benefit is it is on a towable trailer. Most 3 pt units are a couple hundred less, but why put extra hours on a tractor to save $200?
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #24  
So the OP is looking for comments on simple wood splitters and wants to minimize his costs. He is considering a 3PH splitter to save $$ and maintenance .

And we give examples of two tractor's plus a wagon as a working option. Or $8K commercial units.

These thread diversions just amaze me...

Maybe YOU should read his FIRST post, here, let me help you out,

Tell me about 3PH splitters

Later this year I will be taking down about 40 full size cotton wood, and maple trees, and a few sycamores to build a path through my woods to install my shooting range. This means I will have ALOT of firewood to process. I am torn about log splitters whether I want a 3 point to save a bit of money or not. I have looked at the splitfire 3403 which is a 3ph dual acting, with a 4 way wedge. Looks like I can get that for 2k. I was hoping to spend under 1k, but will spring the money if its REALLY worth spending. The only real reason for going 3ph is because of the extra engine that will need to be maintained. if I buy one with an engine it will be barn kept. Once these tree's are processed I will probably only split a cord or two a year.

The dual action deal seems pretty nice but I am not sure if it's worth the extra dough.

Would I be better off to try and buy a used one?

What "I" read is, he was willing to spend more IF "it was worth it". He wanted a 4-way wedge and he wanted to learn about 3 point splitters... That's when I came on board and MY post have answered those questions...

NOW you want to breakballs because I tried to help out by answering his first post???

BTW, I haven't seen ANY cheapo splitter that has a 4-way that's worth a hoot!

SR
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #25  
Some things I forgot to mention. I used an 8# maul exclusively until about 2002. That's when I bought the 3ph splitter and it was sooooo nice, especially since I had back surgery in 1998 and I have always split 10 - 15 cords per year. Granted, it's not THAT big of a deal splitting for an outside wood boiler.

Most of the 3ph splitters I have seen, set sideways on the back of the tractor. This is good because it makes it compact and is less likely to drag when crossing creeks, little swales, and low places in general. The bad side to this is, when you split, a lot of your chunks fall inside between the splitter and tractor tire. What I generally do, is let the chunks build up there then keep splitting and tossing the ones I can reach over to the side. When the build up gets to be too much, I raise the splitter and pull off of the pile and back in to another place. A friend of mine remedied this on his splitter. He modified it to stick straight back. I have considered this but just haven't gotten a rounduit yet.

Another nice thing about the 3ph splitter is, I can hook up to it, throw my saws, maul, fuel, bar oil, and a log chain in my bucket, put my saw wrench and a file in the tractor tool box, and I have everything I need right there with me. This is nice if you have a large tree somewhere, some logs already staged, or if, like you, have a lot of trees down in one general area. The down side to it is the fact that your tractor is tied up for skidding.

The reason I am going to a commercial unit is one, I am losing my firewood hand to college this fall and the big rounds are too heavy to lift and it kills me to squat with the unit in the vertical position (back surgery), so I want a log lift. Two, since I am a one man show, I would like to make the process as efficient as possible in order to get the job done before the snow flies, so I definitely want a 4 way and maybe a six way wedge. Three, an 11hp gasoline engine uses less fuel than a 75hp, and you do rack up hours on your tractor for little work. If I had a smaller tractor that didn't get used as much as my farm tractor, it probably wouldn't be that big of a deal. And four, having an outside wood boiler, I would like to split my chunks a little smaller, but cut my rounds 30 inches. The only splitters I have seen that can do that are the commercial ones.

Overall, I have been very pleased with my Tractor Supply/Speeco 3ph splitter, it's just time for me to upgrade now.
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #26  
I've done 20 - 25 cords a year with a no name brand 3 point splitter for 35 years. I love it. I can get it down on the ground and just roll big rounds onto it. My 50 HP tractor has a 12 gpm pump; I idle at 900 rpm, and the splitter goes as fast as I can. If I get into a miserable piece I jack up the rpms which increases the hyd power. Being an older tractor , after 2 hours of use, my body's limit, the tractor may show 1/10th of an hour and a half gallon or so of diesel used.
The speed and power of a splitter is dependent on the gpm and the size of the cylinder.
About 3 years ago my splitter was finally toast. A lot of big cylinder leaks, and the A-frame had been welded too many times because I had welded a wagon hitch to the back of the splitter to haul wagons back. The A-frame isn't heavy enough for that.
I found the same splitter on Craigs list for $400. The guy selling it worked at a Case-IH dealership and had replaced his cylinder with an even bigger rebuilt unit. I sold mine to somebody as a project for $150. Win_win.
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #27  
I can't get my splitter all the way to the ground. Even with the lift arms all the way down, the top of the splitter is still about 20 inches. Other than that, I'm with fishheadbob. Even used the same 50hp tractor that he has until 2009. Always used more than a half a gallon of diesel in a couple of hours though, especially with my 75 horse.
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #28  
I can't get my splitter all the way to the ground. Even with the lift arms all the way down, the top of the splitter is still about 20 inches. Other than that, I'm with fishheadbob. Even used the same 50hp tractor that he has until 2009. Always used more than a half a gallon of diesel in a couple of hours though, especially with my 75 horse.

You have to screw around with the top link to get it flush to the ground.
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #29  
If you would spend under 2K and own both kinds, would you be willing? The reason I ask is I find myself wanting both kinds myself after I injured a wrist last year. Normally I would chainsaw a 24"-30" round about a quarter of the way down on the cut side and whack it once or twice with a 12lb Monstrer Maul. I would then manually lift these quarters to the horizontal splitter. I'm wishing now for a vertical splitter and the cheapest ones are seemingly from Tractor Supply for less than $800. I prefer a horizontal spitter for all around splitting but sure wish I had a vertical for the fat ones.

If you are getting serious about making a constant supply of firewood, I'd get a 3 pt set up that is a good one. If you are going to use your tractor while splitting and it's your only tractor, I'd get a stand alone unit. Both should cost around the same. I do not feel saving money for a cheap unit will be your best value for the long run unless this batch of wood you are talking about is a one off and done. If that is the case, i wouldn't get a splitter at all and sell the wood either cut up or stem length.
 
   / Tell me about 3PH splitters #30  
You have to screw around with the top link to get it flush to the ground.

All that does is change the level of the splitter. The lift arms won't go down any farther. They would on my 3930, but not on my 4030.
 
 

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