Oil & Fuel TC40DA: Oil change nightmare.

[jinman]

Nice work STW.:thumbsup: I'm sure you are a lot braver than I at doing this job yourself. It appears you've hit a home run. Your advice for clearing the problem is very good. Pull the glowplugs and pull the fuel C/O solenoid and crank until all oil is cleared from the cylinders.

In looking at your picture of the fuel C/O solenoid, I could not help but see your fuel inside the filter. That really got my attention because your fuel looks murky instead of very clear with only a slight yellow tint like the diesel we buy here. I'm including a picture (not too good) of my solenoid and fuel filter. I think you can see the difference. Is your filter bowl cloudy, or is that your fuel?

 

[shade tree welder]

Is your filter bowl cloudy, or is that your fuel?

No it is my fuel bowl, not my fuel, the bowl is frosted, I do not like it.

One of these days I will fix it.

 

[Ford850]

Nice work STW.:thumbsup: I'm sure you are a lot braver than I at doing this job yourself. It appears you've hit a home run. Your advice for clearing the problem is very good. Pull the glowplugs and pull the fuel C/O solenoid and crank until all oil is cleared from the cylinders.

In looking at your picture of the fuel C/O solenoid, I could not help but see your fuel inside the filter. That really got my attention because your fuel looks murky instead of very clear with only a slight yellow tint like the diesel we buy here. I'm including a picture (not too good) of my solenoid and fuel filter. I think you can see the difference. Is your filter bowl cloudy, or is that your fuel?

Jinman, is that your original fuel bowl? My Case came with a milky plastic bowl which is terrible for trouble shooting. Yours looks like glass it's so clear!

 

[jinman]

Jinman, is that your original fuel bowl? My Case came with a milky plastic bowl which is terrible for trouble shooting. Yours looks like glass it's so clear!

Yep, it's the original and very clear. I can easily see the yellow tint of the fuel looking into it and even check out the condition of the filter. The bowl is plastic as I remember. BTW: Our diesel here is so good and clean that I think I've only changed that filter twice in 1700 hours. I once put 125,000 miles on my truck's fuel filter/water separator and it looked new when I changed it out. I think other areas of the country have additives to the diesel and containment problems we don't have. I have never had the least bit of problems with clean diesel or fuel jelling. It must be regional.

 

[djradz]

Yep, it's the original and very clear. I can easily see the yellow tint of the fuel looking into it and even check out the condition of the filter. The bowl is plastic as I remember. BTW: Our diesel here is so good and clean that I think I've only changed that filter twice in 1700 hours. I once put 125,000 miles on my truck's fuel filter/water separator and it looked new when I changed it out. I think other areas of the country have additives to the diesel and containment problems we don't have. I have never had the least bit of problems with clean diesel or fuel jelling. It must be regional.

Likewise, although not nearly as many hours as you Jim, I've only changed mine once in the nearly 10 years of owning and operating my tractor. Not sure if I'll ever do it again as the fuel here is excellent as well.

 

[Big_Lug]

I am in the process of purchsing a 2002 Case D40 is this a potential problem for this tractor too.It is basically the same thing. Just wondering if the year of the machine makes a difference.

 

[jinman]

I am in the process of purchsing a 2002 Case D40 is this a potential problem for this tractor too.It is basically the same thing. Just wondering if the year of the machine makes a difference.

Big_Lug, you must have speed-read this thread. It was posted that 2005 models did not have the issue and that it probably started in 2006. Your 2002 model should be safe from this problem.:thumbsup:

 

[arnoldziffel]

This continues to be a very real problem out here in the real world.

I've been looking for a small mowing machine and have stumbled upon two different New Holland TC26D machines that suffered this catastrophic damage. All from a "simple" oil change.

I've decided to pass on any of the many affected New Hollands to avoid my own version of this nightmare.

 

[tmeric7]

Thank you all for posting. I'm a brand new member, just registered. I bought a property last fall that came with a TC29DA and I just did my first oil change on it. There is no unusual information in my owners manual (poor slowly, etc.), but the service bulletin you identified indicates that all models of this tractor are affected. I appreciate that this issue came to my attention just before the change because of this and one other thread on this site. Thanks again!

 

[Scottstc]

Scary, I had no idea this was a thing, never thought of looking at the manual for a oil change. Guess I got lucky. I’m going to add a sticker to the inside of my hood just in case my tractor outlives me. I think there should be a sticky at the beginning of this forum on this issue new owners would be more likely to find it.

 

[prunus]

Still a problem in 2025. My tc40a made the big bang after oil change but started with white smoke which clears after 2 minutes or so. Runs OK after warm up.
I replaced injectors with no improvement. Compression test was around 500 and pretty uniform. Probably going to change head gasket next. Any help appreciated. The saga continues.

 

[POGuy]

I am dumbfounded. That is a seriously messed-up design! All because of a quick fix to go to an internal crankcase breather?!?

I wonder how many other engines could suffer the same fate!

I have never worried about pouring oil into an engine, other than trying to keep it from dribbling all over....

It's certainly good that you have such a good relationship with your dealer and he's willing to go to bat for you- give him a pat on the back!

Pics are great, and thanks for posting!!

Government regulations aside, that was a cheap ass bungled solution on new Hollands part. Adding oil to an engine should NEVER cause catastrophic damage unless you forgot to refill after an oil change!

 

[JimR]

If the manufacturer had put in larger oil drain back holes or more holes this never would have happened. The designer should be strung up.

 

[Gator6x4]

Pouring engine oil directly into the valve cover port of a diesel engine
can potentially cause damage, especially if done improperly or excessively.
Here's why and what can happen:

• Overfilling: If you overfill the engine by pouring too much oil into the valve cover, the excess oil can lead to a rise in internal pressure, potentially damaging seals and gaskets, causing leaks and other related issues says Shield Oils.
• Aeration and foaming: Too much oil can cause the crankshaft to churn and aerate the oil, turning it into foam. This foamy oil can hinder proper lubrication, leading to increased friction, overheating, and potential engine failure.
• Oil entering combustion chamber: Excess oil can be forced past piston rings and valve seals into the combustion chamber, leading to oil burning, spark plug fouling, and increased emissions says Shield Oils.
• Damage to catalytic converter: Burning excessive oil can release contaminants into the exhaust stream, potentially degrading the catalytic converter and affecting emissions performance.
• Engine runaway (diesel engines): In severe cases, particularly with diesel engines, massively overfilled oil can cause "engine runaway," where the engine loses control of its speed due to the unregulated combustion of oil mist/fumes drawn into the intake manifold. This can lead to serious damage and even engine destruction.

The proper way to add oil:

1. Use the designated oil fill port: The oil fill port is typically located on top of the engine and is marked with an oil filler cap.
2. Use a funnel: A funnel helps to prevent spills and ensures the oil goes where it's supposed to.
3. Pour slowly and gradually: This allows the oil to settle and prevents overfilling.
4. Check the oil level with the dipstick: After adding oil, wait a few minutes for it to settle, and then use the dipstick to check the oil level, ensuring it is within the recommended range (between the 'FULL' and 'ADD' marks).
5. Avoid overfilling: Only add the necessary amount of oil to bring the level to the 'FULL' mark.

In summary, while adding oil to a diesel engine, it's crucial to:

• Use the correct oil type and quantity as specified in your owner's manual.
• Use the designated oil fill port.
• Add oil slowly and in increments.
• Check the oil level regularly with the dipstick.
• Avoid overfilling at all costs.

If you suspect you've overfilled the engine oil, drain the excess immediately or have a mechanic do it for you, notes Urb's Garage. Avoid driving the vehicle until the issue is corrected to prevent further damage.