T330 Loader Control Valve

[Grut]

Greg more power to you removing the cap every time I thought it was a little pain in the rump to get the screws loosened and out with an allen wrench. You know the loader has a 2 year waranty. Not sure when you got yours so it may be something you want to bring up to dealer because TYM's design wasn't the greatest with the upside down valve with improper venting. Which reminds me to give my dealer a call and see what TYM responded to his letter he wrote because my warranty is running out in Nov some time.

 

[Gregster613]

Grut,
It wasn't very difficult to remove the caps on my design. The allen screw closest to the loader frame was not a "straight" fitment but came out easily.

But; I've yet to see how long that lithium grease lasts before it melts out! I wanted a grease that would provide good lube, (for those tiny balls & their small holes) but I believe I'm gonna hafta find grease wilh a somewhat slow melting tolerance. There was [red] grease residue left from the original mounting. I felt that moly grease - like I use on my loader fittings - would be too stiff? Maybe not though - I hadn't thought about the large heat build up!
I just came in for a cup of coffee after 1.5 hours of loader usage and my float was working perfectly now! We'll see how long it takes before the grease melts all out.
Greg

 

[Grut]

Greg I used the Lucas RED and TACKY same as the rest of the grease joints!
I shouldn't have complained that it was difficult but a bit agrivating, because the screws are on the tractor side of the vavle and working from the side the lines are in the way. I also had to do it outside in the dirt in the middle of my job. You happen to have a tooth bar for your front loader? Night and day difference, I love mine. Highly recommend if you have any dirt moving to do.

 

[Grut]

Well fellas seems TYM will only give me the LT350 valve and I would have to pay for the rest of the conversion. That is to have a correctly positioned joystick mounted valve mounted to the loader subframe. I emailed the dealer to see what the costs are for welding a plate one and a couple of hoses. That is pretty bad for a company which is of that size and has knowledge about the problem of the valve set up.
Maybe time for buying something else that has better customer warranty support when the TYM warranty runs out.

Les did you happen to start working on the write up for the valve replacement?
I am interested because why not upgrade to a better valve now and eliminate the problems you had and changing it over in the future. Which it seems everytime I need the machine something is r goes wrong with it(Stripped threads on loader frame, backhoe subframe bolts loosening up, frozen loader valve(condensation build up due to valve bing upside down), broken joystick because of valve corrosion, nuetral post on back hoe valve loosened during a job causing ball to pop out, and worn pivot bushings in the hoe), and it isn't due to maintenance because I am religious about that with all my equipment/toys.

 

[Tbrey]

Hey guys anybody have any problems with the control valve for the front end loader on a T330 tractor with a LT300 loader or similar brand(scorpion, etc.). Mine is/was hard to get into float position and getting it out is/was worse. It also has started to stick very slightly in the down position. Today I was using it and the joystick broke--the ball on the neutal post broke off causing the joystick to overtravel forward and break the plastic which covers the cable ball ends and attaches to the boot. No biggy but I was tinkering with it before it got dark and the up/down valve spool was actually causing the whole problem. It appears water entered the vent hole on top and rusted up the spring and I know the spool is sticking, not sure if the water travelled to bottom side haven't tore it off. I know the dealer had said that he figured out the control vavle was actually mounted upside down and to to seal the holes in the top(which is where the spring is) to eliminate water from entering. It was sealed by the dealer when he did some other warranty work this spring.

So much for getting the back of the house back filled!! Time for a beer or 4.

Well off to the dealer tomorrow to see what he has to say about this new deal.

Just got a T433 & cable broke first time using loader. I think they need to design joystick & cables a little different

 

[Grut]

Sorry to hear that Tbrey.
Hopefully your dealer gets you up and running pretty quick.
Keep us posted.
That is a nice tractor you have. How do you like it besides the cable?

 

[Tbrey]

I really love the tractor it is great & the dealer said he would overnight the parts & get me going so that is all I can ask for. I really think the cable was twisted when it was installed at factory. I'll keep you all posted of how it goes, thanks for your support & concern.

 

[kuphus]

This happened to me the last few years to on my 330 HST. Fixed the rusted cable once but now the handle just plain broke. I wonder if this is a common after market item I can pick up at my local tractor farm store or if its worth the drive to go to the dealer. What do you guys think?

 

[joeyd]

I was using my bucket on my 353 HST not a 330, today helping a neighbor move his snow pile from his ATV plow. My joystick locked up when curling the bucket, I brought it home to look at it and it seems like the cable is not attached any more. The pic shows the two curl controls. The right one moves freely without any tension. The left will not move at all. The raise/lower control moves easily but you can feel tension in the control. Do you think this is an easy fix? I did not take the cable off the bottom of the right control not knowing what I was getting into.

One other item, it sounds as if the hydraulics for the curl are still under pressure, if I need to use the tractor for snow blowing will it harm anything?

Sorry the pic will not load, but there are no signs of rust under the boot and everything under the boot seems well greased.

 

[joeyd]

OK, here is the update, I broke the control cable going to the loader valve. I went to my dealer today and picked up a new cable ($50) and received basic info on how to replace it, the service side was closed today. I have reinstalled the cable now all I have to do is reconnect the joystick to the cable end which is a steel ball on a shaft. There are three, the center one in the picture which really is on a corner is stationary and the joystick pivots on it. The left and right ends in the picture controls the FEL and the bucket. I can get any two in their slots but not all three. I stopped today before I tried to force it and break the gray piece which is cast something. The joystick actually screws into the top of the gray piece and I don't know if it is available separately if I break it. I do know that the whole joystick control is $800 so I don't want to go there!

My question now is has anyone had to deal with this in the past? Any hints on how to get all three "balls" into the piece in the picture? I have tried many combinations of raising or lowering the cable ends, different angles etc.