T330 Loader Control Valve
- Thread starter Grut
- Start date
Redneck in training
Elite Member
We have TYM 330 with the cable operated FEL valves. Since float is hard to get into and out I removed the cover of the spool to check if there is rust or any kind of damage. I found it completely clean, well greased without a sign of water. The sticking is apparently caused by the particular design of the spool.
Redneck in training,
Glad to hear you have no water in your valve. How many hours do you happen to have on yours? and do you use the front loader in the winter?
I had at time of failure 91 hours and I use it to move snow in the winter--that is when I noticed it freezing, yes the valve would freeze because when it cooled it condensated and held moisture--confirmed with my dealer that it is a common problem. I would have to start it up and warm it up as normal in low temps that would usually free it up so it wasn't that much of an issue, but it shouldn't have had the moisture which corroded the ball area on the float assy.
It should not be hard to get in and out of float. I took mine apart that is removing the cap and completely removing the float assy(which is the about 2"+ spacer below the cap) cleaned up and greased and reassembled..Works very nice for the time being. This design does not allow moisture to escape, water then settles to the bottom.
Grut
Glad to hear you have no water in your valve. How many hours do you happen to have on yours? and do you use the front loader in the winter?
I had at time of failure 91 hours and I use it to move snow in the winter--that is when I noticed it freezing, yes the valve would freeze because when it cooled it condensated and held moisture--confirmed with my dealer that it is a common problem. I would have to start it up and warm it up as normal in low temps that would usually free it up so it wasn't that much of an issue, but it shouldn't have had the moisture which corroded the ball area on the float assy.
It should not be hard to get in and out of float. I took mine apart that is removing the cap and completely removing the float assy(which is the about 2"+ spacer below the cap) cleaned up and greased and reassembled..Works very nice for the time being. This design does not allow moisture to escape, water then settles to the bottom.
Grut
Redneck in training
Elite Member
My tractor is about 3 years old and has 320 hours. It is used extensively in the winter plowing snow.
I don't know what force is normal to take it from the float. I have to kind of jerk the joystick to overcome the detent but then the valve operates smoothly.
wow! hours and age.
well maybe yours was sealed by your dealer then, because the way it was explained to me is :Factory caps have hole only in top and some dealers modified them by sealing holes and filing a groove in the bottom where the cap butts to the valve on the bucket spool and to the float assy on loader arms spool. That at least removes some water.
I am still waiting to hear from dealer or TYM about what the plans are for mine.
well maybe yours was sealed by your dealer then, because the way it was explained to me is :Factory caps have hole only in top and some dealers modified them by sealing holes and filing a groove in the bottom where the cap butts to the valve on the bucket spool and to the float assy on loader arms spool. That at least removes some water.
I am still waiting to hear from dealer or TYM about what the plans are for mine.
Redneck in training
Elite Member
My has no hole. At least I didn't see it. It is completely sealed. I am out of home but I will check one more time when I get home in few days.
Gregster613
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
- Messages
- 694
- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Greg here, Finally got mad enough at my sticky float valve to get around to tackling the problems I've been having with it. First off, many thanks to JJ for the diagram and Grut for the gut confidence to just open it up and see what was wrong. After I finally did; it was severely corroded and needed a real good cleaning. I soaked it in some diesel overnight and then used emery cloth and elbow grease to clean as best I could.
I had planned to snap some pictures but as usual something else came up at last minute and I needed to get it back into action fast. I packed the snot out of it with some lithium grease and it seems to work fairly well for now. I very well assume that it's an area that often will need attention and I plan to incorporate it into my normal service routine. Especially since I see now how simple it is to take apart and clean up. The TYM valve is different form the prince valve JJ gave as example but still was a piece of cake to dissemble and re-assemble. I had been afraid of hyd fluid spewing everywhere but that is not the case. It seems to be a dry area of the valve that utilizes a compressed spring assembly. The whole unit came off easily and then I just needed my wifes small fingers to assist me in getting the four retaining balls to pop out so's I could completely scour the entire area with emery cloth to clean. Then, I needed those small fingers to assist in getting those tiny balls back into place. Presto - all back together and working fairly smoothly for now. Fingers crossed! I also packed the curl side with grease (altho it had been working just fine all along). Grut, my caps are solid - no weep holes anywhere - and I see that there is no gasket used between the caps. I assume that screws had loosened just enough to allow water from washing to enter. I used blue locktite on screws and if water gets in again I will probably fabricate a slim gasket to try.
All's well for now and my thanks to JJ and Grut once again. Both of you guys gave me the confidence I needed to tackle an unknown. Thanks.
Greg
I had planned to snap some pictures but as usual something else came up at last minute and I needed to get it back into action fast. I packed the snot out of it with some lithium grease and it seems to work fairly well for now. I very well assume that it's an area that often will need attention and I plan to incorporate it into my normal service routine. Especially since I see now how simple it is to take apart and clean up. The TYM valve is different form the prince valve JJ gave as example but still was a piece of cake to dissemble and re-assemble. I had been afraid of hyd fluid spewing everywhere but that is not the case. It seems to be a dry area of the valve that utilizes a compressed spring assembly. The whole unit came off easily and then I just needed my wifes small fingers to assist me in getting the four retaining balls to pop out so's I could completely scour the entire area with emery cloth to clean. Then, I needed those small fingers to assist in getting those tiny balls back into place. Presto - all back together and working fairly smoothly for now. Fingers crossed! I also packed the curl side with grease (altho it had been working just fine all along). Grut, my caps are solid - no weep holes anywhere - and I see that there is no gasket used between the caps. I assume that screws had loosened just enough to allow water from washing to enter. I used blue locktite on screws and if water gets in again I will probably fabricate a slim gasket to try.
All's well for now and my thanks to JJ and Grut once again. Both of you guys gave me the confidence I needed to tackle an unknown. Thanks.
Greg
Greg glad to hear that you got it working better!
The solid caps may be way to patch the problem from manufacturer. Did you have notches or grooves on the cap surface which butts to the actual valve body? I see that when mine was cleaned and sealed by the dealer, he must have ground some grooves in the bottom surface of the cap to vent it and try to keep the condensation drained. Only bad part about that is when the grease gets hot is drips out. I too have been just greasing it to keep it moving properly. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the vent holes on top of the cap and adding a grease fitting to each so I can just shoot a pump in there when I grease all the other points.
The solid caps may be way to patch the problem from manufacturer. Did you have notches or grooves on the cap surface which butts to the actual valve body? I see that when mine was cleaned and sealed by the dealer, he must have ground some grooves in the bottom surface of the cap to vent it and try to keep the condensation drained. Only bad part about that is when the grease gets hot is drips out. I too have been just greasing it to keep it moving properly. I am thinking of drilling and tapping the vent holes on top of the cap and adding a grease fitting to each so I can just shoot a pump in there when I grease all the other points.
Gregster613
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Apr 19, 2009
- Messages
- 694
- Tractor
- 273 TYM. 2009 //Yardmachines 7 Speed Shift-on-the-goScotts L2048
Hi Grut, Thanks for the reply! You know, a grease fitting just might be another idea that'd work as a faster means of replenishing lost grease. I'm gonna think on that idea for awhile; maybe after my warranty runs completely out then I'll do some serious improvements.
Although, after popping off the cap -- it just isn't that hard to do -- [listen to me, talking like I'm some old pro now - Ha! - scared little baby before I got mad & just did it!] where as drilling & tapping into that thin aluminum may again be challenging. I'm satisified & back in business for now. Happy Tractoring! Greg
Although, after popping off the cap -- it just isn't that hard to do -- [listen to me, talking like I'm some old pro now - Ha! - scared little baby before I got mad & just did it!] where as drilling & tapping into that thin aluminum may again be challenging. I'm satisified & back in business for now. Happy Tractoring! Greg