T&T - Which T more useful?

[PineRidge]

Undoubtedly the top link. The only reason it ever comes off is to use the BH, and at that point the stock top link must be used.

 

[PineRidge]

Undoubtedly the top link. The only reason it ever comes off is to use the BH, and at that point the stock top link must be used.

 

[MadReferee]

I agree. Hydraulic top link is always installed. My tilt link cylinder just sits on the shelf gathering dust. Now if I did a lot of "crowning" with the rear blade or box scraper then maybe I might leave it installed.

In my opinion, and I have expressed this privately to Henro and several others, is to go for the top link and forego the tilt link cylinder because it is normally not a cost effective addition to your tractor.

 

[MadReferee]

I agree. Hydraulic top link is always installed. My tilt link cylinder just sits on the shelf gathering dust. Now if I did a lot of "crowning" with the rear blade or box scraper then maybe I might leave it installed.

In my opinion, and I have expressed this privately to Henro and several others, is to go for the top link and forego the tilt link cylinder because it is normally not a cost effective addition to your tractor.

 

[8561]

If I could only have one, it would definately be top. I do use the side pretty regularly as I do a fair amount of box blade work and I have 3 point forks/carry all and the side link makes getting into pallets a lot easier. I also tend to change out implements quite a bit and it makes that job easier as well. However, I use the top for everything (except backhoe).

 

[8561]

If I could only have one, it would definately be top. I do use the side pretty regularly as I do a fair amount of box blade work and I have 3 point forks/carry all and the side link makes getting into pallets a lot easier. I also tend to change out implements quite a bit and it makes that job easier as well. However, I use the top for everything (except backhoe).

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> the tilt link cylinder because it is normally not a cost effective addition to your tractor.
</font>

Hmmm, TBN never ceases to amaze me with its range of opinions. My box scraper and my Harley powered landscape rake benefit tremendously from the tilt cylinder. I never "uninstall" my tilt cylinder and put it on a shelf. Its always on, its always ready and it gets used. Its also very handy with a PHD. Perhaps I'm just getting to much use out of mine. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[_RaT_]

<font color="blue"> the tilt link cylinder because it is normally not a cost effective addition to your tractor.
</font>

Hmmm, TBN never ceases to amaze me with its range of opinions. My box scraper and my Harley powered landscape rake benefit tremendously from the tilt cylinder. I never "uninstall" my tilt cylinder and put it on a shelf. Its always on, its always ready and it gets used. Its also very handy with a PHD. Perhaps I'm just getting to much use out of mine. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RobertN]

I have both on, all the time. I can't imagine taking one or the other off, except maybe for a backhoe.

At a minimum, I would get a two spool valve, for future add-ons.

I use the top link more than my side link for adjustment, but can't imagine not having both.

 

[RobertN]

I have both on, all the time. I can't imagine taking one or the other off, except maybe for a backhoe.

At a minimum, I would get a two spool valve, for future add-ons.

I use the top link more than my side link for adjustment, but can't imagine not having both.

 

[_RaT_]

You need to take the top link off for most post hole diggers, other then that Robert, I don't understand why you would ever shelve one or the other, mine collects dust just fine on the tractor where its always available. TnT makes the tractor "flexible". It is the maximum utmost.

 

[_RaT_]

You need to take the top link off for most post hole diggers, other then that Robert, I don't understand why you would ever shelve one or the other, mine collects dust just fine on the tractor where its always available. TnT makes the tractor "flexible". It is the maximum utmost.

 

[Henro]

Seems most find the top link more valuable...

For me, I'm still up in the air about it. Now my setup is different than most, as I have two tilt cylinders, and I have an extra float section on my control valve which I REALLY like. Also, except for the float section of the control valve, the other three sections have built in pilot-operated check valves, so drift down is not an issue.

I LOVE having the option of float on a tilt cylinder. Here in Western Pa, at least where I am, everything seems to come in compound curves. When plowing snow with the back blade, or using the landscape rake to drag crushed stone on a surface that goes from high on one sided to high on the other, the float lets the rake/blade follow the ground surface much better than the 3PH alone does.

Still, I guess IF I could only have one of them, I probably would go with the top link too. In the beginning I spent too many hours leaning back and manually adjusting my top link when using the box blade. And the top link is key to setting the position of the cutting edge of the rear blade or the height of the tynes on my rake (both when using gage wheels).

 

[Henro]

Seems most find the top link more valuable...

For me, I'm still up in the air about it. Now my setup is different than most, as I have two tilt cylinders, and I have an extra float section on my control valve which I REALLY like. Also, except for the float section of the control valve, the other three sections have built in pilot-operated check valves, so drift down is not an issue.

I LOVE having the option of float on a tilt cylinder. Here in Western Pa, at least where I am, everything seems to come in compound curves. When plowing snow with the back blade, or using the landscape rake to drag crushed stone on a surface that goes from high on one sided to high on the other, the float lets the rake/blade follow the ground surface much better than the 3PH alone does.

Still, I guess IF I could only have one of them, I probably would go with the top link too. In the beginning I spent too many hours leaning back and manually adjusting my top link when using the box blade. And the top link is key to setting the position of the cutting edge of the rear blade or the height of the tynes on my rake (both when using gage wheels).

 

[RobertN]

Ah Grasshopper, PHD does not work well in Shingle Springs rocky soil! PHD is a nice expensive shed ornament /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif This Grasshopper goes right for the generator and electric jack hammer for post holes, and various other digging as needed /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[RobertN]

Ah Grasshopper, PHD does not work well in Shingle Springs rocky soil! PHD is a nice expensive shed ornament /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif This Grasshopper goes right for the generator and electric jack hammer for post holes, and various other digging as needed /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[_RaT_]

My heart weeps for you, never before have I heard such a sad story, you are indeed between a hard place and a rock. I have heard of such soil types but never owned such. My sister is the proud owner of such soil apendage. When she goes to look at a house next time, she will bring a shovel and stab it into the gorund. When using a PHD at her place it wasn't so much of a post hole digger as it was a bolt shearing device. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[_RaT_]

My heart weeps for you, never before have I heard such a sad story, you are indeed between a hard place and a rock. I have heard of such soil types but never owned such. My sister is the proud owner of such soil apendage. When she goes to look at a house next time, she will bring a shovel and stab it into the gorund. When using a PHD at her place it wasn't so much of a post hole digger as it was a bolt shearing device. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

 

[CTyler]

When buying the tractor I knew an HTL would be handy but put it off for a year. After installing it I could not imagine being without one again! The tilt would be nice to have to help crown the drive but thats my only use for it. So the manual tilt is fine. I'd put a cylinder on the blade to rotate it for moving snow etc.. long before a tilt.

I say TOP...but depends on your needs.

 

[CTyler]

When buying the tractor I knew an HTL would be handy but put it off for a year. After installing it I could not imagine being without one again! The tilt would be nice to have to help crown the drive but thats my only use for it. So the manual tilt is fine. I'd put a cylinder on the blade to rotate it for moving snow etc.. long before a tilt.

I say TOP...but depends on your needs.