straight rows, how to

[qzbmpc]

I will be planting about 5000 trees this coming weekend with my new tree planter. I made a few test runs and had trouble keeping the rows straight and parallel. I need about a 7' space between rows and need some advice how to accomplish this. Any help would be appreciated
Thanks, Ken

 

[theboman]

Have a string? Just add a few stakes. That would be the easiest and fastest and pretty darn straight.
X = stake, ----- = string.
X------X------X-----X
Maybe but stakes 21' apart, the a 7, 14, 21 you have a tree. You could guess or mark the string via knot, paint, ribbon, etc.

 

[qzbmpc]

Bo,
My planter is the mechanical type that automatically spaces the trees. The problem I have is the rows are about 600' long and trying to keep them straight and the next row parallel at 7'. It was mentioned to me from a friend to use a string for the first row to set it straight and then try to keep a certain distance to the previous rows tire track. I tried this but it did not seem to work to well. I think I need some type of indicator that marks the next row by dragging on the ground. Not sure how or what this may be yet.
Ken

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Get one of the high power lazer pointers, and attach it to the trqactor, or planter. Set up a target at the end of the row, and just keep the lazer on the target as you pull.

 

[pennwalk]

I wonder if soccer field line paint would help. Maybe even plain old spray paint. It would take some time to lay it out and mark it but you ought to end up with straight lines.

Chris

 

[rsthom]

Ken
This is what I came up with this last weekend to follow the last row of planted trees. I just use vise grips to hold it to the loader bucket. Just pull a pin and I can adjust distance (6-8')
and which side of the tractor it comes out at. I do still use a string and stakes to start the first row, but after that I just just let the marker ride over the last row.
Rick

 

[rsthom]

Lets try the attachment again

 

[toddwulf]

Just like in Boyscouts - Pick an object in the distance that you want to aim at and let her roll. That is of course, if you don't want to follow the very decent advise prior to this one! Good luck. I dug 900' of trench with my backhoe and it turned out straight with a simple stake every 100'.

 

[MossRoad]

The forester that planted my trees used the little flags that sprinkler installers use. They put a flag in the corner, then one about every hundred feet up the property line, closer on hills so you could see the next one as you made the rise.

Then they took a stick of a measured length and held it next to the first row of flags and put a flag parallel to each flag in the first row. They did this for every row. There were about a hundred flags by the time they got finished.

All the tractor driver had to do was point the tractor at the next flag and the rows came out surprisingly straight.

The flags can be purchased for pretty cheap at Lowes, Menards, or any do it yourself sprinkler place.

Hope this helps.

 

[ByuBill]

I suppose that if you wanted a new toy and wanted to spend big $$$$$$ you could get the New Enhanced John Deere Parallel Tracking System./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.deere.com/deerecom/_newsroom/021302_parallel.htm>http://www.deere.com/deerecom/_newsroom/021302_parallel.htm</A>

 

[JerryG]

qzbmpc,
I have used the same type of arrangement as rsthom for several years. The only difference is that I use PVC pipe. It works great. The only thing to chance is getting the first row straight. To do that I just pick out a marker at the end and drive to it on the first pass.

 

[Rch]

You'll need a marker on both sides of the tractor for going back and forth. I'd make the rows 9 or 10 feet apart; after 5-6 years I 've had trouble getting a 5 foot mower down a 7' row. 7 foot rows are for Xmas trees that get shorn then harvested. As stated that first row is real important to get straight. However, I've taken to doing herringbone patterns so that it doesn't look so artificial. I've also done gently curving rows; just make sure that the slit comes together nicely with no overlapping or the trees won't make it through a dry spell.
<A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.tractorbynet.com/cgi-bin/compact/showthreaded.pl?Cat=&Board=implement&Number=44160&Search=true&Forum=All_Forums&Words=Rch&Match=Username&Searchpage=6&Limit=25&Old=allposts&Main=44160>Tree planter thread</A>
I'd make the marker out of metal- they seem to hit things and get bent up. Mine has electrical conduit that telescope into itself so you can collapse one side and snuggle up to a fenceline plus I can bend them back straight. That square tubing may not be as forgiving when you hit something and PVC will shatter.

 

[stmiller2]

I assume that everyone is aware of the federal and state programs that offer cost-share assistance on forestation/reforestation expenses (subject to qualification).

I had about 10 acres of loblolly pines machine planted (former pasture land) in Feb. 2001. The total cost was just shy of $100/acre and my cost was about $60/acre. I had another 10 acres hand planted (cut-over timber land) this Feb. The per acre cost is supposed to be lower for hand planting because no herbicides were used.

The tax rules get a little tricky regarding the treatment of the cost-share assistance. See http://www.timbertax.org/extras/developments/tax_tips.pdf

 

[rozett]

I am trying to do the opposite. Can I get federal assistance too. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

My property hasn't been actively farmed in 50 years and has returned to forest. I've hired a forester to do a forest management plan (state of Maine reimbuses 50% of the cost) and then manage a timber harvest. I need pasture for the horses and an orchard (apples and blueberries) for me. The skidder will cut some nice horse trails for me at no extra cost.

 

[rdln]

I've heard horror stories here in Michigan of landowners allowing the state to plant trees or stock fish and then learning later that part of the deal is having to let the taxpayers hunt and fish your property. Maybe it was just coffee shop rhetoric, but I heard it more than once.

 

[stmiller2]

Interesting.

In North Carolina, the county ranger prepared a forest management plan for my farm at no cost to me. However, I pay all of the fees when I use a consulting forester to arrange and manage timber sales.

 

[Rch]

rdln, I also have heard that. I avoided such programs because of many restrictions including not being able to sell trees( except routine thinning) till certain size or the land itself for various periods of time. It seemed like a morass of regulation !
I know they have equipment to help you plant but try and schedule that sort of thing months in advance when you have a day job is fraught with glitches. I have access to a drive-in cooler at a cheese factory for storage of the trees if the weather is uncooperative. I've had as much as $2000 worth of trees over 1 to 3 weeks waiting for the ground to firm up. A Honey-Baked Ham every Xmas is good insurance ! Having your own equipment really helps work around the weather and the cheese factory is open 24/7.

 

[JRP]

Consider the laser mounted at the row end. Put a translucent laser target on the tractor front with a vertical target line on it. Steer so the laser dot is on the target line.

The diadvantage is setting up the laser for each row.

 

[theboman]

I still think a string. Lots cheaper and a couple stakes. Or use lots of stakes and lots of strings to lay off your garden then follow the lines. Let's see for $50 you can get enough stakes and strings to feed a small nation.