Storing attachments

/ Storing attachments #1  

FL_Cracker

Platinum Member
Joined
Nov 21, 2004
Messages
626
Location
Palm City, FL & Blue Ridge, GA & Freedom, WY
Tractor
Kubota L5030HST,R4 & Kubota RTV900R Utility Vehicle
I have just traded my L2850 for a new L5030 and purchased several new attachments. I wanted to take better care of attachments this time as they are now all new and top of the line HD models.
Question: What kind of ideas are out their for storing them?

The tractor will stay in the barn and so will the backhoe attachment, but I have a 6' BH, 90"FM, 6' BB, 6' Scrape Blade, Wood Chipper, Fertilizer Spreader, and 6' Grapple. I really don't want to put these out in the open and let the weeds grow up through them. I was thinking about a small low pole barn with all four sides available. This way the tractor can back up and put each item away without having to move anything.

The pole barn would only cost a little of my time and some gravel as I have the wood and poles from timber I cut off the property. I would also use Locust trees for the poles, I have lots of them. I would have to purchase the tin for the roof.

Any thoughts or PICTURES of how you solved the problem

Thanks,
.
 
/ Storing attachments #2  
It may be a climate issue, but up here we build them with 3 sizes and a roof. The long closed side is virtually always facing west. Two short closed sides are on the north and the south. The buildings are open on the east side, prevailing winds come from the west, so keeping any driving rain (and in our case sleet, snow & ice) off the implements is accomplished with the closed west wall.
 

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/ Storing attachments #3  
FL,

I/we do like Bob mentioned.

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was thinking about a small low pole barn with all four sides available. This way the tractor can back up and put each item away without having to move anything. )</font>

When you say small/low, what size were you considering? Where I'm going with this is are you thinking of only being able to back the tractor up to the edge of the building or being able to get under it? The open sides for the latter will need to be high enough to get the ROPS under.

Brian
 
/ Storing attachments #4  
I've got the same sort of 3 sided setup as well, with the exception that the 'long enlosed wall' is the east side of the pole barn. So if you've already got a barn, then really all you need do is attatch the 2 short walls and build a roof. We've always called these structures "lean to's".

...Tony
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Bob, nice drawing, that's what I was thinking. Just not sure if it was an overkill. Now all I need to know is which way the winds usually blow.

Thanks, again.

FL
 
/ Storing attachments #6  
<font color="red"> Now all I need to know is which way the winds usually blow. </font>


Hurricanes blow in a circular pattern, don't they? /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#7  
Yes, real fast circles......

That's when you want to be under your 5030 hanging on for dear life.

Oh that's right, the tractor is in GA, so just run from them hurricanes and mow grass while they pass.

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Storing attachments #9  
Around here they are pretty much the same except no peaked roof. About 9'high in front to 6' in the rear, 10 or 12' deep.
 
/ Storing attachments #10  
I have a BX2200 and around 11 attachments. I have a 3 car garage and 2 cars, so the BX goes in the smaller bay. Most of the implements are on dollies and get stored in various odd spots in the garage. When it's time to attach/detach implements, the cars go out and the tractor backs around so the 3ph is just inside the bigger bay. The smooth concrete floor makes it very easy to roll implements right up to the 3ph, minor adjustments can be made with ease. The rear blade has a dolly with a vertical post to hold up the front, when time for attachment, but at storage time, I use the electric hoist in the center of the garage to lift the box blade and sit it piggyback on the rough cutter, which sits on its own dolly. The rc then rolls to a corner. The carry-all has mini-casters on its frame which lets the carry-all roll right under the dolly that the rc is on. In only a minute, these implements are stacked 3 high. It only takes a minute to unstack them as well. The dolly for the rear blade weighs maybe 5 lb. and it goes on top of the stack.

Things like tiller, box blade, dirt scoop, etc. all sit solo on one flat dolly each.

The MMM gets little super dollies under each anti-scalp wheel. With the tractor in neutral, both the MMM and tractor are easily maneuvered for quick attach/detach.

At the edge of the garage wall I have a 10' length of galvanized pipe laying perpendicular across the tops of the trusses. Hanging from the center of the pipe is a chain hoist. The pipe allows me to roll the hoist up to the wall or away from it a couple of feet. I use the chain hoist to lift the PHD from the 3ph, roll it to the wall, rotate and lock it to some eye bolts in the wall, same thing in reverse to attach the PHD. It goes on and off in minutes.

With your pole barn, I'd recommend this. Pave the surface with asphalt (cheaper than concrete) so that you can put all implements on dollies. It is so easy and fast when you can roll them. If water can blow in, crown or grade the surface just barely enough that water will flow back out and not stand on the floor. Make the roof support strong enough that you can mount a hoist in the center. If you have power, use elec., if not, use a chain hoist. Not only can you piggyback box blade on rc, you can lift rc, other stuff high enough to remove/sharpen blades; you can pull an engine if you need to rebuild it, etc. Being able to roll stuff around would mean that you could enclose 3 sides and put 1 large door on the leeward side. With it closed up and a solid surface, things would stay dry and there'd be no weeds for sure.

With all you've invested in this equipment, it will not be that much more to do this. The asphalt will cost a bit, but I built my dollies with scrap wood, a few screws, and cheap casters from Northern. The hoists were on sale at Harbor Freight; the chain hoist was $40 and the elec. $50 or so. When I was young, manhandling heavy stuff was kinda fun. In my 50's now, my back ain't so forgivin' any more (fingers either for that matter). The time and exertion saved with dollies on a smooth floor is a godsend.

Hope these thoughts help a little. Good Luck.
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#11  
THanks to everyone for all the comments and ideas.

Tom H. Thanks for the very detailed storage information. I know it takes time but I really appreciate all the help and great ideas.

Charles
 
/ Storing attachments #12  
Hi Charles,

Tom has described a real nice setup - especially for shared floorspace. I have a similar setup - but I don't have dollies. The barn has a clear 26' square bay on the lower level with a 12' wide roll-up door and concrete floor. I arrange all the implements around the outside of the "room". There's enough center space that the tractor will turn and back up to any of them for attachment. My toy list is something like yours - RM-990, 6' rotary, 7' sicklebar, auger, 7' snowblower, 11' backhoe, rake, back blade. I do leave the rake & blade outside during the summer to reduce the congestion.

The smooth floor makes all the difference. the woods will roll to the tractor, and everything else can be scooted one way or the other with a bar. A level smooth surface is 85% of aligning 3ph implements.

Take care, Dick B
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#13  
Thanks for the info. I now feel better about my mower situation. I was a little concerned about have a RM990 and a 6' Rotary Cutter. Seemed very close. But I wanted to finish mow my pasture of 7 acres even though it's not like a lawn and I have several field trails that need to be bushhogged 2-3 times per year. So these two units were what I thought would do the job the best. I will find out next week.

Thanks,

Charles
 
/ Storing attachments #14  
My comment would be to make it big enough so that you can back up to each implement and have enough room around the implements to hook them up. You might want to consider a long, narrow shed where all the implements are facing the same way so you can back one implement in, unhook it, and then move over enough to hook up the next one you need.

You have 7 implements listed and may add a couple more in the future so trying to "work around" them if they are not all in a row would be a hassle.

I would line all the implements up in a row then add room for 2 more and let that dictate the size if you have the land available. Wouldn't hurt to build it so it can be added on to later in case you want more than 2 more implements.

The other way would be to make 2 rows facing opposite directions, that would work the same way but you bet that whatever implement you want will be on the opposite side of the building from where you are!

I built a 10 X 16 shed for my riding mower and other lawn tools. Then I added a 10 X 16 lean-to on the back for the tractor. Then I bought more "stuff" so a couple of the implements sit outside in the weather but I am out of room to add on to the shed. You can never build too much storage space but you can sure build too little!

Next place I buy I think I will just have a 40 X 60 metal building put up. Maybe that will be enough space.

Bill Tolle
 
/ Storing attachments #15  
I keep my rototiller in the garage at the end wall with a tennis ball hanging from the light so my wife does not run into it with her Mini Cooper. I think the Cooper would not fare well in that collision!
The rotary mower I park under a large Doug Fir with a hard hat over the gear box.
Of course the Kubota stays in the heated & AC garage.
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#16  
So many good ideas, I may not sleep all night thinking about all my options....

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 
/ Storing attachments #17  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( So many good ideas, I may not sleep all night thinking about all my options....

/forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif )</font>

Got floodlights? Good grief man, let's get cracking on this project! You can have it 1/2 built by the time the sun comes up tomorrow /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Bill Tolle
 
/ Storing attachments
  • Thread Starter
#18  
Yes, 2pr of front and rear work lights.

What time will you be over?

/forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
/ Storing attachments #19  
Hi again Charles - the 6' rotary cutter is actually seldom used - the RM990 is so versatile and effective it gets used for most mowing projects. The rotary is good for occasionally reclaiming an area that has gotten brushed up. Also handy for the first pass on an unfamiliar lot, with FEL just a few inches off the ground feeling for surprises.

Bummer your RM990 is going to be late to the party. You'll just have to take a few more days off when it arrives !! /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif
 
/ Storing attachments #20  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( What time will you be over?

)</font>
We don't actually do the work, we just tell you how to do it and how to spend YOUR $$$$$$ /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
 

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