Stabilizer Bars?

[Fitzwaryn]

When your rear tires each go into separate dips, alternately, the three-point's load is literally thrown from one side to the other. I think the stabilizers should be built strong enough for that possibility. Few of us are operating on airport tarmacs or soccer fields.

LOL Tell me about it!

My front yard is an area that burned in a forest fire about 25 years ago. While they were fighting the fire they ran some seriously heavy equipment across the sandy soil cutting a firebreak about where the middle of my front yard is. There are some 2.5 ft deep trenches you can still see faint tread marks in from the dozers.

When I was bushhogging the front yard the brush was of course so thick that they were totally invisible. I KNEW they were there from walking the yard before but you could not see them from the tractor.

So the whole process was creeping along at the lowest speed with a foot poised by the brake and the clutch for when a front wheels started to drop.

And unfortunately, none of them were perpendicular to the yard sides they all ran at odd angles. lol

 

[Guesseral]

It just so happens that I asked these questions to my dealer about 2 weeks ago, because I was missing one of the spring snaps on the pin in one arm and I figured they will break sometime anyways. It seems I was doing it all wrong because I usually keep mine a little loose and not too snug. Wrong he told me that they were suppose to be tight. Oops! He also told me that when they break yea thats when they break he does not get the same ones for replacement. He gets the ones with the turn buckles because they are easier to get tight and easier to get because the newer models use that kind. I think he said they were about $50.00 per side which I thought was to high but he said that the ones for IH were more like $200.00 per side so I decided maybe 50 bucks wasn't all that bad! But still for what they are I think I could go to the hardware and make a reasonable facsimally for less that was just as stout or more.

 

[soulasphil]

In fact I think we are speaking about what my manual calls "sway links", stabilizer bars (red arrows) are what you use together with the normal three points to help handle cumbersome or top-heavy implements. I try to have them rather tight but they keep getting a little loose, which can be unpleasant with heavy equipment swinging from side to side, rocking the tractor.

 

[Short Game]

I broke the turnbuckle link on my Cub Cadet more times than I could count. I just kept welding the eye back onto the long turnbuckle screw until it was too short to work any more. Thankfully, it was the screw with the right hand threads. I chopped the end off the turnbuckle tube and welded a 1/2" N.C. coupling nut where the female metric threads had been. I welded the eye with the eyebolt onto a long N.C. 1/2" bolt and I never broke it again.

I have been spoiled by how easy the LS's links are to set, so when I break one of them, I'm going to build my own, and build them stronger. I have to go to the steel supply this week and I'll look to see what they have. I have some 1"X1" bar. I figure it will fit nicely into some 1 1/2" square tube. I'll drill it on the same pattern as the light ones and put some strong clevises on the ends.

 

[Fitzwaryn]

I spent some time looking at the stabilizer attachment points last night before pulling some stumps and it does look like it would be fairly simple to make some turnbuckle links or some adjustable chain ones.

Or even a couple of steel bars. Attach one to the arm, one to the chassis connector. A series of even holes drilled in them would allow a couple bolts to be put in to lock it's length.

Or the turnbuckle type. Have to go browse the hardware store and see what combination of pieces could be put together to make one.

 

[Short Game]

I change implements so often that I can't see myself going back to turnbuckles that I have to set and lock with wrenches. I have a bad lower back and the awkward positions I have to get into to access the stabilizer links and manipulate wrenches is a real pain in the... well, let's say, the sciatic nerve. The time I'll stand erect at the drill press will be worth it, when it comes to that. Until then, I'll try to make the original equipment links last as long as I can.

One note on the turnbuckle type stabilizer links: they are of the tube type, to keep from having the threads exposed inside the turnbuckle and to keep the threads clean and lubricated. While I was considering making my own when my old tractor's links were a problem, I noticed that the turnbuckles sold at hardware stores (as were the many I had gotten from garage sales and thrift stores) were open sided. My plan was to cut plates to cover the open sides of the turnbuckles and braze them on, making them into tube type units. Also, a locking nut has to be added to the right hand thread screw.

 

[Short Game]

In fact I think we are speaking about what my manual calls "sway links", stabilizer bars (red arrows) are what you use together with the normal three points to help handle cumbersome or top-heavy implements. I try to have them rather tight but they keep getting a little loose, which can be unpleasant with heavy equipment swinging from side to side, rocking the tractor.

Our LS manuals call them "stabilizers." The manual for my R4010 calls for a "swinging clearance" of "20~40mm (0.79~1.57 in.) left and right."

 

[kpbeddin]

I broke one of mine a few weeks ago. My dealer replaced both with a larger more heavy duty pair under warranty. As far as I know I had not hit anything, but had been using a 5 ft. bush hog. I think there may be an issue with undersizing on some models.

 

[204saskman]

I broke them both on my Montana/LS and i just built some new sways out of Harrow chain. I know the abuse this type of chain is made for. I called my dealer but they havent even paid me back for the last warranty item i sent in that i paid for. Kinda makes me mad but o well. Thats life

 

[Fitzwaryn]

I broke one of mine a few weeks ago. My dealer replaced both with a larger more heavy duty pair under warranty. As far as I know I had not hit anything, but had been using a 5 ft. bush hog. I think there may be an issue with undersizing on some models.

When I look at them vs the size and weight of the attachments hanging on the hitch it's easy to see that they are undersized in one sense. They are simply not capable of preventing hundreds of lbs of steel hanging 6 ft out in the air of swaying if you bump a tree or push too hard against brush.

On the other hand, I don't think they're intended for that but simply to prevent normal sway in the course of turns or other minor movement.