SSQA fork build

Mysfyt · Jan 4, 2016

For one of my winter projects, I decided to build a fork attachment for my tractor. Saved a set of forks off an old forklift that was junked and this will be the perfect use for them. I drew up the design on a 3D cad program, which will be my first time building something this way. I want to make the forks adjust using the 3rd function valve for my grapple. I thought this might be a fun project to watch as it comes together because it will require welding and machining, plus I'm sure I'll be asking for some opinions along the way.

I'm starting with the forks, cutting off the top supports to make way for the blocks that will slide on the top support bar. More pictures as I progress.

Fallon · Jan 4, 2016

How you adjusting 2 cylinders with a 3rd function? Have a diverter to switch between cylinders? If you plumb them in together one is likely to stick while the other moves, leaving your forks uncentered.

k0ua · Jan 4, 2016

Fallon said:
How you adjusting 2 cylinders with a 3rd function? Have a diverter to switch between cylinders? If you plumb them in together one is likely to stick while the other moves, leaving your forks uncentered.

You could put the one that moves first when it gets to where you want it up against an immovable object (tree, rock, neighbors car) then press the lever or button again so the other one will move where you want it.

Mysfyt · Jan 4, 2016

Fallon said:
How you adjusting 2 cylinders with a 3rd function? Have a diverter to switch between cylinders? If you plumb them in together one is likely to stick while the other moves, leaving your forks uncentered.

Good point. How do they do it on forklifts?

Fallon · Jan 4, 2016

Mysfyt said:
Good point. How do they do it on forklifts?

I'm somewhat guessing as I haven't looked at them to close, but..

A spool for each fork I believe if it has hydraulically adjustable forks. Either that or 1 cylinder to adjust a carriage that the forks hang on & another between the forks hanging on that carriage, which gives you side shift capability & the ability to change fork width. You could side shift with a cylinder per fork, but you'd need slack space under your load & it would be kind of ugly. Assuming using diverter, it just require 2 hands if you had a spool per fork. You would have to compensate for the fact one cylinder would be expanding & the other contracting (different rod vs cylinder end volumes) with corresponding different speeds & strength.

countrybumpkin · Jan 4, 2016

You could always use a cable or roller chain equalization system. Here is a pic of a single cylinder with cables to adjust the second fork

Jim Timber · Jan 4, 2016

I use a mallet. I don't grease my forks because they live outside for now. Grease would make things much easier. Hydraulics would too, but I don't think I'll be going that route any time soon.

One thing I wish I'd done differently, is made the SSQA on an angle to the back of the frame. It was my first SSQA mount I'd ever built, and I was going off prints off the web, so I was nervous enough about getting it wrong while my tractor's mount was 110 miles away and I couldn't test fit it, but it turned out fine. I just don't have as much tilt back at ground level as I would like. I do have a decent amount of fork truck driving in my background, so my old habits of setting a load against the frame when picking it by tilting it back before lifting it up don't quite work on the tractor, but it does a good job with holding loads just the same.

Fallon · Jan 4, 2016

Jim Timber said:
I use a mallet. I don't grease my forks because they live outside for now. Grease would make things much easier. Hydraulics would too, but I don't think I'll be going that route any time soon.

One thing I wish I'd done differently, is made the SSQA on an angle to the back of the frame. It was my first SSQA mount I'd ever built, and I was going off prints off the web, so I was nervous enough about getting it wrong while my tractor's mount was 110 miles away and I couldn't test fit it, but it turned out fine. I just don't have as much tilt back at ground level as I would like. I do have a decent amount of fork truck driving in my background, so my old habits of setting a load against the frame when picking it by tilting it back before lifting it up don't quite work on the tractor, but it does a good job with holding loads just the same.

My OEM Kubota SSQA gets the tips of my pallet forks about 4" off the ground when level tops. Just a fact of life with the way most tractor loaders are designed.

I've greased mine up even though they live outside, made a world of difference on how easy they are to adjust.

Mysfyt · Jan 5, 2016

countrybumpkin said:
You could always use a cable or roller chain equalization system. Here is a pic of a single cylinder with cables to adjust the second fork

Wow, this is really close to my design! I might have to take a serious look at changing my design to incorporate this. Did some research last night and it seems like a flow divider is what I need if I stay with my design. Anybody have any experience with these? What should I be looking at for this application?

Mysfyt · Jan 5, 2016

Started working on the blocks. They are out of 3" x 4" cold rolled rectangular (1018). I started by milling one of the band sawed sides flat and square, and the holes will be indexed off this side. This will also be the side to get welded to the forks to help with the final machining set up. My plan is to bore the holes about .030" under, weld them to the forks, and then do the final bore and ream on the vertical mill. I know the welding will distort the hole so this will make them round again. Notice in one of the pictures the groove for distributing grease as I plan to have a grease zerk on each of the blocks.

Jim Timber · Jan 5, 2016

Not worried about binding? 90% of the bandsaw sawmills on the market use a round tube on bar configuration for their clamping system and it's 100% based on binding from an off center load.

countrybumpkin · Jan 5, 2016

Mysfyt said:
Started working on the blocks. They are out of 3" x 4" cold rolled rectangular (1018). I started by milling one of the band sawed sides flat and square, and the holes will be indexed off this side. This will also be the side to get welded to the forks to help with the final machining set up. My plan is to bore the holes about .030" under, weld them to the forks, and then do the final bore and ream on the vertical mill. I know the welding will distort the hole so this will make them round again. Notice in one of the pictures the groove for distributing grease as I plan to have a grease zerk on each of the blocks.

Yeah i noticed how close in design it was too.

From your pics looks like your on your way.

Is that the best you can do though, i would have figured a hack saw , hand grinder, and a drill would have worked better.

JOKE!!

Fallon · Jan 5, 2016

That chain linkage would take care of synchronization issues & the need for multiple valves. It would eliminate the ability to side shift though, unless they were on a carriage that was moved by a separate cylinder.

Cool project though. I'd consider doing something cool like this, but the 1,000lbs lift capacity on my L3200 is already limited. The extra weight of the extra toys on-top of the couple hundred lbs for the forks would hurt to much. Maybe if I end up upgrading to a Kioti NX4510 HST cab, it has almost 3k lbs of lift capacity.

countrybumpkin · Jan 5, 2016

I have thought about converting mine over to hydro adjust , but no more than i adjust them i haven't devoted the time.

Mysfyt · Jan 5, 2016

Jim Timber said:
Not worried about binding? 90% of the bandsaw sawmills on the market use a round tube on bar configuration for their clamping system and it's 100% based on binding from an off center load.

Yes, I am worried about binding. I am seriously considering changing my design to to the single cylinder with chain like the one countrybumpkin posted. Changing my design in the middle of a build is kind of tradition with me anyway! I already have some chain on a shelf somewhere and the idlers would be a nice lathe project.

Mysfyt · Jan 5, 2016

countrybumpkin said:
Yeah i noticed how close in design it was too.

From your pics looks like your on your way.

Is that the best you can do though, i would have figured a hack saw , hand grinder, and a drill would have worked better. JOKE!!

Don't forget the big sledge! Always on standby.:laughing:

Jim Timber · Jan 5, 2016

Mysfyt said:
Don't forget the big sledge! Always on standby.:laughing:

The angle on the top outside edge of the fork mounts is what holds mine up. I also had a little warpage between the bottom rail and top rail, so there's not as much slop in that connection as designed (my bottom cross tube is thin so the heat sucked it in more than I had expected it would). So there's a tighter fit front to back on the bottom rail which holds the top rail in firm contact with the fork brackets. Then the paint on both surfaces doesn't help anything either.

I can still move them with a light tapping of the mallet, but they seem to twist sideways and bite into those two rails if I try doing it by hand.

If I find I need to move them more than I have so far, then I'll probably cut the bottom bar off and replace it, or just grind it back to relieve the friction.

Mysfyt · Jan 5, 2016

Jim Timber said:
The angle on the top outside edge of the fork mounts is what holds mine up. I also had a little warpage between the bottom rail and top rail, so there's not as much slop in that connection as designed (my bottom cross tube is thin so the heat sucked it in more than I had expected it would). So there's a tighter fit front to back on the bottom rail which holds the top rail in firm contact with the fork brackets. Then the paint on both surfaces doesn't help anything either.
I can still move them with a light tapping of the mallet, but they seem to twist sideways and bite into those two rails if I try doing it by hand.

If I find I need to move them more than I have so far, then I'll probably cut the bottom bar off and replace
it, or just grind it back to relieve the friction.

If you have a torch you can heat shrink it back to fairly straight. A lot easier than grinding or replacing and would only take 15-20 minutes. Nice tractor, BTW.

Jim Timber · Jan 5, 2016

Cutting it out would be pretty quick with the plasma cutter, and adding a retaining strap on top of the one that's too far back would likely fix the issue entirely. Or maybe just cutting a chamfer on the bottom edge would do it. I'll try grease before I go that far. Flame shrinking would possibly work, but would take a lot longer. A little tap with the mallet I keep handy for driving wedges moves it easy enough for now.

And thanks! That thing changed my life.