Spline lube?

[CalG]

I'm sure this topic has come up, but... maybe I was unlucky with the search terms.

The mid pto's and FWD spline shafts don't move around much, don't have grease fittings, and don't there fore, get regular lubrication service.

What the best lube? Moly fortified grease has been my go to, but I've recently pulled down the front axle drive on one of my tractors, and the spline couplings look mighty dry! (still in good shape )

Mean while, the engine mounted drive on my neighbor's Kabota B7100 stripped out completely, and that's a tough spline to match (availability)

What's in your grease gun?

 

[ptsg]

On those splines that will barely move, I just use high temp copper grease, mostly because I have quite a bit around. Seems to last a long time. Otherwise, I would probably just use anti seize or something similar.

I too stripped the splines on the U-joint for the front axle on a Kubota B7000. Mostly caused by driving on hard surfaces with 4WD engaged. It was just a short distance in between orchards but still caused damage over time. I changed my behavior after that repair.

By the way, and sorry for the off topic, did you end up finding a front axle housing for the Hurlimann?

 

[tomplum]

Many spline applications do spec moly lube. The thing is you can get real pasty stuff that is thick and hard to get off vs basically like a #2 with some added moly to it. Think like anti seize paste that is hard to get off.

 

[Wagtail]

Honestly, if it moves but doesn't have a grease nipple, I use a lanolin-based spray.

 

[sixdogs]

What works for me is spray oil in a can. I had an issue with moly grease in that it hardened up on me. My parts guy said it was because it is a clay based grease and it will harden up in time. So, the spray grease works fine.

In the grease gun, I've now switched to Deere poly grease. Works great and makes the loader feel tight as new. So for the PTO shaft fitting and really all fittings, that's what I use.

 

[Hiptfarms]

Plus 1 on the anti-sieze.

 

[tomplum]

Interesting. I've not seen clay based anything besides Bentonite. That spray Fluid Film is nice stuff. Like it a lot. Anti seize is great, but curses if it gets on anything else.

 

[CalG]

On those splines that will barely move, I just use high temp copper grease, mostly because I have quite a bit around. Seems to last a long time. Otherwise, I would probably just use anti seize or something similar.

I too stripped the splines on the U-joint for the front axle on a Kubota B7000. Mostly caused by driving on hard surfaces with 4WD engaged. It was just a short distance in between orchards but still caused damage over time. I changed my behavior after that repair.

By the way, and sorry for the off topic, did you end up finding a front axle housing for the Hurlimann?

Oh Yes, The axle housing arrived in good time,and is sitting on the lift table with all the pins and studs installed.

There was some difficulty discovered with the differential ring gear however. all the cap screws had loosened in the housing and spoiled the threads in the cast iron. That issue could have, and would have been catastrophic! but caught due to the calamity of a broken axle!

The replacement is on order. With a differential rebuild awaiting.
"It's only money" ;-)

 

[CalG]

Honestly, if it moves but doesn't have a grease nipple, I use a lanolin-based spray.

The "sheep skin" lubricants are fine if you can refresh them.

These front wheel drive shafts are hidden behind protective shield plates.

It's like trying to lube the splines on the clutch and throw out. Out of sight, out of reach....

 

[sixdogs]

What works for me is spray oil in a can. I had an issue with moly grease in that it hardened up on me. My parts guy said it was because it is a clay based grease and it will harden up in time. So, the spray grease works fine.

In the grease gun, I've now switched to Deere poly grease. Works great and makes the loader feel tight as new. So for the PTO shaft fitting and really all fittings, that's what I use.

Interesting. I've not seen clay based anything besides Bentonite. That spray Fluid Film is nice stuff. Like it a lot. Anti seize is great, but curses if it gets on anything else.

That's what my experienced parts guy told me when I had a problem with hardened grease. I didn't verify because he is so wise and careful. My grease was moly grease and it had definitely hardened up and was a problem. That's when I switched to spray oil on those fine splines and also switched to poly grease for my general use.

EDIT--my quick check shows this is not an easy topic since it looks like lots of greases can have clay added as a thickener while others are clay based and presumably have a higher level of clay. It looks like clay can be anywhere and likely vary from product to product.

 

[nyone]

We always use to use "black bear" grease on splines at my last heavy equipment job. The stuff is thick and dosnt move much. I wouldn't use normal grease as it can attract dirt wearing your splines more.

 

[oosik]

Honestly - keeping it clean and greased with something is more important than what type of grease. Even the very best grease will fail given enough time. I don't think there a product that is - "grease once and forget".

 

[Tripak Vic]

I'm sure this topic has come up, but... maybe I was unlucky with the search terms.

The mid pto's and FWD spline shafts don't move around much, don't have grease fittings, and don't there fore, get regular lubrication service.

What the best lube? Moly fortified grease has been my go to, but I've recently pulled down the front axle drive on one of my tractors, and the spline couplings look mighty dry! (still in good shape )

Mean while, the engine mounted drive on my neighbor's Kabota B7100 stripped out completely, and that's a tough spline to match (availability)

What's in your grease gun?

Self serving since I am the Tripak mfg rep, but our Deep Blue chain conditioner is great for open splines on PTOs and such. Our grease will keep internal units coated for an extended time and nothing will stick to the splines. Check Fastenal or your local farm store to see if they have it.

 

[5030]

I use the same grease on both my pto stubs that I grease the tractors with but when not in use, they stay covered with a hard plastic slip on sleeve. Kubota has them and they will fit any tractor with a 6 spline or 21 spline pto stub and they are dirt cheap too. Think I paid 4 bucks each.

 

[DaveMueller]

I'm a fan of the liquid waxes for mountain bike chains. They don't pick up dirt like oil or grease based products.

Back to the shadows...

 

[SmallChange]

On a spline that doesn't move much, like the FWD one, how do you get grease or lube into it in the first place? You're not disassembling it to lube it, are you? Just squirting what you can in at the end of the sleeve?

 

[ptsg]

On a spline that doesn't move much, like the FWD one, how do you get grease or lube into it in the first place? You're not disassembling it to lube it, are you? Just squirting what you can in at the end of the sleeve?

I do on mine. It's as simple as sliding the cover backwards for the front one and remove the cover plate for the other one, hammer the roll pin out and slide the coupler backwards, then apply grease, slide it back and forth a couple times and put everything back together.

I only do this every 200 or 300 hours of use. Depends on the mood during maintenance.

 

[sixdogs]

I spray oil on shaft and yoke like all others, but more important disconnect the shaft right after done using when things are warmed up and easy to separate. It's so much easier to get apart this way.

Maybe I wipe clean and oil and then it goes together easily next time I use it. After a couple times like this, the gunk is wiped off and surfaces clean and easy to put together.

On front splines I spray thin oil sometimes before use. Occasionally I slide under when hot from use, brush off with an old toothbrush as best as I can and then spray light oil and moly grease again. In decades of experience, my splined things are always in excellent condition.

 

[5030]

I do on mine. It's as simple as sliding the cover backwards for the front one and remove the cover plate for the other one, hammer the roll pin out and slide the coupler backwards, then apply grease, slide it back and forth a couple times and put everything back together.

I only do this every 200 or 300 hours of use. Depends on the mood during maintenance.

Which is exactly what Kubota spells out in their shop manual for the front segmented drive shaft for the FWA.