Specs for new 3320

[foggy1111]

I have been playing with the JD Configurator....and had a few questions to get the right specs. I'm hoping someone can help along with the right stuff for an open station 3320 tractor with a 300 CX Loader with HD 61" bucket.

1. Hydraulics. I want one pair of remotes at the rear and also wanted a diverter set-up to operate a bucket grapple. I am a bit confused with this....what do I specify?.. and what will this cost me? (I plan to add the Markham bucket grapple and Markham tooth bar to the JD 61" heavy duty bucket)
a. Will I need to add lines and hoses to get the hydraulics plumbed to the front for the grapple?

2. ROPS Height. Can I get under an 8' high (96") door without folding the ROPS?

3. I want R1 tires. What is the max width they can be set to? (I like stability :thumbsup

4. Will I be happy with telescoping draft links? (I currently am happy with my PATS) I see allot of guys going with I Match....but I have too many implements that don't seem to fit the quick hitches...and don't think I want to convert 'em to fit I Match. (I tried to like the HF hitch :confused2

Other options I plan to have added are Light brush guards, cruise / load match, deluxe hood guard (and dealer installed rim guard in rears). I typically use a box blade or implement for ballast....so I will deduct the ballast box.

Any other equipment suggestions?

 

[RollTideRam]

I have the 3rd scv on my 3320 and the diverter (4 and 5) scv. I use the 3rd for my Millonzi grapple. It is lever operated and the lever is a few inches away from the joystick. I flip a switch for the diverter and use the joystick to operate my ccm hydraulic toplink. I have not used the number 5 scv yet. With the hydraulic toplink and Pats easy change, I hook up everthing pretty easy. Don't forget to add the hydraulic lines to the front of the loader. JC

 

[radman1]

I would strongly recommend getting the skid steer carrier attachment. Then you can use any skid steer grapple, pallet forks, hydraulic auger ect. If you get the carrier attachment, then order a JD foundry skid steer bucket. The foundry buckets are designed for tough digging with skid steers. You will never bow or bend one. Most CUT dealers can order the foundry bucket if they sell JD skid steers. It is much more HD than the hd JD bucket and costs about the same. The foundry bucket will have dimensions similar to a skid steer bucket in height and length. I use a 72" foundry bucket on my JD 4520.

JD has an optional 3rd function hydraulic line and hoses. This is hoses and hardlines that will go to the front of the FEL and run your grapple. Cost is $351 on the configurator. This will plug right into your rear SVC outlet. Just unplug when you want to use the rear outlets for something else. The other option is just buy a set of hoses to run from the rear SVC to the front. Much cheaper but not as clean or nice of a set up.

IMHO, if you have Pat's or quick hitch, telescopic link arms are not necessary. If you later decide you want them, just order later. Easy to change out.

Max width with R1 tires is 68.4". Minimum is 52.4". If you plan on going max width, then get the 72" or similar width bucket.

Height with R1 tires and folding rops is 93.3".

 

[AKfish]

Do you think that you will ever need to use both the FEL mounted 3rd function (grapple use) and the rear mounted 3rd SCV (hydraulic top link, etc.) at the same time?

If you think that might be something to plan for with future projects and/or use with the 3320 - the OEM electric diverter from Deere is the cleanest way to go - IMO.

That way, you would have joystick control of the 3rd function (grapple) on your FEL and you would also have joystick control of the rear outlet that could manage your hyd top link, etc. Flipping a switch on the fender next to the joystick will alternate hyd functions between the grapple and rear hyd SCV (2 function) and the normal loader functions (2 functions - curl-dump and raise-lower/lift).

AKfish

 

[foggy1111]

Hmmmm.....lots of good advice posted above. I definitely have some things to think about and likely need to make a trip to a larger JD store to look a bit. It's always easier after seeing the application.

I really wanted to keep my bucket width down (to 62") but also like having the wide rear wheel setting. I fear too much bucket width around my wooded property. I'm a bit torn....but this will sort out.

I have seen those skid steer "foundry" buckets in a few photos.....seem to be quite a bit longer along the bottom, but not as high at the back IIRC. Not sure how that will work with a grapple or dirt.

I like the sound of the JD hydraulic lines neatly along the loader frame...and at the price above that seems a "given". I need to get decided if I want to go with a dedicated grapple line separate from my rear hydraulics. A hydraulic top link would sure be nice....but where does it end? :confused2:

 

[foggy1111]

AKFish....thanks for posting that info. I think its getting a little clearer how the electric diverter switch would work. It's likely the way I will go. I need to compare the costs of the two methods.......and think on the hydraulic top link.

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Remember if you go with the skid steer adapter & foundry bucket as radman1 has mentioned, this additional weight will decrease your lift capacity by the weight of the given adapters/attachments. This would not be a big deal on the 4x20 series machines as they have a much higher lifting capacity, however on the 3x20's every little bit helps. I have both the 5' HD bucket and the 6' HD bucket, as well as a set of HLA forks for the regular JD quick attach set-up; I use the 6' for doing gravel work/snow removal & I use the 5' for getting around in the woods a little better. Ask your dealer if they have any used buckets on the lot, sometimes you get lucky. Just remember to get the bolt on cutting edge for the HD bucket too, this will stiffen it up quite a bit.

 

[RollTideRam]

I have the 6' HD bucket and the Deere toothbar. I got the toothbar cheaper than I could order a Markham. If I ever do it again, I may order the Markham. The deere toothbar is very heavy and the teeth are not sharp, so it is hard to cut roots. I am happy with the deere quick attach. I have local made forks and a grapple made to fit the deere system. Skid steer equipment is too heavy for a 3320 to me. JC

 

[DanD78]

You might consider adding the power beyond kit. When I ordered mine I got the 3rd function ran to the end of the bucket bacause I wanted a 4in1 and wanted to run my log splitter off the power beyond. I have also added a valve and made my own TNT set up fed from the power beyond ports. I kind of like it better than if I hand bought the rear remotes ran off the loader lever. If you are looking back and need to make adjustments the lever is hard to reach with out turning around or using your left hand.

I did get the 5' Frontier 4in1 and love it. I think a 6' bucket would be a little awkword.

Dan

 

[AKfish]

Remember if you go with the skid steer adapter & foundry bucket as radman1 has mentioned, this additional weight will decrease your lift capacity by the weight of the given adapters/attachments. Just remember to get the bolt on cutting edge for the HD bucket too, this will stiffen it up quite a bit.

True enough... however, when you work thru the Deere configurator; the HD bucket is available for the SS mounts. The weight of the mounts is negligible - even for the 300CX - likely 75lbs or less (35lb per boom mast end).

And of course, the JD heavy duty bucket is not that big a weight penalty that it's not worth it by the value of having a bucket that you won't destroy in the first year of use.

I agree that the SS foundry bucket is a bit extreme for the lifting capacity of the 300CX, though.

The cutting edge is a good investment, too - IMO.

Bought a rototiller from a guy that has the JD QA system on his 400X loader. Needed to drop the bucket and use his forks to load the tiller and then switch the attachments back again - PITA - IMO.

Getting the pin to line up with the hole and then pulling the pin and then trying to get the pin back in the hole... Well, the whole pin deal is cludgey when compared to the SS system.

The power beyond circuit is very useful and can be configured to do a number of things for your tractor. And if you ever want a backhoe - gotta have it! But... it's a reasonably straight forward add-on that you could do later if need be. The same is more or less true for the 3rd rear-mount SCV, too. If you want/need the rear SCV later on - it's a reasonable DIY project.

A later add-on electric diverter is a bit more of a challange (there's some recent threads on this in the Owner's - Operating) and requires some specialty wrenches that are not cheap!!

Another attachment that I recommend with a new tractor package is a set of forks. I use mine quite a bit and find more uses all the time.

AKfish

 

[foggy1111]

It seems to me that the foundry bucket may be a little over-the-top for my purposes. I like that HD bucket....and rather than the cutting edge....the tooth bar would serve to stiffen the bucket lip. Then too I may add an angle along the top for my hooks and add the grapple. The weight is going to add up.

I would like to keep the bucket at 62" wide for use in the woods. (or, maybe two buckets is the answer if I need 'em?) Its not real critical for most of my work to have the bucket wider than the tractor (with the wide wheel setting)....still, I know its the right thing.

Another possibility is a dedicated root rake with a grapple set up....and a materials bucket. More reading to do.....and pricing. :confused2:

I think I am clearer on the hydraulic needs for now. Thanks for all the inputs.....I need to go looking at these set-ups.

Foggy (aka dreamer)

 

[RollTideRam]

Bought a rototiller from a guy that has the JD QA system on his 400X loader. Needed to drop the bucket and use his forks to load the tiller and then switch the attachments back again - PITA - IMO.





Another attachment that I recommend with a new tractor package is a set of forks. I use mine quite a bit and find more uses all the time.

AKfish

I don' seem to have problems with the JD QA. I raise the loader(mainly so I don't have to reach to the ground) get off tractor, pull a pin from each side. Then get on tractor and drop bucket, pick up the forks (dump with joystick, so I grap forks with the top cuff) and then curl back the loader. The pins go right in, then get off and put the snap pins in. Most companies offer attachments with the JD style QA. JC

 

[AKfish]

I don' seem to have problems with the JD QA. I raise the loader(mainly so I don't have to reach to the ground) get off tractor, pull a pin from each side. Then get on tractor and drop bucket, pick up the forks (dump with joystick, so I grap forks with the top cuff) and then curl back the loader. The pins go right in, then get off and put the snap pins in. Most companies offer attachments with the JD style QA. JC

I'm sure it gets easier the more you use it... coming from a SS with the lever up - lever down system; it was more of a wrangle with the pins than lifting a lever!

AKfish

 

[radman1]

Hmmmm.....lots of good advice posted above. I definitely have some things to think about and likely need to make a trip to a larger JD store to look a bit. It's always easier after seeing the application.

I really wanted to keep my bucket width down (to 62") but also like having the wide rear wheel setting. I fear too much bucket width around my wooded property. I'm a bit torn....but this will sort out.

I have seen those skid steer "foundry" buckets in a few photos.....seem to be quite a bit longer along the bottom, but not as high at the back IIRC. Not sure how that will work with a grapple or dirt.

I like the sound of the JD hydraulic lines neatly along the loader frame...and at the price above that seems a "given". I need to get decided if I want to go with a dedicated grapple line separate from my rear hydraulics. A hydraulic top link would sure be nice....but where does it end? :confused2:

The foundry bucket does not have a longer bottom compared to standard JD bucket and the back is nearly the same height. A low profile skid steer bucket would have a long front and shorter back than the foundry bucket. Is that what you saw? I believe the foundry bucket weighs about 75# more than the JD HD bucket. Not a big effect on lift capacity. A low profile bucket would not work well on a CUT. http://www.deere.com/en_US/cfd/cons...kidsteer_attachments/media/pdfs/DKABKTCWP.pdf
Do not get the utility bucket, they are really big.

The diverter switch to make the joystick run 2 rear hydraulics is an option to run the grapple on the bucket. However, I will cost 2-3x's more that just the rear single valve. Also, it is much easier to run the grapple from the single lever hydraulic control lever. Otherwise you will be constantly flipping the diverter switch to run the grapple, switch back to run the loader and bucket, switch it again..... I have both the diverter switch and single rear outlet for a total of 3 rear hydraulics. It is much easier and less complicated to use the single rear outlet with it's single lever rather than using the diverter switch to run a grapple, hydraulic auger, ect.

If you plan on setting the wheels at the widest, you will be much happier in the long term with a bucket that is at least as wide as the tires. The 3000 series are not good on hill sides with the tires set narrow and feel tippy.

 

[foggy1111]

I found a 66" wide "foundry bucket" in the JD configurator (14.4 cu ft). It is pre-drilled for a tooth bar or alternately a bucket edge (but not both). They also have a 66" tooth bar listed for this bucket which seems fairly priced and looks good. This may prove to be an ideal all-around compromise for my operation in the "woods"....as I want to keep the bucket size down and the tread width up to max bucket width for stability. :confused2:

This "foundry" bucket actually costs less than the HD 61" bucket. Seems like a good compromise size for this tractor.....but either bucket would work. It may come down to which bucket is better equipped to handle a bucket grapple......as I don't think I want the expense or hassle of dealing with two bucket set-ups. (The foundry bucket top looks different than the HD bucket.)

I also don't think I want to invest in Skid Steer attachment as I don't foresee my needs for such.....given the extra cost. (I gotta draw the line somewhere.) If I were a contractor I would be on it in a heartbeat.

With the 8 position wheels that come with the R1's I am hopeful the wheel settings would allow the bucket to be just a smidge wider than the tire width. I need to find those settings.....somewhere.....gotta check the operator manual next. Also I have 5' foot implements....so I want to keep the wheel/tire settings to about 60"....I think.

I did find the hydraulic lines to run to the front of the loader.....nice. :thumbsup:

The plot thickens.....as I do my homework.

Any thoughts on this bucket set-up for a 3320?

 

[radman1]

A bolt on bucket edge is typically for protection of the bucket lip against wear. If the bolt on edge wears badly, it is easily replaced. Personally, almost all CUT's never see enough FEL use to ever wear out the lip of a bucket. Maybe someone doing snow removal on cement could wear out a lip on a CUT FEL. A bucket edge does give some extra strength to the lip but the foundry bucket is more HD and IMHO does not need the bolt on edge for strength.
I have used both tooth bars and those with individual teeth bolted directly to the bucket edge. The tooth bars result in an overall thicker edge (bucket lip, thickness of tooth bar and bottom of tooth extends below bucket). Therefore, toothbars do not dig as well as teeth directly bolted to the lip. IMO, tooth bars may take 25% more effort to dig compared to direct bolt on teeth. (seat of the pants measurement ) But, a toothbar still digs much better than a smooth bucket. If you are planning to leave the tooth bar on most of the time, consider getting direct bolt on teeth to the bucket lip. Direct bolt on teeth should also be cheaper than a bar. It is still easy to back blade with a toothed bucket, especially if the teeth are flush with the bottom of the bucket. A bolt on tooth bucket will also act like a smooth bucket if the teeth are flat to the ground. A tooth bar bucket will not perform like a smooth bucket because of the thicker front edge.

The JD foundry bucket has a thicker top edge. JD may make a bolt on grapple for the foundry but I do not know. Bobcat does have a bolt on grapple for their regular buckets. Maybe JD does? JD does have a grapple fork bucket and maybe that could fit on a foundry bucket? I had foundry buckets on both my 3720 (66") and 4520 (72"). Loved them. It was a recommendation by a fellow TBNer and I am passing it on.

Really consider the JD skid steer carrier attachment. In the long run it maybe cheaper. The foundry bucket is cheaper than the JD HD bucket and will save some money. If you ever plan to get forks, the JD CUT forks will cost much more than a new, similar skid steer type forks. Easy to find good used skid steer forks and save a lot of $$. You will almost never find a pair of used JD CUT forks. The amount of $$ saved by buying skid steer forks will pay for the skid steer carrier attachment. I find forks almost as useful as a bucket.

Tire width. I owned a JD 3720 with cab and R4 tires. Set to their widest at 59"s. I had 2 CUTs prior to that one. That was a scary tractor on hill sides. 5 minutes after I bought it new, I tried a little digging on a dried up pond. I was on a mild slope, was digging and spun the down side tire deeper. No rear ballast or weights. I thought it was very close to tipping. Sphincter was tightened to maximum. I think because the bucket had dirt in it and was on the ground may have been the only reason it didn't tip. I did not feel I could raise the bucket at all. I did lower the bucket and raise the front end slightly to put more weight on the rear, used the bucket to push and managed to slowly back out of a bad situation. The 3000 series demands ballast in the rear (in tires, wheel weight, or 3pt attachment) to be safe and I feel more width in the rear. I now have a JD 4520 with identical cab. It sits higher but has R1 tires set at 71-72" and about 440 lbs of rear rim weights. It feels 3x more stable than the 3720 despite being taller. Long story short, really consider setting the tires wider than 60".

 

[AKfish]

The diverter switch to make the joystick run 2 rear hydraulics is an option to run the grapple on the bucket. However, I will cost 2-3x's more that just the rear single valve. Also, it is much easier to run the grapple from the single lever hydraulic control lever. Otherwise you will be constantly flipping the diverter switch to run the grapple, switch back to run the loader and bucket, switch it again..... I have both the diverter switch and single rear outlet for a total of 3 rear hydraulics. It is much easier and less complicated to use the single rear outlet with it's single lever rather than using the diverter switch to run a grapple, hydraulic auger, ect.

Switching the diverter back and forth can be irksome - however, reaching for the lever (have to pull your hand off the joystick) constantly and back to the joystick is irksome as well...

What I like about using the loader with the grapple function on the joystick (no lever) is you can push into a pile of branches, logs, etc. and curl, lift and clamp the grapple without leaving the joystick. It's one fluid motion of "grabbing a big mouthful" and curling and lifting with the tractor always in motions forward and reverse. Can't do that if you're reaching for the lever..

I've used both, too - and have the diverter with 3 outlets currently on my 110.

What's worse; however, is using the grapple and needing to use the rear SCV at the same time. Pretty hard to do that without a diverter...

Yep... costs more but it gives you alot more flexibility to use your tractor with additional implements, too.

The best of all worlds would to be have additional rear SCV's WITHOUT having to have an electric diverter at all -- like the bigger Ag machines! Too bad Deere hasn't gone that route with the 3-4000 series machines.

AKfish

 

[radman1]

Switching the diverter back and forth can be irksome - however, reaching for the lever (have to pull your hand off the joystick) constantly and back to the joystick is irksome as well...

What I like about using the loader with the grapple function on the joystick (no lever) is you can push into a pile of branches, logs, etc. and curl, lift and clamp the grapple without leaving the joystick. It's one fluid motion of "grabbing a big mouthful" and curling and lifting with the tractor always in motions forward and reverse. Can't do that if you're reaching for the lever..

I've used both, too - and have the diverter with 3 outlets currently on my 110.

What's worse; however, is using the grapple and needing to use the rear SCV at the same time. Pretty hard to do that without a diverter...

Yep... costs more but it gives you alot more flexibility to use your tractor with additional implements, too.

The best of all worlds would to be have additional rear SCV's WITHOUT having to have an electric diverter at all -- like the bigger Ag machines! Too bad Deere hasn't gone that route with the 3-4000 series machines.

AKfish

I agree. Switch for grapple on the joystick is the best option but no OEM JD option than I am aware of.

 

[AKfish]

That's what I have OEM on the 110. Rocker switch at the top of the joystick handle. Up for grapple open and down for grapple closed. Of course, you have to activate the diverter first with a toggle switch and note whether the hyd functions are front or rear.

How would the 3rd outlet for the FEL be activated open and closed after the you toggle the diverter on for front use?

AKfish

 

[foggy1111]

That's what I have OEM on the 110. Rocker switch at the top of the joystick handle. Up for grapple open and down for grapple closed. Of course, you have to activate the diverter first with a toggle switch and note whether the hyd functions are front or rear.

How would the 3rd outlet for the FEL be activated open and closed after the you toggle the diverter on for front use?

AKfish

This is what I am wondering too. About the time I think I understand the hydraulic options, valves, plumbing, and switch functions....someone adds another twist to the plot. :confused2:

I don't think John Deere does a very good job of describing the availability or operation of the hydraulics. Of course I don't use these hydraulic terms everyday. :laughing: