Some tractor's options

[Texasmark]

I guess the model numbers relate to PTO HP. To me the 85 would be more than plenty especially with 4wd. With 4wd you could do a heck of a lot of work with that many ponies. I used to have a JD 4010 which was around 70 PTO hp 2wd and easily unloaded 5x6 round bales stacked 2 high on a semi trailer. With 85 acres you could operate some quite large implements with that hp, especially in 4wd which I will never be without once owning my first. Small squares with that machine will be WAY overkill and may wind up being a hindrance.

Get a fast removable loader which has a bucket to loader relationship setup on Bobcat designs. 2 easily operated levers and the bucket is on or off. Then get a hay spike (about $200) for your round bales. Much easier in my opinion than a grapple and you will NEVER have a bale roll back over the operator's station. However, if you are going to move a lot of logs, you might want a grapple.

Self leveling bucket, you bet.

Nothing wrong with Firestone tractor tires and R1 for me as in the mud you need the tread and self cleaning ability. Only place I would run R4 industrial would be mowing or on a relative hard or dry surface. Radials to me are overkill for what you said you were going to do.

Size the bucket to fit the tractor. For that large of a tractor go with the big one especially with a 4wd front end under it. Rule of thumb around here is that the bucket needs to span the tread width.

Yes on loading the rears. Helps on loader operations and lowers the CG for any slope mowing you may do.

I don't know how wide is wide on the wide wheel option, but just like duals, the wider, the larger turn you have to make to keep them out of the implement's tongue. Also, when using your bucket for things like driveway repair or excavation, as I said you want the bucket to span the rubber foot print. Oh with respect to rocking your driveway, moving forward with a FEL bucket tilted just past vertical can do one sweet job of laying out a sweet looking driveway. Hands down better than a box blade or scraper, hydraulic or not. Reason is the tractor is running on the smoothed out material, not the rough piles. Does make a difference.

Yes on 3 remotes. Never have enough, especially with a hydraulic 3rd member and something like a MOCO where you need another for height and a 3rd for azimuth. Yeah I know the MOCO is a drag implement, but once you hook up your hydraulic 3rd, you just leave it be.

I have 3 ranges and 4 gears on my Branson with shuttle shifter and I would recommend a shuttle for any kind of close in work. I also have a creep selector that cuts the speed of whichever gear in half giving me 24 F. I think in 7 years I only used the creep once and you can not use it under all conditions. So for me, just 12 F would have been plenty.

You didn't mention a cab. The Branson is my first cab tractor and I love it. 2 reasons. It has it's own environment and it keeps the dust out of my lungs, both problems with open stations. Take that $6k you were looking at with the larger tractor and put it in a cab. You won't regret it, especially as you get older.

References: My reply is based upon my experiences of farming over 30+ years operating in less than 100 acres and max tractor hp of 100.

Hope this helps,
Mark

 

[MtnViewRanch]

I did tell you, Brian, and you solved my problem. I returned the cylinder and you welded a Cat 2 rod on the barrel. You also rotated it 90 per my request because when located on the side, the upper link nuts hit the side port 90 degree fitting when the 3 point was shifted right to get extra back blade extension and the side tilt was down to tilt the blade for ditching. I drilled out the holes in the brackets on the tractor so I could install a Cat 2 pin instead of sleeving the Cat 1 so with the beefed up mounting and ports on top I've had no problems. Great service and many thanks to you - I have given several recommendations when people have asked where to get their Top 'N Tilt from.
.

I thought that I remembered these fixes, but I guess not. Thanks for clearing it up for me. :thumbsup:

 

[MHarryE]

If radials are overkill, have you used a tractor with radials, similar in size to a bias ply equipped tractor? Our 6230 with radials is like having an entirely different sized tractor compared to the 6210 with bias tires we traded in. Our first tractor with radials did away with our ever mounting duals for spring work again they make such a big difference.

 

[Texasmark]

If radials are overkill,

My comment: "Radials to me are overkill for what you said you were going to do." Personal opinion and I felt that at 85 hp he was already over what he needed. Could put the money into something he needed. Have no problems with the style.

Mark

 

[nwind]

Thanks again guys with all of your feedback.

I guess that I'm going to go with the options below:

4WD M9960HDCC12 tractor with 12 gears (cab version with heat, A/C, rear wiper & rear defrost).

M36 self-levelling loader.

1. Radial Mitas tires (not loaded). 12.4R24 (320/85R24) & 18.4R30 (460/85R30). Make no sense to add radial tires since I'll loose they advantages over the bias tires.

2. Cast centres.

3. Fender kit & fender bracket kit.

4. Grill guard/Weight frame combo (part of the M36 loader kit).

5. Two extra rear remotes with float function. Total 3 (1 deterrent & 2 w. float)

6. Loader soft-drive

7. Electric ON/OFF for the soft drive

8. 3rd FEL function

9. 82 bucket w. welded hooks.

10. Block heater

11. Radio/Weather band/MP3 Input

Implements/attachments

1. Palet forks (Horst HLA HD42)

2. Bale spear (Horst HLA DE5539)

3. Manure forks/grapple (Horst HLA MFE84GR72)

4. Bush cutter (Landpride RCF2084 Rotary mover)

5. Snow pusher (Landpride SSP1596 8') probably later

6. Box scraper/blade (Landpride BB2584) probably later too

7. PTO hole digger (Landpride PD35-31 with radial pin driveline & 9" auger)

In case I'll see necessity to add an extra weight for the FEL work I can do it later either with the wheel weights or just a ballast box.

 

[TripleR]

Overall sounds pretty darned good, but I have a Land Pride BB2584 and really wouldn't recommend it on a tractor that big. We only use mine on the M8540 for ballast as we've added rail road tracks for weight. I don't think it will hold up to heavy use without damage. We use an HR3584 and I know many people can't or won't spend the money for one, I would want something stronger than the BB2584.

Just my :2cents:

 

[nwind]

Overall sounds pretty darned good, but I have a Land Pride BB2584 and really wouldn't recommend it on a tractor that big. We only use mine on the M8540 for ballast as we've added rail road tracks for weight. I don't think it will hold up to heavy use without damage. We use an HR3584 and I know many people can't or won't spend the money for one, I would want something stronger than the BB2584.

Just my :2cents:

Thank for your opinion. I'll keep it in mind. I'm not planning to use it for heavy work but better have reliable equipment for sure
Not sure that I'm going to buy it right now anyway.

 

[wmonroe]

That will be a very nice tractor. For the implements I would shop around for the best prices as Titan seems to have a good price on pallet forks and has a bale spear that can be added onto the pallet fork frame and there are good options for the other implements you listed also. If you are financing them into the deal then that's a different story.

 

[nwind]

I'm trying to finance them on the deal. Landpride will go to Kubota's 60 month naturally (Landpride only) and Horst (loader attachments) is a local manufacturer with a good reputation and usually good prices too

 

[Texasmark]

Looks like you will have a well equipped machine. Good luck with it.

Mark

 

[nwind]

I'm trying my best

 

[F3506]

Don't mean to hijack, but I've been kicking tires lately. Is float on the rear hydraulics not a standard thing with Kubota? Does it at least come with one standard, or does it vary? Will the lever stick forward key off or does it need to be running to test?

I also have heard and seen mention of radial tires on Kubota's quite a bit. What's the story behind radial vs. old fashioned?

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Don't mean to hijack, but I've been kicking tires lately. Is float on the rear hydraulics not a standard thing with Kubota? Does it at least come with one standard, or does it vary? Will the lever stick forward key off or does it need to be running to test?

I also have heard and seen mention of radial tires on Kubota's quite a bit. What's the story behind radial vs. old fashioned?

No, the float function it is an option. Yes it will go into float and stay there, but without something attached, not sure if you can tell the difference between having float or just having a detent. I'm not sure if Kubota's detent valve has the detent at both ends or just at one end.

Radial tires give you better traction as well as a better ride. :cool

 

[nwind]

Here is Michelin's explanation of difference for radial vs. bias tires:

Comparison of radial and bias tires by Michelin Agricultural

 

[F3506]

No, the float function it is an option. Yes it will go into float and stay there, but without something attached, not sure if you can tell the difference between having float or just having a detent. I'm not sure if Kubota's detent valve has the detent at both ends or just at one end.

Radial tires give you better traction as well as a better ride. :cool

Well that sucks about the float function. For anyone who owns a Kubota, is the float position forward of a noticeable detent position, or is there some other way to tell when shopping for a used Kubota?

Here is Michelin's explanation of difference for radial vs. bias tires:

Comparison of radial and bias tires by Michelin Agricultural

Thanks for that. It's the softer ride I'm wondering about. Is it really that noticeable? I ran biased ply tires on my first truck. Traction when wet was pathetic, but I don't remember it making the ride that bad. Of course it has been a couple of years since I did this.

 

[xring100]

Well that sucks about the float function. For anyone who owns a Kubota, is the float position forward of a noticeable detent position, or is there some other way to tell when shopping for a used Kubota?

Thanks for that. It's the softer ride I'm wondering about. Is it really that noticeable? I ran biased ply tires on my first truck. Traction when wet was pathetic, but I don't remember it making the ride that bad. Of course it has been a couple of years since I did this.

I have 2 remotes on my M8540 1 is self canceling it has detents at either end of throw. The other valve with float function only has 1 detent in the forward position no detent if you pull back.

I have radials they run lower pressure and squat more than a bias ply I would guess therefore thet might ride slightly better for this reason but im not sure my calibrated kindneys could tell any difference. My buddies JD has 16.9 x 28 bias plys and I have 18.4 x 30 radials both tractors are loaded. In both cases the opperator seems to be the shock absorber over rough ground.

 

[nwind]

In case you use radial tires better do not load them because you loosing most of they advantages.
To increase weight/balance tractor use cast centres, wheel weight, rear ballast box.
In case your prefer to use loaded tires or have no other choice bias tires probably is the better choice.

 

[boggen]

the tractor (cab or without cab)
FEL (bucket or no bucket types)
if needed a backhoe attachment.

all other attachments, from FEL bucket to 3pt hitch attachments. can be obtained from many different manufactures.
it is just that the FEL (front end loader) the arms and frame work for them, tend to be more tractor specific, and same goes for a sub frame / 3pt hitch backhoe. the 3 are generally the more higher priced ticket items compared to everything else. and might be easier to get a deal on combo package.

Intended tractor usage is to handle big round bales (just unload them on delivery and load them to the feeder), move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow, move some dirt, fencing, clear some grounds (move stones, old tree parts, etc), dig bigger pond, pallet work, and so on.

the big round bales is issue, more so when "unloading them from a possible double stacked trailer, to stacking them storage till needed" good FEL lift capacity, and good amount rear ballast. a wider stance tractor, to point to seeing if you can flip the rims around, for a wider stance. so when ya try to turn just a little bit ya don't end up tipping tractor onto side with a round bail.

dig bigger pond. *arghs* depends on tractor and implements and pond and access to it.

move manure (spread it in the feature?), bush hog, cleaning some trees, snow plow, move some dirt, fencing, clear some grounds (move stones, old tree parts, etc),pallet work. *no big deal* any tractor can handle it, just bigger tractor with correct implements does it faster.

1. Palet forks (Horst HLA HD42)

2. Bale spear (Horst HLA DE5539)

3. Manure forks/grapple (Horst HLA MFE84GR72)

4. Bush cutter (Landpride RCF2084 Rotary mover)

5. Snow pusher (Landpride SSP1596 8') probably later

6. Box scraper/blade (Landpride BB2584) probably later too

7. PTO hole digger (Landpride PD35-31 with radial pin driveline & 9" auger)

In case I'll see necessity to add an extra weight for the FEL work I can do it later either with the wheel weights or just a ballast box.

pallet forks, brush cutter, box scrape and/or rear blade PHD (post hole digger) common enough easy enough to get and cheap if you can hold out and wait for a sale on them to come around.

pallet forks for FEL, and 3pt hitch, and/or bail spear. would be a nice combo when dealing with driving distances and large round bails.

manure forks/grapple. AND Snow pusher, the manure forks/grapple i can understand cleaning a animal pen, but question some of not mention of a regular FEL bucket. with regular duties of moving dirt around, and bigger pond, and cleaning up and maintaining. i see no general "shovel / bucket" in your list of stuff. everything "pokes" or slides stuff around but never picks up a large amount of dirt or like.

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bar min 2 rear remotes, for what ever 3pt implement comes along, that has hydrualic wings that fold out, and then lower/raising road tires.

3rd and 4th remotes, (TNT) top and tilt for 3pt hitch. 1 for top link, and 1 for one of side links for the 3pt hitch. with road/driveway maintance, pond, trails, it would be a nice feature to help with that nice professional look easier and quicker. box blade, rear blade, land plane, some sort of 3pt hitch rake, is what you will be looking at mostly for TNT. TNT can be nice if you have 3pt hitch pallet forks on, and trying to nail a big round round bail. and just not able to slide in right, due to uneven ground.

you have telescopic rear 3pt hitch lift arms. unsure if they are clevics (pats easy change ends) or not. or if wanted 3pt hitch quick attach.
double check ya get the extra stuff for 3pt hitch, sway chains, bars, etc.... some times ya just get lift arms and top link. and draw bar, sway chains, etc.. are extra.

the 540/1000 RPM option for tractor, might be suggested, for different bush hogs (rotatory cutters), round bailers, square bailers, 3pt style snow blowers. you have large enough tractors and different setups might work better.

if option, larger alternator, it should be automatic with cab, to deal with extra lights,

trailer connection / pig tail on rear if roading stuff between properties.

brush guard for front if doesn't come with FEL. hopefully grill is easy removal with access to regular engine radiator, hyd cooler in front....

is there an optional toolbox / stairs combo for unit? for going in/out of cab?

12vs24 gear, go for 24 gear. large enough tractor and ability to select speeds in field pending on conditions and implement can get ya through field faster. if you doing dirt work, it can help select the gear that works a tad better over all.

is there a cigarette light plugin on rear or like connection, for any sort of tools / work lights. for things when they go bad. ((along with plugging in a grease gun if you use a 12v style))

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there was mention of R4's vs R1's if skimmed things right, and snow pusher... i hate r4's on snow/ice. and in mud. a lot of stuff you will be doing in mud and/or wet ground. R1's might be a better choice overall. so you are not slipping and sliding the rear end all around.

chains might be suggested for tires if needed.

i see high rear lights on cabs, but guessing they are not directional and only shine backwards. i did not see much of any sort of "fender lighting that shines down at the 3pt hitch area.

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if doing field work, i see no mention of any sort of field style computer setup, to deal with prepping fields / planting / spraying / harvesting.

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seriously check out other brands, see how the cabs are and take them for a test run, see if you can easily access all the filters and radiators to blow stuff out of them (engine radiator, hyd cooler in front, and guessing extra cooler some place else for transmission possibly)

double check options, that are tractor specific (manufacture to manufacture, and between models)

 

[grm61]

In case you use radial tires better do not load them because you loosing most of they advantages.
To increase weight/balance tractor use cast centres, wheel weight, rear ballast box.
In case your prefer to use loaded tires or have no other choice bias tires probably is the better choice.

A loaded radial tire is WAY more puncture resistant, and will wear much longer than a loaded bias tire.

 

[JoeL4330]

3rd function is a must for a grapple, e.g. ...I had it and lost it (long story) and tried using a rear remote, but the lever placement is all wrong ...you would need both arms on the same side of your body to work it smoothly ...so, I replaced the 3rd function and am glad I did.

3rd rear remote: if you have T&T, you've used two up ...and, a rear blade wants to power angle. More is better: I have six (6) and with my rear blade, use every one of them...and, IMO, each has to be "push-pull"

If you decide to blow snow, creeper gear(s) will pay for themselves in clutches.

Do it right the first time...i.e., at initial purchase