Snow Equipment Buying/Pricing Snowblower gearbox

[rbargeron]

I agree that the OEM price is reasonable. I think that what you are calling two straight keyways are grease passages so that you can grease the fan and PTO shaft (to allow it to spread the grease across the width of area covered by the fan or the PTO shaft) and the holes are for shearbolts.Aaron Z

The parts diagrams at the Kub site for the 2563 blower show the impeller is located by a pin or bolt and is driven by a key. The pto yoke is also key driven. No grease passages on these products, fan is a static fit and bearing at the pto end is sealed.

 

[aczlan]

The parts diagrams at the Kub site for the 2563 blower show the impeller is located by a pin or bolt and is driven by a key. The pto yoke is also key driven. No grease passages on these products, fan is a static fit and bearing at the pto end is sealed.

So there is no shear protection for the fan?
It looks to me like the fan is a snug fit and then it is powered through the fan adapter (shown here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52988-snowblower-gearbox-image-3689645411-jpg )

Aaron Z

 

[dslanec]

It looks like the part that broke is Kubota part 70060-00831 which has been superceded by 70060-04038 which is available for $119 from Messicks: Kubota SHAFT, INPUT Part #70060-04038 To get the exploded parts diagram with part numbers, visit Kubota Tractor Corporation - Parts List with a browser other than Firefox, enter bl2563 for your model and click the "Open" link in the far left column. <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/snow-removal/405820-snowblower-gearbox-blowerpage2-png"/> <img src="http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/files/snow-removal/405821-snowblower-gearbox-blowerpage1-png"/> Aaron Z

I just got back from dealer and got the shaft. The reason the part number changed was because of the exact problem I have. The new shaft stays thicker longer at the auger end. Therefor I had to also get a new bearing that goes over the shaft that is 1 1/4 inches. The old bearing was only 1". I also got all new seals. The prices are crazy for this stuff. I needed 3 seals and they were $19.00 EACH!!! The bearing was $40.00!! How do they get away with these prices???? The only benefit is the dealer is 2 miles from my house.

Unfortunately I blew out my back yesterday and am unable to work on it today. It'll probably be Sunday until I get back to it. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

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[aczlan]

I just got back from dealer and got the shaft. The reason the part number changed was because of the exact problem I have. The new shaft stays thicker longer at the auger end. Therefor I had to also get a new bearing that goes over the shaft that is 1 1/4 inches. The old bearing was only 1". I also got all new seals. The prices are crazy for this stuff. I needed 3 seals and they were $19.00 EACH!!! The bearing was $40.00!! How do they get away with these prices???? The only benefit is the dealer is 2 miles from my house.

Unfortunately I blew out my back yesterday and am unable to work on it today. It'll probably be Sunday until I get back to it. I'll let everyone know how it turns out.

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If you have a good Napa or bearing supply house nearby, they may be able to cross reference them for less, but that might not be worth the hassle.

Aaron Z

 

[rbargeron]

So there is no shear protection for the fan?
It looks to me like the fan is a snug fit and then it is powered through the fan adapter (shown here: http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/...52988-snowblower-gearbox-image-3689645411-jpg )Aaron Z

I agree - the fan is protected by a shear bolt in the fan adapter. But the adapter's static half is keyed to the shaft. See Kub's B/L2563 Panel 0010000 the key is 70060-00814. The other half of the adapter has an oilite bronze bushing in it for when the shearbolt breaks.

 

[dslanec]

Well I got the augers off. The shaft that is left is a lot longer than I expected?here is a pic. Why in the parts breakdown does it show it in 3 pieces?
My next move is unbolt the cover and start taking all the guts out so I can remove the old broken shaft correct? This will be the part that I hope I don't screw anything up.in order to change all 3 seals everything has to be removed I assume. At least I have a service manual with the pics. I will be attempting this Sunday afternoon when I get home from work. If I am missing anything let me know. Thanks all

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[aczlan]

I am pretty sure they intended it to be seen as one shaft (hence the "serrated" edges of the sections).

Aaron Z

 

[PILOON]

Sure thing, #13 is that one long shaft all one piece.(like 48/49" on a 48" blower)
Next you will need to dismantle the fan shaft in order to replace that.
Fan itself is easy, undo the fan sheer bolt and pull fan off.
On the tractor side, remove the bolt that holds U joint as well as a setscrew and yank the PTO shaft away.
Next will be 3 or 4 bolts that hold the bearing in place.
Probably the most difficult will be that flange that mates to the blower fan. Again a bolt and a key.

When you have the fan removed and 'in hand' you will notice 3 legs that support the 3 fan blades.
I have noticed that those legs (on mine) simply rotted to the point that they were crumpled (like compressed) from hard work and that my blades were twisted making for poor propulsion. I beat mine straight and replaced the legs or props with tougher ones which resulted in much better performance.
I simply did my best to make all three 'legs' as even as possible and welded in place.
Now I always blow at that 700 or so RPM and never noticed any vibration. (like 6 yrs or so now)
Were I to again need to dismantle I would also close up the gap between the blades and the fan drum.
If you have welding I'd close up the gap or at worst drill and add plastic or rubber flaps.

 

[dslanec]

Sure thing, #13 is that one long shaft all one piece.(like 48/49" on a 48" blower) Next you will need to dismantle the fan shaft in order to replace that. Fan itself is easy, undo the fan sheer bolt and pull fan off. On the tractor side, remove the bolt that holds U joint as well as a setscrew and yank the PTO shaft away. Next will be 3 or 4 bolts that hold the bearing in place. Probably the most difficult will be that flange that mates to the blower fan. Again a bolt and a key. When you have the fan removed and 'in hand' you will notice 3 legs that support the 3 fan blades. I have noticed that those legs (on mine) simply rotted to the point that they were crumpled (like compressed) from hard work and that my blades were twisted making for poor propulsion. I beat mine straight and replaced the legs or props with tougher ones which resulted in much better performance. I simply did my best to make all three 'legs' as even as possible and welded in place. Now I always blow at that 700 or so RPM and never noticed any vibration. (like 6 yrs or so now) Were I to again need to dismantle I would also close up the gap between the blades and the fan drum. If you have welding I'd close up the gap or at worst drill and add plastic or rubber flaps.

Thank you very much for the help and advice. I have heard and seen kits that close the gap between fan and drum. I have some thick rubber at work I might bolt to the end of blades. If I run into any other questions during repair(and I'm sure I will) I will be sure and ask.

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[aczlan]

I have heard and seen kits that close the gap between fan and drum. I have some thick rubber at work I might bolt to the end of blades.

Just make sure they are all the same size, have holes in the same place and your fan has its holes in the same place. Otherwise your fan could end up out of balance.

Aaron Z