Smart Shop tips!

[LS Tractor Owner]

By clamping the plate with the bigger hole to act as a guide for the hole-saw, enlarging the hole behind the plate.....

 

[grsthegreat]

By clamping the plate with the bigger hole to act as a guide for the hole-saw, enlarging the hole behind the plate.....

i actually do it easier than that i have an arbor that can accept 2 hole saw bits. I put the larger one on first, than the smaller. The smaller acts as a guide.

 

[fried1765]

i actually do it easier than that i have an arbor that can accept 2 hole saw bits. I put the larger one on first, than the smaller. The smaller acts as a guide.

I have that system also, but for my Lenox hole saws.
Is it also available for annular cutters?

 

[BigBlue1]

i actually do it easier than that i have an arbor that can accept 2 hole saw bits. I put the larger one on first, than the smaller. The smaller acts as a guide.

That's actually a really slick idea. Both of these methods are interesting. Going to have to keep these in mind for the future!

Thanks!

 

[bindian]

very creative idea... love it!

Hehehe. I love it too. Thanks.
hugs, Brandi

 

[JK22]

Me too... because it means I finished the project. My problem is completely finishing projects. Seems that last few details take me the longest to complete and as such all the tools, hardware, scraps, and stuff are all over the place and I don't have a place to set any more 'stuff' on my workbench.

Uh huh... kind of like that top-n-tilt project?

 

[Sberry]

I will have to get a pic of fix to an egg shape worn drawbar hole. Weld the worn side back in and can fit the holesaw in and trim it back smooth and round and not even notice its done.

 

[pmsmechanic]

I will have to get a pic of fix to an egg shape worn drawbar hole. Weld the worn side back in and can fit the holesaw in and trim it back smooth and round and not even notice its done.

I've seen sets of different diameter carbon(?) rods sold to do the same thing. You put the carbon in the hole and weld it up. Pull the carbon out and your done.

I like your idea. I usually just use a die grinder and what ever else I have to make the hole round.

 

[Sberry]

Just babble.

 

[user.69169]

I've seen sets of different diameter carbon(?) rods sold to do the same thing. You put the carbon in the hole and weld it up. Pull the carbon out and your done.

I like your idea. I usually just use a die grinder and what ever else I have to make the hole round.

Carbon de way to go, but you ain't likely to pull it back out, just bust it out.

 

[Sberry]

I havnt used the rod in a while but with nothing in the way can actually weld them out close even if they are thick. Wire is super easy as well as 7018. Main reason to true it is a bit of appearance, fit issue is rather minor.

 

[TxFig]

I know this post was made 6 months ago - but I HAVE to ask

Where did you get yours?

I have been thinking about redo'ing the lighting in my 1200 sqft shop and never even considered changing the type of lights (until your post). Just changing the type of lights would be SO much easier than re-wiring the whole shop lighting system...

 

[TxFig]

Depends on what you're putting in the 5 gal buckets.

I use dozens of 5 gal buckets for storing honey (I'm a beekeeper). Liquid does not pour out of a bucket with a threaded lid as nicely as it does from one with a snap-down lid. I have found the same is true for paint, hydrolic fluid, ... basically any liquid.

I use the buckets to store some dry items (mostly food stores for emergencies). For those, the screw on lids are nice. But I can't give up the snap-down ones entirely.

 

[TxFig]

Please take pictures and post them. I would LOVE to see how you did this!

 

[TxFig]

I will next time. She is the kind of gal that must use a spoon and a knife to make a peanut butter and jelly sandwich. I am skilled(or uncouth) enough to use just one.

I thought we were supposed to use our fingers to dip into the jars and spread around?

:confused3:

 

[two_bit_score]

Please take pictures and post them. I would LOVE to see how you did this!

:welcome: to TBN!

 

[grsthegreat]

I know this post was made 6 months ago - but I HAVE to ask

Where did you get yours?

I have been thinking about redo'ing the lighting in my 1200 sqft shop and never even considered changing the type of lights (until your post). Just changing the type of lights would be SO much easier than re-wiring the whole shop lighting system...

what are you referring to

 

[grsthegreat]

Please take pictures and post them. I would LOVE to see how you did this!

did what? not sure what your referring to again

 

[TxFig]

what are you referring to

You said you replaced the florescent lights in your shop with LED lights.

 

[grsthegreat]

You said you replaced the florescent lights in your shop with LED lights.

on my shop i replaced the old style t12 8 foot high output dim florescent light with a retrofit kit to add the center mounts, and installed new led t8 style lights. the lamps fit the same t12 style light sockets, but the kits came with new tombstones.. i had to add the center mount plate and eliminate the ballast wiring.

i didnt want to have to replace entire light fixture because of the way they were installed. would have been alot of work.

i have rebuilt 100's and 100's of shop florescent fixtures for the state of idaho over the years. fixtures were originally installed in the late 1960's. but were clean. only old ballast and lamps were shot. left old ballast in fixture (less toxic to leave installed trhan to take to landfill) , rewired fixture tombstones to accept t8 lamps. done.

in my case, i had the lamps leftover from years of retrofits. i simply ordered the center section from ebay

Retrofit Kit for 8' 2 Bulb T12 Light Strip To 8 ft T8 4 Lamp Fluorescent Fixture | eBay


i only had about $8 per fixture since i already had the lamps. if you have to purchase lamps...thats a different ball of wax