Buying Advice Small tractor advice

[Beaglenut]

First time tractor buyer looking for advice. We're buying a new house on 20 acres, more than half of which is wooded.

Things I plan to use a tractor for:

1) 2-3 acres of grass to mow, all pretty flat except for the dam and banks of a small pond (the dam is maybe 6 feet wide so not a big slope).

2) Want to put in a vegetable garden somewhere in the current mowed area, no idea how big.

3) Also will want to plant an acre or two of food plots for deer, in a field that was farmed until about 5 years ago but is now overgrown.

4) Pull a wagon to haul firewood and dead deer lol.

I'm thinking it would be smarter to pay a local farmer to brush-hog the food plot area once a year rather than buying a brush hog for my own limited use. Same for plowing snow off the driveway because we're only an hour north of St. Louis and if we have 2 big snows a year that's a lot. If that makes sense then I think I'm looking at investing in a small tractor with a mid-mount mower, a rotary tiller for the garden / food plot and a wagon for hauling.

Now for my questions:

I'm not mechanically inclined so I'll be buying something new or very close to it from a dealer. I've been browsing the John Deere web site and have zoned in on the X749 or the 1026R as models that look like they'll do what I need, but they look very different. I'm sure the sales people at the dealer will have their own story but wondered if anyone out here could shed some light on the pros and cons and differences between them.

I've seen other posts mention a spring sale, is that generally the best time to buy a new tractor? Since we're just buying the place now, and since we're in the middle of the worst drought I can remember, I think we can wait until next spring to buy if that's the best time. The current owner has been paying a neighbor to do the mowing so I can probably pay that a few more times and the mowing season will be over. And I can probably make it through one deer season without too much abuse to my truck and / or my back.

Any other comments on my situation and my plan of attack would also be appreciated. I've looked at other tractor brands online and I don't know if it's just that Deere has the best web site but I really don't see a lot of competition for tractors this small with as much power and options available.

 

[EdC]

Welcome, you will sure find plenty of information and great people here. I think you might be thinking a little on the small side. One of the issues that you need to watch out for is ground clearance and while both of those machines are great mowers they don't have very much groung clearance and a stick, kicked up by a tire could do some damage pretty easily. With what little experience I have it sounds like you are describing work work for a 2520 or larger machine. Also consider getting a front end loader. It works okay to clear a driveway and the bucket is just tremendously useful for anything from being used as a crane to lift stuff out of a pickup truck to spreading landscape bark, a FEL will come in handy for more things than you can count. Later on pallet forks may come in handy and then it is a simple matter to take off the bucket and put on the pallet forks. Boy I sure like to spend other peoples money:dance1:

 

[jenkinsph]

The x749 with all wheel steer is more manueverable than the 1026R but the 1026R has the ability to add a fel and drive over 60" 7 iron deck. For mowing and light 3PH work I prefer the x749 especially if there are lots of obstacles to mow around. The 1026R is better suited for those with a wide variety of jobs on a small acreage. For your new property I would suggest a 2720, 200CX fel, 655 tiller and a 72" drive over mmm deck as an all in one machine. Ideally a separate mower and a compact tractor would be best. I really like my x749 but I didn't buy it until after I had the larger compacts to do the heavy work.

 

[Beaglenut]

Thanks for the replies but I'm starting to feel like my bank account has sprung a leak.

On the ground clearance issue, that brings up another question. Is it fairly easy to get the mid-mount mower decks on and off of the small tractors I'm talking about or do I have to go bigger to get the "drive-on and off" feature I've read about? If it is fairly easy, doesn't that take care of the ground clearance problem since the areas I'm taking about mowing are all mowed now and are pretty level?

 

[XSKIER]

Beaglenut,

I think that if you're limited to one machine, the 1026R would be your best bet. Otherwise, I would recommend a 3038e and a Z465. You don't mention a Front End Loader, I didn't think I needed one either, but now wouldn't live with out it 8 months later. With mowing and wood gathering, you'll be swapping implements frequently. The 1026R is quick change, but it's quicker to just jump on a different machine. Finally, no one ever mentions it in this particular comparison, the R has a two speed transmission. In low range it's capable of substantially more torque than the X700 series.

 

[firefighterjrm]

I faced this same problem about 3 years ago after research I decided on a 2320 with a 62D MMM but since then I had a major drive drain problem which deere covered but I decided to look at other options. What I finally decided on was going with a 3032e with FEL and go with D-140 to cut grass. Here was my reasoning on this. I wanted to get a little bigger tractor than the 2320 and have a tractor to do "tractor" work and a grass cutter to cut grass. The drive over deck is nice but was sorta of pain hooking and unhooking and when I looked at the cost of Drive over deck and set up well it paid for the D-140 due to the fact the cost of a drive over MMM and set up is around 2K. Now there are some limitations to the 3032e/3038e it does not have all the bell's and whistles and does not a mid mount PTO which I did not need. I currently use the 3032e with 5ft Frontier R.C. a 5 foot box blade, and 5 foot scrape along with a I-Match system. For the tractor with FEL and a D-140 I was around 16,500.00. Deere does run alot of Promo's I know when I purchased mine they had 1,000 off on 3032 and 38 when purchasing two or more impliments which FEL would be one and they were offering 0% intrest for 60 months on the D seris lawn mowers. With that all being said there will be alot of pro's and con's on E and D machines, I think if you keep up on your matience and take of your tractor/tractors you will be fine. Keep in mind use the tractors for what they are intended for not to use over its limits.

 

[joshuabardwell]

Is there a reason a three-point finish mower is off the table? Much cheaper than the drive over, and not too hard to hook up.

 

[firefighterjrm]

My 3032e came with a 60 inch bush hog brand finish mower, I used it one time and sold it. It was more pain in ***** for me due to the fact of mowing around the house, the pool, the garage, the deck, the kids play sets you get the point and all the turning and moving dug into my yard. It is good for long stretches but if you have alot of turning and obstacles I would not recom. it but thats just my 2 cents for what it worth......

 

[meburdick]

The x749 with all wheel steer is more manueverable than the 1026R but the 1026R has the ability to add a fel and drive over 60" 7 iron deck. For mowing and light 3PH work I prefer the x749 especially if there are lots of obstacles to mow around. The 1026R is better suited for those with a wide variety of jobs on a small acreage. For your new property I would suggest a 2720, 200CX fel, 655 tiller and a 72" drive over mmm deck as an all in one machine. Ideally a separate mower and a compact tractor would be best. I really like my x749 but I didn't buy it until after I had the larger compacts to do the heavy work.

This recommendation seems completely over the top. What are you basing that on? I have a 2520 with a 62D On Ramp deck, and that thing is absolute overkill for my 1 acre of property. The only reason I bought a machine "that big" was to get the FEL capacity of well over 1,000 pounds because I move firewood in log lengths and stacked on pallets.

The 1026R is a well-rounded machine that will do a lot. If you don't need a loader, don't get one. If you decide in the future that it's useful, add it then (my absolute, hands-down most used function on my tractor is lifting / moving with my pallet forks).

Ballast the rear tires for extra stability and traction when pulling, and you'll be able to do just about any basic task you need. Adding a loader with a bucket would give you a means to move snow when necessary, too.

 

[Beaglenut]

OK it sounds like the 749 is out because I should at least have the option of adding a FEL in the future. Too bad, that 4-wheel steering sounds pretty nice.

So now I guess I'm comparing the 1026R to the 2320. First thing I looked at based on my first reply here was ground clearance and there really is a big difference if I'm reading the specs right, only 7 1/2 inches on the 1026R vs 12 1/2 on the 2320. So the question is what's the "cost" of low ground clearance on a 4WD machine - am I really that likely to bottom-out and get stuck? Other problems? Also the mowers listed for the 2320 are referred to as "on-ramp" so I assume they are drive-on and off for easier hookup, but the 1026R doesn't mention that so does anybody know if there's a difference?

This forum is great by the way, I really appreciate all the feedback.

 

[meburdick]

Well, it really depends on what you may end up wanting to do with the machine in the future. If you're reasonably sure that you don't want to own your own machine for moving mulch, gravel, snow, dirt, etc... Then a loader won't be useful. If you have one or two projects where that might be useful, you could consider renting a machine. When I bought my machine, I wanted to use it as much as I could when installing my new above-ground pool. But, I couldn't justify spending $7,500 for a backhoe attachment to dig two trenches for the electrical work. I rented a machine instead.

Yes, the On Ramp decks are drive-over. But, so is the deck for the 1026R. The largest difference that you'll find is that the 1026R deck can auto-connect to the mounting points on the tractor and there's even an option for auto-connect of the PTO to operate it. The 2x20 machines require you to get off of the machine, raise and lift a lock lever, then twist two mounting hooks. Once done, you'll also have to pull the collar pack on the PTO shaft, slip it onto the splines of the PTO, then position it to lock into the positive detent. Sounds complicated, right? I can have my deck off of my machine in under a minute, and reinstalled in about the same amount of time (if I'm being timed). Double that time frame if being leisurely.

Low ground clearance is mostly about terrain navigation. If you have a level lot that's reasonably smooth, lower clearance will not likely be an issue for you. The biggest advantage to the higher clearance machines is actually more about tire size and contact patch than it is about the clearance itself. The 2320 / 2520 machines, for example, will distribute their weight better on the larger tires. And, generally, you will get much more traction from them on hills, in the dirt, in the mud, and in the snow. I have the 54" snowthrower attachment for my 2520, the rear tires are ballasted turfs, and I do not use chains because I don't have to.

 

[meburdick]

Well, it really depends on what you may end up wanting to do with the machine in the future. If you're reasonably sure that you don't want to own your own machine for moving mulch, gravel, snow, dirt, etc... Then a loader won't be useful. If you have one or two projects where that might be useful, you could consider renting a machine. When I bought my machine, I wanted to use it as much as I could when installing my new above-ground pool. But, I couldn't justify spending $7,500 for a backhoe attachment to dig two trenches for the electrical work. I rented a machine instead.

Yes, the On Ramp decks are drive-over. But, so is the deck for the 1026R. The largest difference that you'll find is that the 1026R deck can auto-connect to the mounting points on the tractor and there's even an option for auto-connect of the PTO to operate it. The 2x20 machines require you to get off of the machine, raise and lift a lock lever, then twist two mounting hooks. Once done, you'll also have to pull the collar pack on the PTO shaft, slip it onto the splines of the PTO, then position it to lock into the positive detent. Sounds complicated, right? I can have my deck off of my machine in under a minute, and reinstalled in about the same amount of time (if I'm being timed). Double that time frame if being leisurely.

Low ground clearance is mostly about terrain navigation. If you have a level lot that's reasonably smooth, lower clearance will not likely be an issue for you. The biggest advantage to the higher clearance machines is actually more about tire size and contact patch than it is about the clearance itself. The 2320 / 2520 machines, for example, will distribute their weight better on the larger tires. And, generally, you will get much more traction from them on hills, in the dirt, in the mud, and in the snow. I have the 54" snowthrower attachment for my 2520, the rear tires are ballasted turfs, and I do not use chains because I don't have to.

 

[firefighterjrm]

As stated look at what you are going to do/need for your tractor but also take time to go to the dealer look at different machines and sizes and see which on fits for you also look at possible future needs. I think everyone on here will tell you the same once they got there tractor they found more and more uses then what they thought they would use it for. Also I would price out items example 3032e w/FEL+D seris lawn mower verses a 2320 w/FEL with drive over 62D verses 1026R w/FEL with a drive over deck, I think you will be suprised. All the tractors listed above are excellent machines and all of them have there +'s and -'s. As I stated I had a 2320 nice little tractor and would more than likely still have it had I not had the problems which was a defect from the factory. Now that I have two seperate machines the 3032e and D 140 I could not be happier wish I had done it in the first place it would have been the same price in which I paid for the 2320 with drive over deck. The 1026r I do not know much about but reading reviews it seems to be solid platform with good reviews I know deere has a 0% for 60 months on the 1 seris now, for me the 1 seris was just a little to small for me but that is not to say it is not a good tractor. Hope this helps

 

[EdC]

Beaglenut
I mentioned ground clearance in the first reply because it is an important issue to me when I take the 2320 over unimproved, rough areas of my property. The front wheels throw up sticks, there are rocks (boy are there rocks) and that sort of thing could get jammned into a hydraulic line or drive shaft and could cause damage. As far as getting stuck the extra ground clearance may help a little but I have been stuck (only temprarily cause the FEL can help get me unstuck) many times but only bottomed out once. Some of those times were my fault when I stayed in 2 wheel drive when it was way too muddy. Now, if it is that mucky I just stay away from that area until it dries out. So again the ground clearance was more a debris/damage to tractor issue then a getting stuck issue. I certainly agree with the post that mentioned sitting on all of the candidate machines and operating them to see how well they fit.

 

[jenkinsph]

This recommendation seems completely over the top. What are you basing that on? I have a 2520 with a 62D On Ramp deck, and that thing is absolute overkill for my 1 acre of property. The only reason I bought a machine "that big" was to get the FEL capacity of well over 1,000 pounds because I move firewood in log lengths and stacked on pallets.

The 1026R is a well-rounded machine that will do a lot. If you don't need a loader, don't get one. If you decide in the future that it's useful, add it then (my absolute, hands-down most used function on my tractor is lifting / moving with my pallet forks).

Ballast the rear tires for extra stability and traction when pulling, and you'll be able to do just about any basic task you need. Adding a loader with a bucket would give you a means to move snow when necessary, too.[/QUOTE



The 2720 is a good choice for twenty acres the OP mentions. For one acre I doubt I would have more than an x320 and a cart. Lots of new property owners start out thinking they will just mow the lawn around the house but soon they usually want to get more involved with the whole place and are on TBN looking to trade up which is costly. Better to get it right the first time.

 

[parkerpusher]

I have run much larger machines, and personally have found the 1026R to be suprisingly capable...it feels much larger than it really is when it comes to getting work done, and it is still small enough to store easily in a garage or a storage container (as I do). I think that if you buy a new machine, using the 0% financing etc., that you would be making a mistake NOT to get the loader. There are only a few things in life that you find that you didn't need before you had, but once you have one you will NEVER be without. A FEL is going to be one of those things if you are going to own a small tractor. Without the loader, you are going to realize that you have this beautiful machine you paid thousands for to help you get work done sitting 15 feet from you while you struggle to lift a propane tank from the back of the truck or some other chore like that. They go off and on in just a minute, and you will use it ALOT in my opinion.

I think the 1026R is right for you. But look and drive everything first. Also, before investing in a machine, I would recommend spending at least a few months with your new property. Your perspective on things will likely change as far as what you need or want etc, and there is no need to rush an important decision.

By the way, while the 1026R would likely make a great mower, I mow with a small dedicated mower instead. If I had wide open stretched and could make use of a wider deck, then I might consider a MMM for the R. I have so many ups and downs and small spots to get to that a dedicated mower works better for me.

 

[joshuabardwell]

There are only a few things in life that you find that you didn't need before you had, but once you have one you will NEVER be without. A FEL is going to be one of those things if you are going to own a small tractor. Without the loader, you are going to realize that you have this beautiful machine you paid thousands for to help you get work done sitting 15 feet from you while you struggle to lift a propane tank from the back of the truck or some other chore like that. They go off and on in just a minute, and you will use it ALOT in my opinion.

This guy is right. If you ever have to lift things or carry things, get the loader. Divided out over the life of the 0% financing, the price will be tolerable. Your machine will be substantially less capable if you pass on the loader, and it will probably sting for you to come up with the cash to purchase the loader after the fact. The days when all a person did with a tractor was pull a plow and a disc are long gone.

Some things you can do with a loader that you might not have thought of: carry water to plants for irrigation; push in and pull out T-posts; use as a giant mixing trough for animal feed, then BONUS, dump the feed into the hopper all in one go; hang a deer carcass from it; raise up a water barrel or two for gravity-feeding something; get your tractor un-stuck from some situation where you got it stuck; lift implements onto and off of the back of your truck or trailer; and the list goes on and on, especially if you start adding attachments other than just a bucket, like a hay spear or pallet forks.

 

[parkerpusher]

Amen.

Also, having a matched loader for a small tractor will help your resale value (if and when you sell it) so much that it will seem like the loader was free, and you will sell it much much faster.

This guy is right. If you ever have to lift things or carry things, get the loader. Divided out over the life of the 0% financing, the price will be tolerable. Your machine will be substantially less capable if you pass on the loader, and it will probably sting for you to come up with the cash to purchase the loader after the fact. The days when all a person did with a tractor was pull a plow and a disc are long gone.

Some things you can do with a loader that you might not have thought of: carry water to plants for irrigation; push in and pull out T-posts; use as a giant mixing trough for animal feed, then BONUS, dump the feed into the hopper all in one go; hang a deer carcass from it; raise up a water barrel or two for gravity-feeding something; get your tractor un-stuck from some situation where you got it stuck; lift implements onto and off of the back of your truck or trailer; and the list goes on and on, especially if you start adding attachments other than just a bucket, like a hay spear or pallet forks.

 

[firefighterjrm]

I think there has been alot of valid points posted, from past experince I have found that this person may say 2320 is the best way or 2720 is the best the 1026r is hands down what you need and I think it will be best for you to go to the dealer ask questions look at the machines get on them write down your questions look at what you need now and maybe in the future. I personally like the 3032e/3038e tractors due to the simplicity of it but as I stated it also has it draw backs but it fits my need's but may not fit others. As far as the FEL (front end loader) I have to agree with others that is something that you should strongly consider getting due to so many uses and as others stated it would be eaiser now to finance verses having to buy out rite later. As far as the drive over decks go some LOVE it but take a close look at the price and set up charges for this, for price of this you can buy a seperate J.D. lawn tractor which to me it just make since but there again thats just me. Finally look at what you might be using your rear PTO is going to be used for due to larger impliments require higher rear PTO for larger rear impliments. At the end of the day compare the machines (different sizes) along with pricing to get what best fits you for your current and future needs.

 

[jenkinsph]

I think the small fels on a 1026R or x700 series mowers are too costly for what you can do with them. They require alot of extra ballasting that makes them less optimum as mowers imo. A better way to go is a separate lawn mower without the added weight of ballasting and a tractor with fel, ballast and higher ground clearance that the 2x20 series and up offers. I wouldn't wan't to use a 1026R or a 749 to drive through the woods to collect firewood just not enough ground clearance.

For the limited tasks the OP listed an x749 would work very well along with a pickup truck. Bear in mind that most of what the OP has listed will be mowing three acres, hard to know what else he will do in the future. When you start other jobs on twenty acres a larger tractor with fel makes more sense.