Simple, strong tractor (50 to 80 pto HP)?

[SlainKnight]

I am looking for a tractor with a pto horsepower in the 50 to 80 range. I have about 200 acres of land in northern Kentucky, and the tractor would be used for mowing, lite tillage, and other general farm chores. I would like the tractor to have the following characteristics:

1. Minimal electronics and fancy computers.

2. Simple design and reliable operation.

3. Quality construction and long operating life.

4. Made by either John Deere, Kubota, or New Holland.

What models should I be looking at?

 

[froggy]

Case JX series or Massey Ferguson 400 series:

JX

400

 

[Kyle_in_Tex]

JD 5205 for 4 wheel drive. 5205

JD 5303 for 2 wheel drive.
5303

 

[Egon]

If used is in consideration A john Deere 4020 may be for you.



John Deere
4020


Manufactured: 1963 - 1972
Total built: 57,471 (3,721 gas; 5,268 LP; 48,482 diesel) (187 high crop; 180 industrial)
Factory: Waterloo, Iowa
Cost: (US Dollars) $10,345 (1972)
Power:
PTO (HP): 91.17
Engine:
Fuel: gasoline
Cylinders: 6
Bore/Stroke (inches): 4.25 x 4.25
Displacement (ci): 362
Compression: 7.5 : 1
Rated RPMs: 2200
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Oil capacity (qts): 8
Manufacturer: John Deere

Available in 1966
Engine:
Fuel: diesel
Cylinders: 6
Bore/Stroke (inches): 4.25 x 4.75
Displacement (ci): 404
Compression: 16.5 : 1
Rated RPMs: 2200
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Oil capacity (qts): 12
Manufacturer: John Deere
Engine:
Fuel: LP gas
Cylinders: 6
Bore/Stroke (inches): 4.25 x 4.25
Displacement (ci): 362
Compression: 9.0 : 1
Rated RPMs: 2200
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Oil capacity (qts): 8
Manufacturer: John Deere

Available in 1966, replaced 340 ci engine
Engine:
Fuel: gasoline
Cylinders: 6
Bore/Stroke (inches): 4.24x4.00
Displacement (ci): 340
Compression: 7.5:1
Rated RPMs: 2200
Firing order: 1-5-3-6-2-4
Oil capacity (qts):
Manufacturer: John Deere
Transmission:
Type: Syncro-Range
Forward: 8
Reverse: 2
Transmission:
Type: Power Shift
Forward: 8
Reverse: 4
MFWD: optional after 1969
Capacity:
Fuel (Gal): 34 (gas/LP), 45 (diesel)
Cooling (Qt): 24
3-Point:
Category: II
Lift (lbs): 3,790
Power Take-off (PTO):
Type: independent
Speeds (RPM): 540, 1000
Hydraulics:
Type: closed
Capacity (gal): 10
Flow (gpm): 13
Outlets: 1
Tires:
Ag front: 10.00-16
Ag rear: 18.4-34
Dimensions:
Weight (pounds): 8,555
Wheelbase (inches): 98
Length (inches): 150
Width (inches):
Height (inches):
Electrical:
Battery volts: 12
Ground: positive before 1969, negative after
Battery cold-cranking amps:
Alternator amps:
Steering: hydraulic power
Nebraska Test:
Test Number: 849
Test Date: 1963
Engine: diesel
PTO HP: 91.2
Drawbar HP: 78.0
Max pull (pounds): 10,184
Serial Numbers:
Location: Rear of transmission case

1964 65000
1965 91000
1966 119000
1967 145660
1968 173982
1969 201000
1970 222160
1971 250000
1972 260791
Links: )</font>

Think this was considered as one very desirable tractor.

Egon /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Cityboyfarmer]

I have the JD 5205 MFWD and it fits the bill. Simple, very strong, and a whole lot of tractor for the money.

 

[GaryE]

SlainKnight,

You have already received some very good advice. But based on your list of requirements, do you really need a tractor that big? I am doing much, if not more than your list with an L series Kubota without any problems.

I am a firm believer in “Bigger Is Better” but it does sound like you might be able to save a little on the tractor without compromise and pick up a few more attachments with the savings.

Just a thought,

Gary

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I'm a big fan of the John Deere 2440 or 2640. Also in the same line, 2350, 2550, 2750, 2950,2355, 2555, 2755, 2955. Not all the bells and whistles of newer models, but all the basics that a tractor needs. They are built with some eye on heavier tillage work, but were primarily intended as "chore tractors". I own 88 acres and rent about 100 more. I use a 2440 for 90% of my work. (hay/pasture/sweetcorn/corn/wheat) The 2440 is 60 HP. 2640 is 70. They can be had for $6000 to $12000 depending on condition (2WD, no loader) I bought my 2440 3 years ago. I've been pleased with it since.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

4. Made by either John Deere, Kubota, or New Holland.


Seems like the JD 5200 series machines might be a great fit for you.

 

[JerryG]

<font color="blue"> 4. Made by either John Deere, Kubota, or New Holland.
</font>
I thought about offering other brands also, but decided that I would respect his request.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( <font color="blue"> 4. Made by either John Deere, Kubota, or New Holland.
</font>
I thought about offering other brands also, but decided that I would respect his request. )</font>


I think a lot of people feel that way too.

 

[SonnieP]

What? I didn't say a word!!!

 

[Steve02]

Maybe those brands represent the dealers that are close that he trusts to give him good service (guessing..). Obviously that is not saying anything negative about any of the other major brands, other than they may not have good local representation.

 

[Bob_Skurka]

Steve your analysis is exactly why some of us simply don't inject other brands unless we are asked to suggest other brands. But to expand it a bit, is is possible that another brand or two are available locally but the original poster may have ruled them out because of:
A) Personal choice,
B) Low dealer quality,
C) Brand preference,
D) Resale values,
E) Cost considerations,
F) None of the above.

What many consider to be "troll activity" is when people who are brand boosters, with little real tractor experience, probably jsut bought their first real tractor, or perhaps their first modern tractor, perhaps no experience in the size of tractor being discussed, jump in and inject their brand when nobody asked about it. While it is good to be proud of a brand, it is generally bad form to force feed a brand down everyone's throats.

Fact is I still consider myself to be a newbie and I am still learning, and every brand has its strengths and weaknesses and I find out more every day. Guys like JerryG, cowboydoc, _RaT_, MikePA, Bird, MadReferee, Egon and a couple dozen others I didn't list are the real knowledge base around here and combined have a couple centuries of seat time in various brands and various sizes.

 

[SlainKnight]

I restricted my choice to the Big Three because they are within reasonable driving distance. Also, if I need parts down the road, I feel they will be available with the Big Three. I know there are other good tractor manufacturers out there, and I did not intend to berate them with my restrictions.

I also want to buy new rather than used. I lack the skill to tell a good used tractor from one that has been abused. This is sad because I see a lot of older JD tractors around here that are build like a tank, but the folks who have them that I trust would never dream of selling them.

I wonder if we are really making progress with some of the fancy, gaget-bound tractors they are selling today. Park one next to one of the 20-30 year old ag tractors, and my choice would clearly be the simple, heavy duty tractor of old.

In my opinion, technology has advanced considerably in the past 20 years, but tractor manufacturers have used that technology to cut costs, increase profits, or increase market share rather than build a better tractor.

 

[Soundguy]

If you want new/newish.. and solid technology.. but perhaps without all the bells, whistles, and gongs. .. Take a look at the NH XX10/s series.

The xx10 series generally offer a more 'basic' / spartan operators platform. I looked very closely at a 3010s and have bought a 7610s.. and both of the op platforms are pretty basic and just offer what you need to 'run' the tractor. In comparison.. i used to own a xx20 series tractor.. a 1920 I consider the xx20 series tractos as 'feature laden' and have a bit nicer op platforms.. more gauge/cluster options.. etc

I like antiques myself.. so was naturally drawn to the more sparse op platform of the 10 series after I saw them... not to mention i needed more hp than the good sturdy 1920 had.

As far as brands go.. I'm pretty much a ford / NH person.. ( the bulk of my tractor purchases and units i own are ford / nh ) though I like all tractors... so take my advice with that in thought.

I'm sure you can find equivalent comparisons in MF, Kubota and JD... that is.. more of the economy models geared at hp, less convienience and lower price, over lavish features.. etc..

As for new.. don't be afraid to look at a low hour trade that has been serviced/ originally purchased at your dealer. My two last NH tractor purchases were such units... a couple years old.. originally bought and serviced at that dealer.. then traded for newer/bigger/smaller tractors... The previous owner takes the depreciation hit, and that leaves you with a good edge on doller per hp comparisons. The low year units will be especially nice as you can find them with factory warranty on them.

Soundguy

 

[Farmwithjunk]

Further on the "almost new"/trade-in/demo idea. A local Deere dealer has a contract with the Kentucky State Fair Board to provide tractors for the fair. They pull passenger wagons, clean out horse barns, and a host of other "tractor chores". When the fair is over, they return to the dealer to be sold. Usually they return with around 100 hours on the clock. They get a 10 to 20% discount, along with a new warrenty. Good buy I think. In MOST cases, a new tractor that has a serious "flaw", will show that flaw in the first 100 hours.

I'd like-wise, suggest asking around at various dealers for lease returns, demo's, "fair tractors", or any other way to get a chunk taken off the price.

Nothing like new, but nothing like a bargain either!

 

[Soundguy]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Nothing like new, but nothing like a bargain either )</font>

You'd better believe it!

When I bought my NH 1920 from the dealer.. i had gone up to buy a 7900$ TC18 baskic gear model/2wd.. I ended up with a 9500$ 4wd tractor almost twice the hp... with 700 hours on it.

Previous owner scratched the paint here and there.. and took a year off the tire life.. and passed me a few thousand dollars off the price.. Same with my 7610s... prev owner bought it to mow orchards. He crumpled a fender and bent the canopy on limbs.. took it back for a 45hp tractor... I got a smokin deal on that unit.... All i had to do was beat out a dent or two, and re-run the wires for the headlamps on that fender!

In reality.. no way i could/would have bought that tractor at new price... hack off 6-7K$ though and a few hundred hours use and it makes you think a little bit harder... /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Soundguy