Sickle Bar Sickle bar mower questions

[Noodlearm]

I just purchased a sickle bar a 1960's sickle bar mower, the cutter is only about a year old and the machine seems to be in pretty good shape overall. My question is, is there any rule of thumb on HP to size like there is for rotary cutters. I know its a little late to ask since I have already purchased it (still haven't picked it up yet though), but will my CK30 be able to run it??

 

[OrangeGuy]

How large is the cutting bar? 5',6', 7' or 9'? HP won't be problem. 6' horse drawn mowers were easily pulled by two horses. Is it pull type or 3pt? 3pt might cause some problems if it if larger than 6". Not a power problem, but a weight problem. Extended cutter bar can act as a lever to tip tractor. Also check for attachment problems. I purchased a New Holland 451 3pt 7' sickle mower and found out it would not fit my new CUT.

OrangeGuy

 

[Noodlearm]

sorry about the lack of info. It is a pull type 7'. The brand name is New Idea I believe. I don't know the weight, but definately don't think that it will be a problem pulling it. Never thought about the arm acting as a tipper but I think the weight of my tractor should help there. Previous owner used a regular 540 rpm pto. If you need any other info, please let me know

 

[Farmwithjunk]

The cutter bar on a sickle bar mower, even 9'ers, isn't heavy enough to tip a tractor on it's own. I've got a New Holland 451 with a 9' bar. I can lift the cutter bar by myself. I'd guess it weighs in at around 120 -140lbs. I've seen (Haban?) sickle bars on lawn and garden tractors (usually 4' or 5'). There isn't much effort to powering one. Most have adjustable drives that allow full cutter speeds with less than 540 RPM PTO speeds because of the low power requirements. That allows low engine RPM's, saving fuel.

 

[OrangeGuy]

New Idea made good mowers. AGCO now owns New Idea. Your tractor should have no problem operating this 7' pull type mower.

OrangeGuy

 

[Noodlearm]

Thanks for the info. I had never heard of the brand. I won the bid on Ebay, the seller ended up being only 5 minutes from my house so I kind of pre-inspected it. I ended up paying $255, I don't know if thats good or bad. I know it works, have seen what he cut with it so I am not too upset even if I may have overpaid. I never even checked out prices on new ones.

 

[ArchyD]

I just purchased a used Sickle mower that appears to be a New Holland 451. It is older and in pretty poor condition. But the major question that I have is how to hook it up properly.

It is a three point mount, but has an extra bale in the front that folds down and appears to need to connect to something static on the tractor and a piece on the back of the unit that is attached to the front bale with a bar. Then there are the regular 3 pt attachment points. Also where should I look for the serial data plate to be located?

 

[Doc_Bob]

Pictures, I love pics.
Bob

 

[Farmwithjunk]

I just purchased a used Sickle mower that appears to be a New Holland 451. It is older and in pretty poor condition. But the major question that I have is how to hook it up properly.

It is a three point mount, but has an extra bale in the front that folds down and appears to need to connect to something static on the tractor and a piece on the back of the unit that is attached to the front bale with a bar. Then there are the regular 3 pt attachment points. Also where should I look for the serial data plate to be located?

That "bale" you're refering to attaches to the tractor where you ORDNARILY attach your 3-point top link. Then the top link attaches to the "bale", then attach the implement end of the top link to the rear "bale" on the mower. That mechanism is what raises the cutter bar when you lift your 3-point hitch. So, have I further confused you?

Serial data plate is on the main frame, on the left side standing behind the mower facing the back of the tractor. There was a model 450, very simular to the 451, then about mid production in the 451 series, a few changes made. Later models being heavier in the frame.

Good mowers. I've owned one since 1974. Cut a BUNCH of hay and a few pond banks with mine.

 

[ArchyD]

As this is my first exposure to a sickle bar mower and I don't have an owners manual, I am at a loss on this one.

If I understood you correctly, the first attachment is the top of the first "bale"
(what is the proper term for that?) to the top link connection point on the tractor. The second is the top link to the second connection point, and the two lift link points. And of course the PTO.

There is the piece on the rear of the unit that is connected to the first "bale" and moves with it. It has a hole on the extreme rear that is apparently a connection point for something. Can you tell me anything about that?
ArchyD

 

[Farmwithjunk]

As this is my first exposure to a sickle bar mower and I don't have an owners manual, I am at a loss on this one.

If I understood you correctly, the first attachment is the top of the first "bale"
(what is the proper term for that?) to the top link connection point on the tractor. The second is the top link to the second connection point, and the two lift link points. And of course the PTO.

There is the piece on the rear of the unit that is connected to the first "bale" and moves with it. It has a hole on the extreme rear that is apparently a connection point for something. Can you tell me anything about that?
ArchyD

That final part isn't registering with me. Are you speaking of a "hitch" that's located under the drive pulley? If so, that's an attachment point for a hay conditioner. Not real clear on what part you're refering to though. Sounds like you have the basic "hook up" part right so far.

 

[ArchyD]

Thanks so much for the help. I believe that you nailed it.The attachment point for the conditioner. I found the data plate under tons of paint and it is a 450, I haven't gotten the S/N from it yet. I will be working on this one for awhile. Rust, corrosion, stuck parts, all the things you would expect from a piece of old iron. Reminds me of my Cub on first receiving it.
ArchyD

 

[Toolguy]

Noodlearm,

Good luck with your new mower. I mowed a lot of hay with a New Idea trailer type mower with a 7' bar just like yours. It will take very little power. An 8N Ford would run it just fine. One thing I would caution you on is to be careful when lifting the bar up into transport postion. MAKE SURE YOU KEEP YOUR FINGERS OUT OF THE WAY WHEN YOU LIFT THE BAR FROM HORIZONTAL TO VERTICAL! Depending on where the cutter knife stops when you shut it off, it is possible for the knife to fall down as the bar is raised. If your fingers are in between the knives and the knife guards you will lose your fingers or if you are lucky you will only get them pinched badly.

Another thing to look for is to make sure that all of the knife guards are in line with each other. If one or more are bent up it will make the mower cut poorly and will accelerate the wear on the bar and knife. You should be able to move the knife back and forth in the bar by hand with very little effort if every thing is lined up properly. A little oil on the bar once in a while helps to make it run smooth, too. Keep the knives sharp and have fun.

Happy Mowing.

 

[Noodlearm]

Thanks, I have not had a chance to use the mower yet. I got it all set up, or so I thought, and hooked it up to the pto, started the pto and apparantly something wasn't right, now I need to call my BIL over to help me do some welding. I think I have to change a couple of stopper bolts near the gear box. I forgot that they were moved and the sleave had no room to operate. At least I hope that was the problem, otherwise I have no clue.

 

[jimmysisson]

I'll second that. Be very careful when you manually lift the arm, as the blades move relative to the bar and your fingers are no tougher than small brush.
Jim

 

[johnnylight]

old thread 3yrs


Does anyone have pictures?