Dirt Moving Should a box blade float?

[xring100]

If you shorten the toplink the front edge of the sideplates will contact and limit the amount of bite the cutting edge can have. The side plates will float the blade. I bought and hydraulic toplink with mine definitely worth it

 

[roadhunter]

I've had similar issues with my setup and have considered adding a set of skis to my boxblade to allow it to "float" instead of just dig in.

 

[DB Pilot]

I have the EA Land leveler for the L3800. Previously I spent hours and hours on my 1000' driveway. Fun for awhile, but it had to stop and that's why I got the Land leveler. Glad I have it as it really speeds up the driveway grooming process. Still I wish I had known about adjusting my little BX sized boxblade. Got to try out the top link adjusting when things dry up.

 

[gwdixon]

You do want to use it in float when smoothing a driveway. If it has dual cutting edges (one forward, one reverse) then lengthen your top link so that the front edge is not biting and the rear edge is feathering. That is a great way to smooth material. From there, gently shorten the link if you find you need more bite from the front edge (which will fill the box with more material).

The whole trick with a box blade is that once you get the cutting edge set where it should be, the box will remove material from high spots and redistribute to low spots. It works amazingly well at this. Practice until you get it perfect.

Ha, ha! You must have missed post #6. But your post confirms it for the OP.

 

[Tx Jim]

You do want to use it in float when smoothing a driveway.

I'm curious as to how you propose to not use the "float" on 99% of tractors that have been built???? Very few tractors that have a 3 pt that doesn't freely float IE no down pressure except for the weight of draft arms & attached implement!!!

 

[Bird]

When I put a hydraulic Top 'N Tilt on my Kubota, the box blade became very easy to use effectively. Before that it was a slow process for me because I'd have to keep adjusting the length of the top link manually.

 

[s219]

I'm curious as to how you propose to not use the "float" on 99% of tractors that have been built???? Very few tractors that have a 3 pt that doesn't freely float IE no down pressure except for the weight of draft arms & attached implement!!!

Yes, I undertand what you mean. Let's redefine my wording to say drop the hitch all the way so the box will almost always be in floating contact with the road surface.

I have seen/read plenty people here who grade with their box off the ground a bit, for whatever reason. In that case it's in "hover" much of the time unless they run into a high spot!

 

[JRobyn]

Welcome to TBN, Dave! :welcome:

The length of the top link is what will set the depth of the cut.... the longer the top link the more cut, shorten it up and it will cut less... You will normally set it up for the job you are doing using the top link and allow it to 'float' ... KennyV

At least with the double-edged type box blade )(, this is exactly backwards - lengthening the top link will tilt the box blade toward the back so that the rear blade sorta skims/floats/smooths the surface without cutting, and the cutting edge of the front blade is tilted up so that it doesn't contact and cut the surface. Shortening the top link will tilt the blade towards the front, which will cause the front blade to cut in and may dig in to some extent on soft surfaces. It is true that when the blade is tilted forward (shorter top link), the side plates will to some extent keep the front cutting edge from digging in too much, but my blade is heavy enough that the relatively thin side plates easily furrow themselves down into the surface so that there is not much "lift" that they provide.

- Jay

 

[22rimfire]

OK, maybe a dumb noob question but I'm curious, as I have a LP BB, but am thinking I'm going to need a grader also; Can the front blade on the BB be taken off, or even turned around for smoothing/grading? Might be a pain I know, but might also be a solution for those who don't (Yet), have the grader.

 

[s219]

OK, maybe a dumb noob question but I'm curious, as I have a LP BB, but am thinking I'm going to need a grader also; Can the front blade on the BB be taken off, or even turned around for smoothing/grading? Might be a pain I know, but might also be a solution for those who don't (Yet), have the grader.

If you have dual cutting edges, lengthening the top link will effectively get the front cutter off the ground so that the rear cutter feathers and smoothes. See above posts. No need to remove the front cutter at all.