Sharpening chainsaws
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dodge man
Super Star Member
I have a Dremmel like tool, it hooks up to a car, truck, or tractor battery so you can use it in the field, I don’t use it very often. I think hand sharpening is just as good and quick.
How often to sharpen? I usually sharpen every tank or at least every other tank of fuel. If you can keep the chain cutting nothing but wood you don’t have to sharpen often but that is tough. The log has dirt on it of it’s laying on the ground and at some point it’s going to touch something other than wood. I make three passes on every tooth with moderate pressure to light pressure unless it’s really dull, then I bear down a little.
The kit I got with my saw over 20 years ago.
How often to sharpen? I usually sharpen every tank or at least every other tank of fuel. If you can keep the chain cutting nothing but wood you don’t have to sharpen often but that is tough. The log has dirt on it of it’s laying on the ground and at some point it’s going to touch something other than wood. I make three passes on every tooth with moderate pressure to light pressure unless it’s really dull, then I bear down a little.
The kit I got with my saw over 20 years ago.
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Rockbadchild
Elite Member
I pretty much have to use it with two hand, and clamp the saw in the vice for it to be effective... I can file with one hand without the guide but I have difficulty keeping the angle constant that why I went to this guide. You will see shiny metal on your file when its worn out (the ''scales'' break exposing shiny metal) compare it to a new one you will see.whoops posted it twice. I have a guide like Jasper Frank and Rockbadchild. I didn't like it though very well. Maybe my file is just worn out. Thanks for all the advice
MH8675309
Platinum Member
I posted this some time back. It might help you some.
Get the right size file for your chain and drill a small hole in a golf ball - one that the sharp end of the file will stick into. Tap the the ball onto the end of the file and you got an instant handle that will work perfectly. Don't drill the hole too big. Clamp the bar tightly in a bench vise (make sure the vice doesn't keep the chain from rolling) Using the kickback for a brake file each tooth and then take the brake off and advance the chain to file the next section of chain. Make sure the chain is fairly tight on the bar and file each tooth using a motion that pushes and turns at the same time. DON'T use a sawing - back and forth motion- doesn't work very good that way. Try to maintain the angle that is already there and get in the habit of doing this often so that the chain doesn't get too mangled up. When you're done with that side take the saw out of the vice and do the other side. After some practice you'll be surprise how quick it is to touch up a chain. Remember too that the guys that use a machine are taking off more steel than you would using a file. Filing the chains gives more use since your not grinding off more than you need to.
Get the right size file for your chain and drill a small hole in a golf ball - one that the sharp end of the file will stick into. Tap the the ball onto the end of the file and you got an instant handle that will work perfectly. Don't drill the hole too big. Clamp the bar tightly in a bench vise (make sure the vice doesn't keep the chain from rolling) Using the kickback for a brake file each tooth and then take the brake off and advance the chain to file the next section of chain. Make sure the chain is fairly tight on the bar and file each tooth using a motion that pushes and turns at the same time. DON'T use a sawing - back and forth motion- doesn't work very good that way. Try to maintain the angle that is already there and get in the habit of doing this often so that the chain doesn't get too mangled up. When you're done with that side take the saw out of the vice and do the other side. After some practice you'll be surprise how quick it is to touch up a chain. Remember too that the guys that use a machine are taking off more steel than you would using a file. Filing the chains gives more use since your not grinding off more than you need to.
This is what I use as well. Always have good luck with it and it doesn’t take that long to do. I also have the raker depth guides that I use every other sharpening.
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... and for anyone reading about clamping a bar while filing, and wondering how you do that in the woods:
Available from many sources from $15 - $35.
Available from many sources from $15 - $35.
Rockbadchild
Elite Member
thanks for that, it just reminded me to purchase one
For a guy learning.
IMHO either the 2 in 1 if you cant get hand of just use a file guide with file and raker file. Pferd blue makes the ones for stihl too.
Once figure it out just a round file and raker file needed.
It's simple. Dont over think it.
I like both of these brands of files.
2nd and 4th ones in pic.
IMHO either the 2 in 1 if you cant get hand of just use a file guide with file and raker file. Pferd blue makes the ones for stihl too.
Once figure it out just a round file and raker file needed.
It's simple. Dont over think it.
I like both of these brands of files.
2nd and 4th ones in pic.
bdhsfz6
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I don't either. To minimize sharpening time, I switched to carbide chains. Yeah, they don't cut quite as well and need a diamond burr to sharpen, but it needs to be done a LOT less frequently.
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Agreed. I recommend one of these two (2-in-1 or Pferd) to every acquaintence who's learning to sharpen. Hard to beat.
No one ever complained about Swiss files! Of course, for every Grobet or Vallorbe out of Switzerland, there's been a Disston from Philadelphia, and a Nicholson or Simonds from Massachussetts.
Other than newer round files from Stihl and Oregon, all of my general files are vintage American brands. Handed down from father, grandfather, great-grandfather, and re-sharpened as needed. I don't know if any of those classic brands are still made in USA, but I'm pretty sure Disston's original Philly factory is long-gone.
Rustyiron
Super Member
Once you start seeing improvement in your sharpening no matter what tool you're using, it's easy for it to become a personal challenge to dial it in perfectly!
Consistency in your stroke (file running parallel and correctly in both the vertical and horizontal plain) and your understand these 2 goals it should all come together for you.
The first few filing guides shown above is what I'd suggest first. They'll assist with these angles. If you don't really understand what you're shooting for, the dremmel will not be any help.
IMHO the cheap carbide chains aint worth it. They fling the lee press on nails right off. 
That is one place where I will say. Stihl carbide worth the money.
IMHO unless cutting roots or very dirty sandy burnt up stuff. Still not worth it.
Get about 10 chains in rotation and carry extras to swap or even extra saws with ya.
Try to file carbide with diamond file or bit on dremel is joke at best.
My stihl carbide chains I get out once maybe in a year if unlucky.
I also use a diamond wheel for carbide chains.
That is one place where I will say. Stihl carbide worth the money.
IMHO unless cutting roots or very dirty sandy burnt up stuff. Still not worth it.
Get about 10 chains in rotation and carry extras to swap or even extra saws with ya.
Try to file carbide with diamond file or bit on dremel is joke at best.
My stihl carbide chains I get out once maybe in a year if unlucky.
I also use a diamond wheel for carbide chains.
CloverKnollFarms
Super Member
I can't say enough good things about my Granberg! Dial in your two angles and go at it. Also, you can dial in precisely the raker height.
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Runner
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This is how I do it. I like to mark the first tooth I file with a felt tip pen so I can easily see when I'm done. I also like to lightly drag a finger tip 90 degrees to each tooth to judge sharpness. If my finger slides easily with no friction, I give it another pass with the file.
Another thing, the teeth don't have to all be the same size, and some may require more passes with the file to get sharp than others.
Finally, I like to give the end of the file a tap and also brush down the length of it in between each tooth to get rid of any loose steel chips that accumulate in cutting face.
airbiscuit
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The rollers make the filing stroke smooth, and they tend to help you hold the angle.
dodge man
Super Star Member
Project Farm did a pretty good test on chains. He did a carbide chain too. He did something like run the chains in sand to dull them. This is where the carbide chain showed that it didn’t dull as easily. My take was as rule a carbide chain didn’t cut as well but where other chains would dull the carbide one would keep cutting.
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Suburban Plowboy
Veteran Member
The Pferd-style sharpener (copied by Stihl for more money) is the correct solution.
You don't need NASA-grade sharpening, and you don't need anything motorized or hard to use unless you're a pro sharpening 20 chains at a time.
As long as your saw throws big chips and cuts straight, it is sharp.
The Pferd type will sharpen your chisels just fine, and it will also take down your rakers, which is important. Takes 5 minutes, if that, and you do not need a ridiculous vise.
These other tools are mainly gimmicks.
You should sharpen your saw after every tank.
Don't listen to people who say you should only file on the push stroke. That's a myth, and it makes the process a pain. Just apply pressure and go back and forth. It will not dull your file faster.
FYI, heat is what kills chainsaws, and a dull chain will make your saw overheat, so when you use a dull chain, slow cutting is the least of the problems you are causing.
As long as I'm here, I'll point out that if you bought a consumer saw, you have a semi-chisel chain that cuts slowly but reduces accidents. It's a lawyer chain, not a logger chain. Best to replace it. It's like getting a bigger saw for $15.
Oh, also...always use the choke when you start. Always, even when the saw is hot. If it's hot, push the choke back in before pulling the cord. This sets the throttle so the saw will get gas when you pull. If you're not doing this, you don't know how to start a saw.
One more thing: saws do not have priming bulbs. They have purging bulbs. The purpose is to run fuel through the system to get the air out. It is IMPOSSIBLE to flood a saw using the bulb, and while manuals may say to pump it 6 times before starting, with some saws, you might as well go 20 to be safe.
Another great tip: if your bar gets pinched a lot, carry a spare bar and chain. And learn how to avoid pinching. And get yourself some wedges, if you forgot to buy them when you got the saw.
You don't need NASA-grade sharpening, and you don't need anything motorized or hard to use unless you're a pro sharpening 20 chains at a time.
As long as your saw throws big chips and cuts straight, it is sharp.
The Pferd type will sharpen your chisels just fine, and it will also take down your rakers, which is important. Takes 5 minutes, if that, and you do not need a ridiculous vise.
These other tools are mainly gimmicks.
You should sharpen your saw after every tank.
Don't listen to people who say you should only file on the push stroke. That's a myth, and it makes the process a pain. Just apply pressure and go back and forth. It will not dull your file faster.
FYI, heat is what kills chainsaws, and a dull chain will make your saw overheat, so when you use a dull chain, slow cutting is the least of the problems you are causing.
As long as I'm here, I'll point out that if you bought a consumer saw, you have a semi-chisel chain that cuts slowly but reduces accidents. It's a lawyer chain, not a logger chain. Best to replace it. It's like getting a bigger saw for $15.
Oh, also...always use the choke when you start. Always, even when the saw is hot. If it's hot, push the choke back in before pulling the cord. This sets the throttle so the saw will get gas when you pull. If you're not doing this, you don't know how to start a saw.
One more thing: saws do not have priming bulbs. They have purging bulbs. The purpose is to run fuel through the system to get the air out. It is IMPOSSIBLE to flood a saw using the bulb, and while manuals may say to pump it 6 times before starting, with some saws, you might as well go 20 to be safe.
Another great tip: if your bar gets pinched a lot, carry a spare bar and chain. And learn how to avoid pinching. And get yourself some wedges, if you forgot to buy them when you got the saw.
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