SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES

/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #1  

JHFV

Member
Joined
May 16, 2006
Messages
38
Location
ENNIS TEXAS
Tractor
mahindra 3525
Im restretching and putting up a bunch of new fence on my land. Its all field fence the kind with squares in it. Ive been nailing it to a 2x4 and pulling in it with the comealong, but it doesnt want to pull everything at the same time. I was wondering how you guys do it? Any tips I would appreciate! thanks
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #2  
For mine I took 2 2x4's and screwed them together with the end of the fence clamped between them. I put eye bolts on the top and bottom of the 2x4s and pulled with a come along.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #3  
I did mine the same way Shawn did his. Where possible, I hooked the come-a-long to the tractor and used the tractor to tighten it a little and then did the final tightening by cranking the come-a-long handle. It worked great.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #4  
I'm with Steve pretty much to the letter. Help a guy build fence just like that.. two, 2X's screwed together and pull with the tractor. Was a VERY nice fence when we were done.:D :D
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #5  
I built one of those stretchers with three hooks welded on a pc of pipe with a ring to hook the come-a-long to webed a pc of rebar through the fenceing and hooked the Hooks (loops) to and it worked well. jb
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #6  
I also use the 2x4s fastened together with eye bolts with the wire fence in between.

On the other hand, I don't hook it to the tractor, because its not heavy enough. When I'm cranking it tight, the tractor moves too. That does make it harder to tighten because I have to use some other post as the anchor, and there is not always one available. If it is on a straight section, there is no problem as I mount the fence to the one end (post) and tighten the other end of the wire fence(in the middle of the line of fence posts). Otherwise if I am at the other end (short fence) or going around a corner, I might not have a good anchor.

I tried using my wife's Silverado once, parked sideways, and it still moved the truck. And she doesn't like her baby out in the field.

Pete
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #7  
I have a rig like JohnD's. Works great with a chain looped thru it and hooked to the bucket.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #8  
I used two pieces of 1 X 2 rectangular tubing bolted together. I put a chain on each end and hook to the bucket hook. I ease the tractor back till it justs starts to get tight then curl the bucket back till it feels right.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #9  
A guy loaned this stretcher to my brother. The design looked so good I took some pics and may make one.
 

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/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #10  
I also use 2X4's with several bolts thru them. Then I wrap one end of a short chain near the top and the other end near the bottom. Then hook the come-a-long to the center of the chain.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #11  
Brad_Blazer said:
A guy loaned this stretcher to my brother. The design looked so good I took some pics and may make one.



That’s looks very well thought out, would save a lot of labor rolling out fence on the ground then trying to pick it up. I usually do fencing by myself which can be challenging, that idea is like having another person. I assume the only way to stretch the fence with that is by pulling with the tractor.


My local Tractor Supply Store sells two types of fence stretchers already built which I’ve considered buying, but that idea looks more interesting and an easy way to move left over rolls.


I do fencing several times a year and most recently stretched several 330’ rolls of field fence in one pull and 200’ no climb horse fence. I’ve used the bolted 2x4’s (kinda time consuming) nailed fence on to a post and pulled the post (time consuming and wasteful) and most recently used a heavy gauge 1.5” pipe weaved through the fencing then wrapped the cut ends (about 12”) back around the pipe and a few turns wrapped back on the strand itself, then hooking a chain around the middle of the pipe and placing the chain hooks on the top lip of the loader and backing the tractor to stretch (while hoping nothing breaks and comes flying back at you). Having a tractor with loader has made things much easier since you always have an anchor point anywhere and can raise or lower the loader if you need to adjust the height of the fence. I am finding it a bit hard to get a good feel for how tight to stretch with the tractor, I’m finding keeping in 2WD avoids over pulling as the wheels will start to spin, in 4wd I’ve torn the fence loose pulling too tight. I’ll be using the cumalong hooked to the loader in the future for better control of tension. Also can see the need for a brake pedal on the left side to control tension while you hit the brake and set the parking brake. My Kubota having the brake on the right along with the hydro pedal has me with two feet on the right side of the machine. I may have a look under the machine and see if there is enough room to run a connection shaft over to a left side brake pedal.



On the same theme....

Everyone has a little different twist on how to build strong corners that won’t pull over while stretching the fence. Would be interesting to see pics of how others build corners. On long runs I use 8’ long corner posts (7-9” or so dia) with 54-56” out of the ground, then a smaller second but heavy duty (4-5”) post with a horizontal post at 48-50” nailed between the two with 60-80d nails. I had been using standard 6’8” posts for the horizontal but will be using 8’ horizontal posts in the future (less angle on the diagonal 9ga wire should be stronger). I also reinforce that with 9 gauge wire wrapped around the corner post and nailed to the horizontal post to keep it from twisting. Then run a loop of 9ga. Wire on a diagonal from a point about 9-12” off the ground at the corner to about 6” down from the top of the post in the direction of the fencing....the diagonal has to be lower at the outside and slope upward in the direction of the pull....I have actually seen this done in the reverse which adds little or no triangulation pull out strength. I’ve experimented slightly over the past 16 years with different approaches, this works pretty well. I can still get over enthusiastic on occasion and stretch too hard and it will lift the end post out of the ground, but that is VERY tight fencing. Suppose using two 8’ corners would be best for long runs. Have also seen mobile home type anchors used mid way between the two corner posts used to tie off the diagonal 9ga wire. That approach seems to work well also.

My most recent corner was built with a 45 degree angle at the corner to make mowing into the corner easier, it was time consuming and used extra posts but I like the result so much I am going to do them all this way in the future on interior fencing. It also keeps my dogs from stopping at the corner and turning back which causes a wear hole in the ground, with an angled corner they run around the corner vs. stopping and turning.
 
/ SHARE YOUR FENCE SRETCHING TECHNIQUES #12  
Lets see a few more posts on how to stretch. I have used 2x4's bolted together both with 1 chain and 1 come-a-long hooked to looped chain. And 1 come-a-longs one top one bottom. Usually hook to tractor.

I have been told you should really only pull top wire and bottom wire and let middle strands tighten themselves???? Opinions on this please.

So I saw a Tuf-Tug wire clamp TTWC-1000 at tractor supply store and tried to use it but I can't get it to clamp and grip it well enough to pull hard. The clamp slips.

Look at Tuf-tug.com for pics.

I am not real happy with it right now anyone else tried it?

For corner braces I use a horizontal post about 48-54 inches high about 6 foot lenght and then run diagonal loop of heavy barbwire. I twist it tight with a piece of rebar and pin rebar behind one of the posts. I use a crowbar to pretighten the barbwire diagonal (staple it then twist ends together) and if need be put a couple of twist at one end then go to other. The barbs grip each other and help it stay twisted. The size of the corner posts and braces depend on length of pull and how tight I want it. 6-7" diameter post minimum. 10-12" preferred. I like to put several staples on each wire at corners and small posts may split.

I try to keep pulls straight as possibe and every 150-200 feet or so put a horizontal post brace with "X" of barbwire on long staight pulls. I use bungee cords to hold fence up working alone. It takes several trips of tightening come-a-long then walking fence and getting it to settle correctly.
 

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