setting trusses with only 2?

[mopower440]

chucko, already have the braces in the corners, kinda like your last pic, it seems where the sway is at the gable ends in the middle, at one gable end, there is a 16' opening for the garage door, and at the other end, the posts arent that deep..

 

[rambler]

You can add some more angled bracing, either 2x4s or the metal strap or cable or whatever fits into your budget & plans for finishing the interior. Bigger triangles make better bracing. As does tighter bracing.

Buildings really do move quite a bit. I have a 60 year old pig barn with the nails moving out - it will flop1 foot either side of center dependong on the wind. (Really need to get to re-bracing that one of these years...)

The sheet metal with screws will stiffen it a whole lot as others mention. Still the siding I would use. Perhaps a few more angle braces will make you feel better about it, esp with the short posts on one corner.

--->Paul

 

[mopower440]

you are talking about taking a 2x4 and going from the top of a corner post to the bottom of the next post, right?

 

[SPIKER]

MOPO:

you can brace the posts using metal rebar too, the first picture which is the X weld on some pads onto the ends of the rebar, then use lag bolts into the top & bottoms of the posts. each 1/2 of the X (either the / or the\ will be in tension and the pulling tension will keep it form moving )

the rocks should be drilled using a hammer drill and you can get anchor bolts to hold some steel angles to the posts, which will hold them down. use soem large lag bolts (preferably Stainless Steel ones into the posts and into the rocks use lead anchors or the drive in and tighten type, the epoxy stuff may not hold up as well. BUT since you are in a frost zone I would also epoxy the anchors to keep them in place incase water gets into the holes that the anchors are drilled into. which may freeze and crack/chip the rock!

anyhow once the sideing is up, you could remove the rebar X bracing and use it in the floor! lol. recycling is the best thing! anyhow I've stoo waiting for spring for my concrete work. I did get all the radiant tubeing for my barn floor this past wek deliverd though! (man the 3/4' stuff is HARD) using two lenghts for runs form & to the wood stove/boiler.)

Mark M /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

 

[mopower440]

went to order the metal roofing today and didnt do it..lol..! I cant make up my mind on what colors to use..this thing is close to my house so i want it to look good with the house, the house has brown shingles and the vinyl siding is like a REALLY light green, its called moss green but im telling you, its really light, if you know what the color 'light stone' looks like on metal roofing, its close to it. I just cant decide, there is a building down the road that has a forrest green metal roof and a darker color tan siding that looks awesome, but i dont know if a green roof would look right next to the brown roof on the house. This will be a big hold up, i hate decisions..

 

[Egon]

bright red

Egon

 

[Junkman]

Mopower....... at the speed that you are completing this barn, it won't matter what color the roof is. By the time you have it done, you will be so old that your eye sight will be failing and you won't be able to see the roof from the house. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[Inspector507]

I'd go with the green roofing and tan siding /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 

[KiotiJohn]

My brother manufactures sheet metal roofing. One day we had a discussion about which colors absorb the most heat, if that is a concern of yours. He stated that a study was done and the forest green was the hottest color. I would have thought the red. It's a barn, why not just use the galvanized look which pretty much goes with any other colors and won't heat up the barn so much on those hot hot summer days. John

 

[mopower440]

get this, that pretty building only 5 miles down the road, its a sales place for metal roofing and siding and windows and stuff..lol..lol.. and they are cheaper than anyone ive found! I stopped in today, herse the deal, i can get it with a 25 year warranty for 1.50 a linear foot, 5 year warranty for 1.32 a linear foot, or no warranty for 1.20 a linear foot, and this is most colors, now, i asked him several times if its the same, galvalume colored metal panels no matter what price i go with, he says yes, just the warranty..im hoping hes telling the truth because usually the cheaper ones are painted galvanized panels and not galvalume, what is the difference anyways just in case hes wrong? will one rust before the other? wich they shouldnt rust anyways being painted..but

 

[Inspector507]

If it's the same steel.......think of it like this.......
The painted steel is going to cost you $1.20 a foot, you're on your own
If you want a little extended warranty, fork over $.12 a foot and if anything goes wrong in 5 years, it's covered.
If you want a better warranty(insurance) fork over a total of $.30 a foot and it's covered for 25 years.

 

[mopower440]

he syas its the same, but i talked with another place yesterday that pretty much had the same deal and they said that the difference was that the higher price was galvalume and the cheapest was galvanized, both were painted, so im thinking this might be the same deal, so just in case, i was wondering the difference between the 2..

 

[BXMMCC]

Galvalume is a registered trademark - here's a website that has all you need to know about steel roofing and siding.
steel roofing and siding

 

[mopower440]

Thanks for the link! seems galvalume is 55% aluminum, so thats good, and a regular galvanIZED sheet is just regular steel coated with something, not good, prone to rust! Now i am trying to figure out if i should nail or screw this stuff down to the purlins,

 

[OkeeDon]

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Thanks for the link! seems galvalume is 55% aluminum, so thats good, and a regular galvanIZED sheet is just regular steel coated with something, not good, prone to rust! )</font>

I think you'll find that it's the coating that is 55% aluminum and 45% galvanize; the sheet is still just regular steel coated with the galvalume.

 

[mopower440]

i see..

 

[GrayBeard]

You definately want to screw it down.
The screws normally have a rubber crown washer to seal them up and can be bought in different colors.
GrayBeard

 

[chucko]

Sweep the roof after you are done or all thos little shavings from screwing and cutting will rust not matter what it is coated in

 

[EddieWalker]

Don't even think of nailing it down!

The screws are the first place to rust. Get the best screws you can find. Money isn't an issue here. The price difference won't be much anyway.

 

[mopower440]

screws it is!, next thing, i have a pole barn book im going by and i see that the way it is built in the book, it doesnt have an overhang on the gable ends and he uses a trim peice that folds around the edge of the roofline on the gable ends, on my building, i am having 1' overhangs on the gable ends, i let the purlins hang over 10 1/2" like on the eaves, i then will nail the facia board to the sticking out purlins and then start the roof metal even with the facia board, now, do i still use that trim piece even when i have an overhang on the gables or is that just for a non-overhang building? I plan on using that soffit metal on the eave overhangs.