Selecting a quality enclosed trailer

[jeffah]

I'm looking for some input. While shopping for a trailer I have seen a broad range of prices, features and options. What are the most important things to look for when selecting an enclosed trailer that I want to last for years.

I am looking for a 7x14 7000 lb dual axle enclosed trailer. I'm pretty sure I want brakes on both axles, and maybe a slightly 'overbuilt' trailer even if it weighs a bit more and reduces my payload slightly.

The trailer will be used once every week or so for business and personal use moving building materials or furniture. Mostly short hauls close to home, but I wouldn't rule out longer distances on occasion.

After weeks of research I just can't sort of the deals from the garbage. How important is axle brand, frame type and size, roof type, stud spacing, wall, ceiling and floor material etc.

Thanks

 

[Diamondpilot]

A fully wrapped tongue is important. Radial tires are important. Axle brands no so much. ALKO, Dexter, ect are all ok.

Look for quality fit and finish and a good wiring job.

Chris

 

[3930dave]

Consider all aluminum trailers. Lighter to tow empty, and for the extra money, you get more payload.

At 7,000#, if you don't know the regs well in your home State, and any others you plan on using the trailer in.... some due diligence is in order. Some jurisdicitions are getting right nasty about anything over 10,000# combined weight.

Rgds, D.

 

[imgone52]

One good way to figure out the good brands to look at is to pay attention to what the contractors (carpenters, electricians and the like) in your area are using. Perhaps, even engaging them in conversation about their rigs (and dealers) and how satisfied they are. Good luck with your quest.

 

[Dishpointer]

I would also recommend getting pressure treated flooring since you will be using it quite often. Most companies use regular plywood. The last thing you want to deal with is changing out a rotted floor when the side walls are built on top of it. For a few extra bucks, it's one thing to get and not have to worry about.

 

[Cat_Driver]

Consider all aluminum trailers. Lighter to tow empty, and for the extra money, you get more payload.

At 7,000#, if you don't know the regs well in your home State, and any others you plan on using the trailer in.... some due diligence is in order. Some jurisdicitions are getting right nasty about anything over 10,000# combined weight.

Rgds, D.

I just quoted out a full aluminum dump trailer for that reason, compared to steel. Both same specs - Steel was $7,000 - All aluminum was $14,000. My question is who is buying all aluminum trailers that are twice the price of steel.

 

[newbury]

Other considerations:
Clearance - Do you want drop axles? Do you need more clearance?
My BIL has an 8x20 w/ drop axles that barely clears a pack of cigarettes, not good for rough construction sites. For my applications that won't do
Do you want the door to drop down as a ramp or open up and have your own ramps, perhaps slideout?

You probably want LED's for lights but do you need interior light and power? I'd get an interior strip put in at the start.

 

[3930dave]

I just quoted out a full aluminum dump trailer for that reason, compared to steel. Both same specs - Steel was $7,000 - All aluminum was $14,000. My question is who is buying all aluminum trailers that are twice the price of steel.

Haven't priced those myself, the lighter (than dump) trailers I was looking at listed at maybe 50% over steel, but that was a while ago.

As fuel stays up/increases, more people are going to bite the aluminum bullet. Note I said more, not a lot . A big production example is Ford, with the F150.

Like any expense, deciding to pay for aluminum will depend a lot on intended use. Buddy of mine did a lot of shopping around to find a New Old Stock single axle enclosed aluminum trailer. Running that around to MX tracks all over half the continent, the higher (but a great price for aluminum) price of his trailer was paid for long ago.

OP didn't mention budget..... I mentioned aluminum as one thing I'd seriously consider, if I had the money at my disposal.

Jeffah - I meant to vote for definitely brakes on both axles - I'd personally never buy a new trailer w/o spec'ing it that way. You can always dial back the brake controller, but other than throwing out an anchor, it's pretty hard to add brakes once rolling !

One more thing on brakes.... I noticed a while ago that Dexter had optional self-adjusting brake assemblies. I haven't used them myself, but as long as you find no problems reported (my expectation is that Dexter did it right), I'd consider spec'ing them onto a trailer-to-order (meaning yet to be built). Normal trailer brakes aren't a big deal to adjust; it's just another maintenance item that a lot of people skip/ignore.

Rgds, D.

 

[brokenknee]

In MN brakes are required on all axles anything that is rated over 3,000 #. That being said I think most manufactures now have them on both axles; your only worry would be if you purchased a used trailer then that may not be the case.

 

[Xfaxman]

I bought a used 8x20 extra tall, Express when we moved. The guy that I bought it from decided he wanted it back, so I sold it to him.


Their Website: Express Trailers

 

[Diamondpilot]

Aluminum is not much a weight savings. A I have one. It's 1,350# and a comparable steel is 1,600#. The savings is rust prevention. That being said I have 3 trailers and the other two are steel. My next purchase will be steel.


Chris

 

[HHR]

If you are looking at trailers that are under 7,000 pounds, aluminum is a good option. When you start getting into the 10-12K range, the aluminum trailers really get bulky In order to hold up to big tongue loads and weight shifts that HD trailers regularly see. Our local rental yard has been using the same fleet of Aluma brand enclosed trailers for the last 10 years and they are holding up quite well considering the abuse they get. I would also recommend getting a V-nose trailer (your truck will thank you).

 

[JJZ 109]

I would advise going with the lowest height practical for you. I say this because I just arrived in Florida for a vacation, having towed a 7x14 American Hauler Night Hawk. Inside height of the trailer is 7'. It has a slight V nose. My 2013 F150 5.0 got 8-9 MPG pulling it. I knew the mileage would drop considerably, but did not think as much as it did. The 6 speed spent most of its time in 4th. I think the resistance from the extra height and not as acute of a V nose was a big culprit, but maybe I expected too much from the 5.0. The trailer had just under 1400 pounds of motorcycles and luggage for 2 in it.
My business trailer is a 7x18 Kristi. Only 6' high inside. Sharp V nose with front & rear ramp doors. It pulls much easier & smoother than the 14' AH. As soon as I'm home from vacation, the AH is on Craigslist. I've already been in touch with my Kristi dealer about a 7x14.

 

[Diamondpilot]

I would advise going with the lowest height practical for you. I say this because I just arrived in Florida for a vacation, having towed a 7x14 American Hauler Night Hawk. Inside height of the trailer is 7'. It has a slight V nose. My 2013 F150 5.0 got 8-9 MPG pulling it. I knew the mileage would drop considerably, but did not think as much as it did. The 6 speed spent most of its time in 4th. I think the resistance from the extra height and not as acute of a V nose was a big culprit, but maybe I expected too much from the 5.0. The trailer had just under 1400 pounds of motorcycles and luggage for 2 in it. My business trailer is a 7x18 Kristi. Only 6' high inside. Sharp V nose with front & rear ramp doors. It pulls much easier & smoother than the 14' AH. As soon as I'm home from vacation, the AH is on Craigslist. I've already been in touch with my Kristi dealer about a 7x14.

Has nothing to to with the nose, it's the back that creates all the drag. Look at any commercial jet airplane. It's blunt in the front but tapered to a point in the tail. You can see the eddies of drag if you drive a boat at 5 mph through the lake. Watch the back end, it has currents of turbulence which creates drag. This is the same for any object that moves through air or water. Look at a racing yacht (sailboat), or one of them 6 man rowing boats, they are tapered in the back. Same with a Formula One Car or Indy Car.

That trailer would not have mattered if you had 6500# in it or the 1400# you had, you are only going to get 8-9 mpg pulling it. I have a Bachelor a Degree in Aero Space and a Masters in Aeronautical Engineering. I have spent nearly 10 years studying aircraft design, automobiles, boats, and about everything else that moves through air or water and it's always the same answer. A tapered tail gives much more return on investment then a tapered front by about 5 fold!

One other trivia fact. We did a comparison with a solid 5' tall by 7' wide gate on a trailer. It had less drag at a 75deg angle vs a mesh gate of the same size set at a 75deg angle.

Chris

 

[jeffah]

Thanks for the help, is the type of frame a relevant consideration? I see everything from Tubular to I beam to channel.

I'm towing with a 3/4 ton truck so weight isn't a huge consideration. I have thought seriously about a 10000 lb trailer just for a safety factor.

 

[JJZ 109]

Chris - On the trip down I noticed some tractor trailers (van trailers) with some kind of device on the rear of the trailer. I don't recall the brand name, but apparently the intent was to change the aerodynamics at the rear of the trailer.
Also, I've heard several guys swear that a flat nose enclosed trailer pulls better and sways less in the wind thn a V nose. All I know from personal experience with the 4 enclosed I've owned is that the lower profile/sharper V pulls better than the others did.

 

[Diamondpilot]

Thanks for the help, is the type of frame a relevant consideration? I see everything from Tubular to I beam to channel.

I'm towing with a 3/4 ton truck so weight isn't a huge consideration. I have thought seriously about a 10000 lb trailer just for a safety factor.

I'm not a fan of tubular. It rust from inside out and by the time it shows its face it's too late. I personally have one of each of the 3 you listed. But far my favorite is the channel for its finished appearance, strength, weight trade offs.

Chris

 

[Diamondpilot]

Chris - On the trip down I noticed some tractor trailers (van trailers) with some kind of device on the rear of the trailer. I don't recall the brand name, but apparently the intent was to change the aerodynamics at the rear of the trailer.
Also, I've heard several guys swear that a flat nose enclosed trailer pulls better and sways less in the wind thn a V nose. All I know from personal experience with the 4 enclosed I've owned is that the lower profile/sharper V pulls better than the others did.

Yes, many new semi trailers and high end campers are now using skirting and air deflectors in the rear to smooth out the air disturbances. For a trucker a 3% increase driving 500 miles a day at 7 mpg with diesel at $4 per gallon would equate in $20 per day savings or 1/2 mpg better with that meager 3% increase.

Chris

 

[JJZ 109]

Yes, many new semi trailers and high end campers are now using skirting and air deflectors in the rear to smooth out the air disturbances. For a trucker a 3% increase driving 500 miles a day at 7 mpg with diesel at $4 per gallon would equate in $20 per day savings or 1/2 mpg better with that meager 3% increase.

Chris

Not likely, but maybe an option:
Enclosed Car Race Trailers

 

[masscity]

I have a Haulmark aluminum shell and steel frame 7x14 7' inside height enclosed rounded front trailer. I pull it with my 1997 Dodge 2500 Cummins.

Empty I get 15.5 mpg and loaded I get 14.5 mpg. I think the trailer is 8' 4" high.