Sedentary?

[big bubba]

good deal, i understand a lot of fuel problems occur in larger tank storage, i feel that an overall field tested fuel treatment as well as occasional runs will do you fine.

i think by doing your homework here on the forum, you'll keep the tractor in good shape. after all, look at how long dealership models (esp 2nd hand) are stationary for long periods.

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I add some Heavy Duty Oil Stabilizer – Lucas Oil Products, Inc. – Keep That Engine Alive! to my engine oil, as has been mentioned, starting after sitting for awhile, is hard on the engine ...

I also use Everyday Diesel Treatment (EDT) | Top Diesel Fuel Additive in the summer, I use there anti-gel in the winter, you probably wouldn't need that down there as your winters aren't that cold usually (just don't use it that week it's cold!) ... It adds the lubricant back in the fuel that the Ultra Low Sulfur Diesel (ULSD) takes out, adds a water separating mix, and centane boost which helps easy starting ...

I only used this Biobor JF – Biobor Fuel Additives once when I was experimenting with used vegetable oil and bio diesel in my Mercedes Benz, and acquired the black plague of diesel fuel, which are tiny microbes that live in a thin layer where water and diesel fuel meet (if you have water in the fuel, either from condensation or bad fuel supplier!) and the microbes eat the diesel fuels and there waste and eventually there dead bodies turn into a black slime that plugs up your filters and messes up your injectors, and possibly the injector pump too!

 

[Little Red Tractor]

Agree 100%.

Also agree. Mine sits for weeks at a time. No issues.

 

[Jaygyver]

Be careful of starting it randomly as it takes quite a bit of juice to get it started and if you don't run it long enough it may not charge the battery back to a full charge. Also running it long enough to warm up and get rid of any moisture in the oil helps too.

I live in the PNW and I've not had any issues with "diesel slim" since I've bought my little JD-770 and I may not use it for 3 or 4 months in the winter. That being said when I bought my new LS a few years ago I pulled the gas tank strainer out the first year I had it and it looked like it had a few spots of slim on it. Maybe it needs a bit more heat than we have here to get too bad. I just use StaBil storage all year round and seems to work fine.

If you have electricity at the shed then a name brand trickle charger would be great. I've had 50% luck on cheap Chinese trickle chargers so I just bit the bullet and got a couple of better ones, one less thing to worry about.
As far as solar, I had a HF one for my old '84 ranger years ago and it worked great, gave both to my kid and bought more for my other trucks that sits more than it runs and mowers that sit over the winter. They work great on the mowers/sxs but can't keep up on my '98 f150 and useless on my in-laws 2003 GMC. I'm guessing with all the electronics that run in the back ground on the GMC (and newer vehicles) it can't keep up.
Being in direct sun for most of the day is a main requirement for the best charge. Tractors are stored in an unheated shop and no access to sun but I would imagine solar would be ok on them.

 

[Portals]

Good point, Big Bubba! Had not thought of the dealers. But, then again, I don't know what dealers do with them after hours. Maybe run them after hours. Or as demos to customers.
Shawn, that proves my point - I never would make it as a creator, 'cause I never would have thought to make microbes that live between water and diesel, who eat the diesel. i mean, I pay attention to detail, but that is extreme!

Ran it today. Started on the first try, second turn-over. Is 20 minutes enough to run it, just to run it?

 

[SmallChange]

A battery tender (not a charger) is a good idea. Also, depending on how bad downtime is, you may want to schedule battery replacements every 3 years or so -- I do this, because it's cheaper than coping with (for example) not being able to clear your driveway and therefore not being able to replace a dead battery.

I'm convinced that if a FEL is parked such that the rod end of cylinders is at a negative pressure, air can slowly seep into the seal. This makes the hydraulic motion all spongy and loose until you work the bubbles out. My last thing before shutting down the engine is getting all the FEL cylinders in tension (and the bucket on the ground). In tension, the cylinders have oil pressure behind the seal, even if only a little bit. Seals work much better at keeping oil in than at keeping air our.

With these measures I find the machine seems fine even if a few weeks pass.

Perhaps the next problem would be tires developing flat spots?

 

[vic4news]

Also, depending on how bad downtime is, you may want to schedule battery replacements every 3 years or so -- I do this, because it's cheaper than coping with (for example) not being able to clear your driveway and therefore not being able to replace a dead battery.

This seems wasteful to me. You can buy an Ancel BA101 load tester for $30 and quickly test your battery to see if is starting to fail.

My original battery lasted 11 years. My current battery is 8 years old. No need to replace them when they still pass a load test.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Ran it today. Started on the first try, second turn-over. Is 20 minutes enough to run it, just to run it?

If somehow the oil gets up to temp in 20 minutes, yes it's enough.

But I seriously doubt that it warms up that quickly.

 

[Portals]

Thanks for your help!
My battery was on the tractor when I bought it - about 10 years ago. And it works great! [If it ain't broke, don't fix it!]

And, sorry, but I don't know what "up to temp" IS? Plus I don't have a way of measuring it. The temp gauge is an analog readout - an arc with a mark about halfway between "C" and "H". The outside temp was about 75. After about 7 minutes it indicated just below the halfway mark. Ran it for almost an hour and it never got above that mark.

Appreciate all the input!

 

[Shawn T. W.]

Then I'd say half way up, is up to temperature for your tractor and gauge.

If you're gonna run it just to run it, put it in gear and take it from a drive, turn the axles and tires, enjoy the scenery!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

And, sorry, but I don't know what "up to temp" IS? Plus I don't have a way of measuring it. The temp gauge is an analog readout - an arc with a mark about halfway between "C" and "H".

"Up to temp" is warm enough to make any moisture in the oil boil off, and really has nothing to to with the coolant temp.

 

[Bocephous]

This seems wasteful to me. You can buy an Ancel BA101 load tester for $30 and quickly test your battery to see if is starting to fail.

My original battery lasted 11 years. My current battery is 8 years old. No need to replace them when they still pass a load test.

I have 14 years on the original battery so far on my 4047h and it goes months sometimes in the winter with no use. It stays on a battery tender, tractor is parked in an outdoor unheated garage.

 

[Ricn]

Both my farm tractors sit inside when not being used. trying to learm more about battery tenders for both instead of charging them each spring. Starting them up is a no-no unless they are going out to work. So far, and for many years now have not had mice issues although they do get in the shop at times where the cats are looking for them.

 

[Too many Kubotas]

Check out BatteryMINDer.

I've had very good luck with them for decades now - long battery lives, partially because of the desulfation function, and no failures so far.

 

[Portals]

This is good news! Although I guess it is only news to us rookies.
Do you think enough of your battery and/or tender to recommend them by name?

Then again, if yours lasted 10 years, it may not be manufactured anymore...

 

[Shawn T. W.]

I have three of the BatteryMINDer's 4-8 years old ... Still working great!

 

[Too many Kubotas]

This is good news! Although I guess it is only news to us rookies.
Do you think enough of your battery and/or tender to recommend them by name?

Then again, if yours lasted 10 years, it may not be manufactured anymore...

In my case the oldest ones are about 30 years old no, and I just noticed that they've added a temp sensor to the old style. Still $40, and often for sale for $20.