eBay/Craigslist Satoh S-650G - Hello -

[stnbenn]

I was in need of a coupling for the hydraulic pump, and could only find used ones or rusty ones at pretty hefty prices. I spent a little time drawing up a coupling for the hydraulic pump based on the one I had on hand. This was a used coupling but I was able to get some accurate dimentions on the part that wasn't worn too badly. I also designed it a little longer to be able to get more grip on the drive and driven shaft, and added a couple more clamp holes. I also made it in American decimal standards rather than Metric. Convert the dimentions to metric if you wish. I had on hand and used 1 1/2" x 3/8" hot rolled bar steel, though I believe 1 1/4" x 3/8" thichness would work fine.

I based the fabrication of the coupling by simply milling a slot in a length long enough to get at least two blocks (one top and bottom) out of the length. If you machine it or have it done, it would be wise to make the length long enough for several complete sets. If you use my drawing, note that it is not to scale, and based on my dimentions. Measure your coupling so that you do not ruin good steel stock in case my coupling is different than yours.

I could not locate any drawings for the original couplings, so I based mine on the worn out couplings that came with the tractor. Ony one was salvageable after flame welding, grinding and filing.

Attached is the drawing and if someone has a drawing or info on these couplings, please post if you have any dimentions or info. Thanks for looking.

 

[stnbenn]

Here are some more photo's of the homemade drivers that came as spare parts for the S650G. There are a couple welded up drivers consisting of a 1/2" bolt welded to a plate to attach to the drive pully. The bolt used is a grade 5. I welded up the worn coupling slot and filed it to fit, in order to have a spare, and low and behold I need to install it as the one that came on the tractor wore out after a couple hours use. I did find a drawing that gives the dimention of the shaft of the pump, however my shaft is slightly worn somewhat so I adjusted the coupling slot to match my worn dimention. Hope this info helps someone to determine what options are out there for scarce parts for the tractors. The pump selection, the driver mechanism, and coupling originally installed on these was a poor design and choice. A better option would have been at least a longer shaft on the pump, or a belt driven double pully pump mounted on the side. The hard piped hydraulic pipe on the present pump, leaves little choice to a simple redesign. Oh well, just do the best you can with what you have to work with.

 

[Sonny580]

The rusty coupling looks like the style on mine.I had to take it apart to put on a new fan belt! --- The coupling idea looked like an after thought! AND the steel lines make it a bear to wiggle around!

 

[PILOON]

My Mitsubishi has a similar crankshaft mounted pump except I have a U-Joint to drive it off of my crankshaft pully.
I DIY'd it myself some 18 years ago and never have had any trouble.
It was a great improvement over the engine pump which was not fast enough.
My FEL has its own oil reservoir in one of the 'posts' so my FEL system is totally independent from the tractor supply.

That leaves my engine pump to operate the 3-point and rear auxiliary outlet.
I still plan to add power steering and have the needed parts to do so.
Just need the time meanwhile I have developed good arm muscles.

While slow the rear aux powers my 3-point log splitter for the occasions that I use it.

 

[stnbenn]

Wish there was a way to drive my Bison with a different coupling but the frame mounted, direct drive pump with that small shaft makes it almost impossible. If I keep this tractor, I may investigate using a side mount, pump with double shive.

Piloon, could you post a photo of your coupling etc? Thanks.

Sonny I agree that the rusty block coupling is at best a poor setup from the gitgo.

 

[PILOON]

Kind of difficult with lots of snow here, but I mounted on the front FEL cross bar and used the factory C/Shaft fitting.
My coupler has a splined shaft and Ujoint so mounting was not very critical.
I'd suggest that most power steering Ujoint shafts would offer the same criteria.
Naturally if U weld it becomes easier to adapt.
My pump is sitting on my FEL frame cross member which is about 8 ins ahead of te engine crankshaft pulley.
I actually also welded a protection plate ahead of the pump to avoid damage to the pump.

 

[stnbenn]

Thank, I guess the weather is quite different there than in Mid Florida.

 

[Compact Driver]

Just checking in. Had to put this project on the back burner for now. When I get back to it I'll post some more. :2cents:

 

[Sonny580]

compact driver,--- glad to see you are still among us! --- Fully understand the back burner thingy! LOL!!

 

[stnbenn]

Just checking in. Had to put this project on the back burner for now. When I get back to it I'll post some more. :2cents:

Thanks

 

[stnbenn]

I forgot how to edit my posts. I need to replace a photo in one of my posts but I see no way to do that. I did a search on how to edit, but go no results.
Seems to be no instructions or help section for posting, editing or anything like that. Getting too old for this I guess.

 

[Sonny580]

I can't find any edit button either! LOL!! --- Never noticed that before! HMMMM! interesting! O.k., just found one BUT its only there til the next post goes up!--- or for a timed period!

 

[stnbenn]

I cannot seem to find any help with posting, my problem with editing, etc. Guess I will find another forum that is not quite as secretive with these features. See ya guys.

 

[stnbenn]

Had a bearing go bad on the idler takeup for the govenor/water pump drive. For anyones info the bearing is a Koyo 6204.RU. I bought (4) 6204 2RS sealed bearings for $9.84 total and free shipping for the four. (4 pcs 6204 2RS double rubber sealed ball bearing, 20x 47x 14 mm) You can buy a single bearing for as low as $5.99 with free shipping but I opted for having spares for a few bucks more. Perfect fit and had them in three days.

 

[stnbenn]

Another quick note, I have modified the block coupling for the hydraulic coupling and will post a couple photos hopefully tomorrow. The way I modified it should help with the grip on the pump end. The pump only has about 1/2" of shaft showing to grip to and hopefully my mod adds more life to the coupling block on the shaft end. Stay tuned....

 

[Sonny580]

I noticed on mine when I put the new fan belt on that not much shaft went into either end of the coupling!

 

[stnbenn]

On mine the coupling only grips about 5/16-3/8" of the pump shaft. I installed the modified coupling and that seems to work pretty well. Now I think I have air in the hydraulic system as the loader will lift but will not lower until I shut the motor off, then it will lower from its weight when I operate the lowering lever on the valve. The bucket will not curl at all. I think I let the hyd oil get too low and got air in system. Was working OK before this happened, then started acting up and I topped off the oil level. It was 95 in the woods so thought I would try bleeding the air out this morning while it is cooler. Tired of messing with this tractor for the last three months. May sell it and get something I can use rather than work on.

I have been playing around with couplings and the driver that bolts on the crankshat pulley, and will post some photos of my contraptions and ideas. I got a few spare parts when I bought the tractor and now see why he had trouble with the pump drive mechanism.

 

[stnbenn]

Well i'm a little embarresed to admit, but my hydraulic problem was nothing more than the three point hitch control arm was in the down position and robbing pressure to the loader. I'm glad it was that simple, but kinda embarresed. That said everything works great now. I'm burnt out on this project so i'm putting it up on Craigslist to sell the tractor, loader, and the 5' brush chopper. Going to get something I don't have to work on all the time.

 

[Sonny580]

Glad you found the problem! ---My 650 is down, the engine overheats and water is standing behind the head. ---never used to do it that bad, could run an hour or so, now cant make one pass across the garden with it. Really miss it on the big tiller too, It has the low speed to do excellent job on the tiller, nice and slow!
Don't know if head gasket is leaking or what.

 

[stnbenn]

Hey Sonny its been a while that we were posting on the Bison tractors. I sold mine shortly after my last post and since then have bought and restored a Yanmar YM1500 2 wheel drive. Now I just bought a real orphan compact tractor. I bought a Rhino International 2224 which is a 4x4 but missing front drive shaft. I came with a Koyker 155 loader and finally got the cylinders rebuilt so that it doesnt puke hydraulic fluid. I've only had it for a month so not a lot accomplished on it.

Did you ever get your overheat problem figured out on your Bison?