Rounded off drain plug

[Big Barn]

I hope Kando gets the drain plug out soon. If not this thread is going to turn into a lot of pictures of people standing on knipex, channel locks, and other various tools just to show that the tool can support them. Sorry I couldn’t resist saying that, but that’s the first thing that popped in my head when I saw the 2 pictures of people standing on pliers.

Yes, but I think the point being made was there are some among us who feel those particular tools (or a correctly sized pipe wrench) will continue to maintain grip on the plug regardless of the forces applied to it.

 

[/pine]

Besides all the goofy posts (and post count bed wetters )...most are missing the big picture and not realizing that it's the condition of the exposed plug that is the issue...the gripping power of any of the applicable tools is a moot point...reducing the mass (to shape it) of the exposed plug end is only going to increase the odds if it shearing off the bulk of the plug...

Again (and with others that have said the same)...I would use an appropriately sized pipe wrench on the threaded part of the plug...I understand that there is an estimated (by the OP) 1/4" of original plug threads...but properly applied with the right sized wrench it is a viable approach if done judiciously...

 

[Big Barn]

Besides all the goofy posts (and post count bed wetters )...most are missing the big picture and not realizing that it's the condition of the exposed plug that is the issue...the gripping power of any of the applicable tools is a moot point...reducing the mass (to shape it) of the exposed plug end is only going to increase the odds if it shearing off the bulk of the plug...

Again (and with others that have said the same)...I would use an appropriately sized pipe wrench on the threaded part of the plug...I understand that there is an estimated (by the OP) 1/4" of original plug threads...but properly applied with the right sized wrench it is a viable approach if done judiciously...

With the aid of heat. Ten seconds with an oxy-acet torch or an induction heating tool like dragoneggs posted. NOT a slow heating propane torch or similar.

 

[goeduck]

I would use an appropriately sized pipe wrench on the threaded part of the plug...I understand that there is an estimated (by the OP) 1/4" of original plug threads...but properly applied with the right sized wrench it is a viable approach if done judiciously...

For anyone to take this seriously, could you include a picture while standing a similarly applied pipe wrench? Otherwise it could be construed as just another goofy post. :confused2:

 

[k0ua]

With the aid of heat. Ten seconds with an oxy-acet torch or an induction heating tool like dragoneggs posted. NOT a slow heating propane torch or similar.

That, and a pipe wrench and that thing would be out in seconds, or I would know the reason why.

 

[goeduck]

1750 in view

 

[YLee Kioti]

Are you suggesting that he should have tipped the tractor on it's side and stood on the pipe wrench a long time ago?

I'm really shocked we don't have a Texas Aggie jumping in on this one.
This is the perfect undergrad project!!!

 

[goeduck]

I'm really shocked we don't have a Texas Aggie jumping in on this one.
This is the perfect undergrad project!!!

Yes, thesis material :thumbsup:

 

[Tractor Seabee]

Back to the beginnings:
- Kando has already used a pipe wrench on the plug flats and succeeded in grinding away all the meat of the square wrench flats
- There is a cross member that prevents getting a straight angle on the plug with any tool
- Unless a pipe wrench can get the full flat of the jaws on the culprit item, and especially working on an angle, the grinding action is very effective at reducing the plug cross section more
- The pan with the plug in contention is still full of liquid that tends to absorb any attempt at using heat

So; I still contend drilling it out is the best solution, after you unbolt or cut the offending cross member out of the way. Drill a small hole first to drain out the fluid running down your arms. I have already posted a couple ways to effectively accomplish such. If Kando asks, I will repeat those two ideas so he does not have to go on an Easter Egg Hunt for them in 1700+ posts

As I posted elsewhere; "As we are contending with the alligators we tend to lose sight of the original mission that was to drain the swamp".

Ron

 

[Big Barn]

Yes, thesis material :thumbsup:

An excellent summary,Ron but I beg to differ concerning heat. Yes the liquid filled pan will resist heat but only the solid malleable iron plug needs to be heated. I still maintain that it would get red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch in well under 10 seconds.

During the next 30 seconds the torch can be extinguished, placed safely to one side and the plug removed with a suitable gripping tool (small pipe wrench, Knipex or whatever.)

Your method of drilling will also work, but I tend to try the easier methods first.

 

[dragoneggs]

I am not arguing that a Knipex pliers are stronger than a similarly sized pipe wrench but I do believe the design and actuation of the jaws and teeth create more grip than a pipe wrench... again from my experience... no data, sorry. In fact, looking at Mc/I stress, a cheater pipe may fail the Knipex handle before a decent quality pipe wrench handle, but I don't think strength of the tool is the issue.

I will vote again for Knipex and heat. A little cheater won't hurt. Looking at the OP posted pics, I would say grip is the primary issue... let's get a better grip and add some heat.

 

[Jstpssng]

An excellent summary,Ron but I beg to differ concerning heat. Yes the liquid filled pan will resist heat but only the solid malleable iron plug needs to be heated. I still maintain that it would get red hot with an oxy-acetylene torch in well under 10 seconds.

During the next 30 seconds the torch can be extinguished, placed safely to one side and the plug removed with a suitable gripping tool (small pipe wrench, Knipex or whatever.)

Your method of drilling will also work, but I tend to try the easier methods first.

Actually it would work as well or better if the pan around the plug was heated, causing it to expand. I would have removed that cross member a long time ago, and design a way to bolt it back on.

 

[Diggin It]

I still vote for the Illudium Q36 Explosive Space Plug Demodulator.

 

[lilranch2001]

Its been a while since I read this whole thread, and I do not remember.....
Has anyone confirmed that the OP has used "righty tighty, lefty loosy?"

This is NOT a political statement Wolfy!

 

[k0ua]

Its been a while since I read this whole thread, and I do not remember.....
Has anyone confirmed that the OP has used "righty tighty, lefty loosy?"

This is NOT a political statement Wolfy!

I have wondered about that several times.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Its been a while since I read this whole thread, and I do not remember.....
Has anyone confirmed that the OP has used "righty tighty, lefty loosy?"

This is NOT a political statement Wolfy!

Oh Noooooo!
Now is this while laying on your back looking up....
OR
with tractor on its side standing on the knipex?????
See how this morphs........
Soooooooo....easily... :laughing:

 

[SandburRanch]

Is it time to change the user name to Kan'tdo?:laughing:

 

[Shaneard]

173 pages later, I haven't read any of the thread but if it's not out by now I think it's time to trade this unit :laughing:

 

[ddbackhoe]

Yes, thesis material :thumbsup:

FSU Alumni are better. My beer money is still on Kando. Im now thinking the plug is cross threaded and whoever put it in last used a cheater on the wrench to keep it from leaking.

 

[Jstpssng]

^^^^
I hope that isn’t the case, as it would result in another 2000 posts with ideas good and bad of how to fix it.
I think that Kando needs to spend some time with Check, who is dealing with mysterious holes appearing in his barn floor. https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums...t-heck-making-these-holes-36.html#post5426052
Perhaps the two afflictions would cancel each other out.