Root Rake/Grapple For Kubota B2910

[CDN Farm Boy]

Seems I recall reading that there was an issue with diverter valves and regen. My loader valve is the 4-position valve type, with regen in the first position, and "power dump" (non-regen) once you move past the detent into the second position.

I remember reading the same thing (probably several places) but I don't remember what the solution is.

Plumbing it on the lift or curl circuits is equally easy.

While the work involved in the plumbing would be equally easy, I don't think the grapple would be equally easy to use if it was diverted from the lift rather than the curl circuit.

If you tied to the lift circuit you would have options of
lift and curl
OR
curl & grapple


If you tied to the curl circuit you would have options of
lift and curl
OR
lift and grapple

To me, the second is a more appealing arrangement

 

[lostcreekranch]

Or ....... with a true 3rd function, you can do all three.

 

[rswyan]

Or ....... with a true 3rd function, you can do all three.

Alright enough of that business now ! 8-P

 

[rswyan]

CDN,

I'm going to have to think on this a bit ...

 

[rswyan]

Maximum jaw opening with cylinders lengthened is 55 1/4 inches, tip to tip.

 

[rswyan]

Height with jaws closed is 46", width is 50".

 

[houser52]

Seems I recall reading that there was an issue with diverter valves and regen. My loader valve is the 4-position valve type, with regen in the first position, and "power dump" (non-regen) once you move past the detent into the second position.

Plumbing it on the lift or curl circuits is equally easy.

I went through that several months ago when plumbing my grapple.
As everyone recommended, I used the dump/curl circuit first. The grapple jaws opened and closed just fine but when dumping, the tractor labored, the hydraulics shuttered and you could hear the hydraulic relief valve open. The dump actually slowed down.

Since everybody else seemed to use the dump/curl and they were fine, I thought something was wrong with my tractor. Then I read where someone had actually used the lift circuit so I switched my hoses just to try it. What do you know, everything works great now. The loader dumps/curls/lifts/lowers like it always did which is normal and the grapple opens and closes like it should.

 

[Xfaxman]

Maximum jaw opening with cylinders lengthened is 55 1/4 inches, tip to tip.

Height with jaws closed is 46", width is 50".

Can't wait to see it in action. :thumbsup:

 

[rswyan]

Six holes drilled and tapped, grease fittings installed:

 

[rswyan]

Pulled the instrument cluster to see if I could locate a power source and a location to the mount the relay. Looks like someone considered using it as a nesting spot at some point:

 

[rswyan]

I went through that several months ago when plumbing my grapple.
As everyone recommended, I used the dump/curl circuit first. The grapple jaws opened and closed just fine but when dumping, the tractor labored, the hydraulics shuttered and you could hear the hydraulic relief valve open. The dump actually slowed down.

Since everybody else seemed to use the dump/curl and they were fine, I thought something was wrong with my tractor. Then I read where someone had actually used the lift circuit so I switched my hoses just to try it. What do you know, everything works great now. The loader dumps/curls/lifts/lowers like it always did which is normal and the grapple opens and closes like it should.

Good to know ... I'll probably just go with that first off, and see how it goes ...

I personally think having curl and closing the grapple available at the same time would be more desirable, but I should know for sure soon enough.

If it doesn't work out, changing it is as simple as swapping the QD's on the loader valve on the lift circuit with the ones on the curl circuit.

Should be easy-peasy ...

 

[TMGT]

I ran the diverter off the bucket curl circuit on my b2620, no problems, only time it acts up is if you reverse the hoses due to the cylinder displacment difference. One day I'll get around to marking the qd's or reversing one side, only been using it for for 5years, and i think I hook it up backwards about half the time lol.

Grapple looks good.

 

[rswyan]

I ran the diverter off the bucket curl circuit on my b2620, no problems, only time it acts up is if you reverse the hoses due to the cylinder displacment difference. One day I'll get around to marking the qd's or reversing one side, only been using it for for 5years, and i think I hook it up backwards about half the time lol.

The difference might the type of valve you have.

Grapple looks good.

Thanks.

 

[TMGT]

I have regen on the curl also, I thought the same as you about putting it on the boom circuit instead, I'm glad I put it on the curl.
I was also going to put a switch to lock the diverter in the on position but found it unnecessary, I'd try it with just the momentary switch first.

 

[rswyan]

Worked on wiring for the diverter until around 01:00 or so, didn't actually hit the rack until after 03:00.

Got the instrument cluster and the fuse block pulled ... removed the wire and terminal from the fused side of the fuse block for the work light. Will probably solder a piece of 12 ga onto to that as the power source for the diverter and run it up to the top of the dash just under the instrument cluster, where I'll locate the relay. Should keep it out of the weather and it shouldn't be too difficult to change there if need be.

Also got a hole carved in the dash for the rocker switch, so I can turn the diverter on and leave it on, without having to hold the momentary contact switch on the joystick in.

Have to run out to Summit Racing later and grab some solid loom and some terminals, after UPS delivers the hoses and fittings.

 

[rswyan]

I have regen on the curl also, I thought the same as you about putting it on the boom circuit instead, I'm glad I put it on the curl.

Interesting.

I can see some advantages both ways ...

Like Rick says: the ideal way go 3rd function ... so ya have them all available at all times.

Not in cards for me at the moment tho' ...

I was also going to put a switch to lock the diverter in the on position but found it unnecessary, I'd try it with just the momentary switch first.

Too late ...

 

[rswyan]

It's looking like the brackets for the diverter and front hydraulic outlets may not get painted immediately ... too hot to trot to try it out.

I hit them with phosphoric acid, so hopefully that will provide a little rust protection until I can get around to it.

 

[rswyan]

Think I pretty much have the plumbing done on the loader/diverter at this point, and am well into the electrical.

Have to tie that up and then mount the hose clamps on the grapple, install the fittings in the cylinders, and hook up the hoses.

I'm guessing I should be testing things out by late afternoon, if all goes according to plan.

 

[Xfaxman]

----------------

Posted Today, 03:50 AM

I'm guessing I should be testing things out by late afternoon, if all goes according to plan.

Sounds good, but when do you sleep?

 

[rswyan]

Sounds good, but when do you sleep?

I hit the rack a little after 05:00 ... woke up about 1/2 hour ago. Slept like a baby ...

Ran out to Summers Rubber and Summit Racing yesterday afternoon and picked up a couple things I needed:

1. Two male to female 06 JIC 90 swivels.

2. Eight feet of hose sleeving.

3. Ten feet of 1/4" solid wire loom.

I needed the 90's because I failed to account for a second set of 90's when I had the hoses made up that go from the diverter to the solid lines on the loader. What I should have done was had the 90's put on the hose ends ...

I picked up the sleeving because I guestimated one size too large, when I ordered the sleeving for the grapple hoses ... no biggie, as I have number of other places I can use the larger size.

And the two hoses that go from loader valve to the diverter are a little long ... the location of the diverter was just different enough, that these two now kinda appear to be the odd men out ... I'll eventually need to replace the other two hoses going from the loader valve to the curl circuit, and at that point I'll get something a little appropriate, length-wise.

It appears that the Ideal rocker switch I picked up @ Home Depot a year ago is for 120/250 volts and won't illuminate using 12v ... it also probably isn't weatherproof ... so that's gonna require another trip back to Summit to pick up a Hella switch. Also need to pick up a crimping tool for the Weather Pack connector I'm using for the disconnect point for the power supply and ground wires to the diverter valve.

Yesterday, along with handling the plumbing, I drilled a 5/8" hole on the right side in the plastic console, down near the bottom of the fuel tank and installed a rubber grommet in it, and then passed the loom and wires through it for the relay trigger wiring for the rocker switch. And ran a ground wire to the ground on the sending unit on the fuel tank.

Plan is to mount the relay on the underside of the bracket for loader valve, which is well within reach of wiring harness that came on the Hurst shifter knob. It's seems like it should be somewhat protected and out of the way there.

Have most of the wiring made up at this point, have to solder the power feed wire to the fuse block and then route that and the wiring to the diverter itself and mount and terminate all of it at the relay.

Then onto to getting the hoses installed on the grapple itself.