Ripper

[Iplayfarmer]

A few months back a truck at work backed into something and lost its rear bumper off the trailer. I ended up with the 4X4 tube that used to be the bumper.

The only time I've ever used the rippers from my KK box blade is when I'm trying to loosen up ground but not scrape it. The bumper and ripper shanks are now coming together in a home-made, make-shift ripper to loosen soil prior to tilling.

This is a picture of the materials that are going into it. I paid $5 for the two Cat. 1 TPH pins, and I paid $8 for a 7/8" hole saw. Everything else is leftover from other projects or scrap that I've picked up along the way. The one ripper is in the shop just so I can measure it.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

To cut the slots I've drilled holes on either side of the slot and cut between the holes with a 4" angle grinder. Once I'd punched through with the angle grinder, I used a reciprocating saw to finish the cut.

Here are some more pics of the project as it's progressing. Pardon the clutter in my shop. I really need more space and better storage out there, but it's not in the plan for a few more years.

 

[Scotty370]

Can't believe you could drill that many holes in that steel w/ an $8 hole saw!! My project has me drilling 3/4", 7/8", and 1" holes through 1/4" plate. I bought the three bits, at about $17- each!!

 

[J_J]

To cut the slots I've drilled holes on either side of the slot and cut between the holes with a 4" angle grinder. Once I'd punched through with the angle grinder, I used a reciprocating saw to finish the cut.

Here are some more pics of the project as it's progressing. Pardon the clutter in my shop. I really need more space and better storage out there, but it's not in the plan for a few more years.

I am thinking that you will need to beef up the metal behind the rippers on the bottom, and on the top front. As soon as you get into something tough, that ripper is going to plow it's way out of that tube as is..

 

[J_J]

Can't believe you could drill that many holes in that steel w/ an $8 hole saw!! My project has me drilling 3/4", 7/8", and 1" holes through 1/4" plate. I bought the three bits, at about $17- each!!

The trick is to keep the bits cool with water , air, or cutting fluid.

 

[GT2]

To cut the slots I've drilled holes on either side of the slot and cut between the holes with a 4" angle grinder. Once I'd punched through with the angle grinder, I used a reciprocating saw to finish the cut.

Here are some more pics of the project as it's progressing. Pardon the clutter in my shop. I really need more space and better storage out there, but it's not in the plan for a few more years.

Looking good!
It is amazing what you can do with a mill... er.. hole saw!

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I am thinking that you will need to beef up the metal behind the rippers on the bottom, and on the top front. As soon as you get into something tough, that ripper is going to plow it's way out of that tube as is..

Thanks for the suggestions.

The top is going to be anchored with tabs welded on either side of each slot. There'll be a 1/2 inch hole in each tab for the pin that holds the ripper in place.

I've actually saved the pieces that I cut out of the slots thinking that I could weld them on underside on the back to beef up that metal.

I'm still deciding whether I should just attach an A-frame directly to this 4" tube to make the 3 point hitch attachment, or if I should come forward of the tube to make more of a platform to give the 3 point A-frame more attachment points and more stability.

 

[J_J]

Iplayfarmer,

You said: I've actually saved the pieces that I cut out of the slots thinking that I could weld them on underside on the back to beef up that metal.

I believe you should use something more substantial, like 1/2 in thick by 1 in wide, by 2 in long.

Not to long ago, someone did something similar with rippers, and posted a picture of the rip out, and then he beefed up the unit with some extra metal.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I believe you should use something more substantial, like 1/2 in thick by 1 in wide, by 2 in long.

Not to long ago, someone did something similar with rippers, and posted a picture of the rip out, and then he beefed up the unit with some extra metal.

Thanks for the warning. These plugs aren't 1/2" thick, but they are just shy of 1" x 2". I do have two for each shank (top and bottom). In that first picture I also have a stick of 1/2" X 1" flat stock. Based on your recommendations, I may just cut chunks of that flat stock to stick to the bottom.

If anyone has a link to that picture of the beefed up ripper, it would save me the time of looking for it.

Keep in mind too that my tractor is only 19Hp.

 

[DraftHorse]

What you are making is similar to the Landpride SF2572 Scarifier. I have one of these and use it on a regular basis. The great feature of the LP unit is that it allows me to also use my rake at the same time.

 

[PILOON]

The trick is to keep the bits cool with water , air, or cutting fluid.

Tried those hole saws as well! Really surprised me as I made about 7-8 holes with a 1" holesaw in 1/2" stock and the paint is barely scraped off of the saw.
Stll super sharp!
Also did a 3" hole in 1/4" stock with same good results.
What I did learn was to drill BEFORE cutting small pieces as the cutoff blades somehow heat harden the adjacent metal.
Lube and gentle feed does the trick.
Using hole saws in metal has opened up a lot of possibilities for me.


.

 

[J_J]

Tried those hole saws as well! Really surprised me as I made about 7-8 holes with a 1" holesaw in 1/2" stock and the paint is barely scraped off of the saw.
Stll super sharp!
Also did a 3" hole in 1/4" stock with same good results.
What I did learn was to drill BEFORE cutting small pieces as the cutoff blades somehow heat harden the adjacent metal.
Lube and gentle feed does the trick.
Using hole saws in metal has opened up a lot of possibilities for me.


.

I purchased some of the hole cutting saws with carbide teeth, and they cut very nice. A 1 in hole saw with carbide teeth, will cost around $21.00 . I have cut through 1/2 in steel fairly easy. I run the drill pres real slow.

 

[Shield Arc]

Here is one I built. 5" x 5" square stock, with 1" x 4" flatbar. It's not a matter of horsepower; I just don't have the traction to ever rip the shanks through the 1" flatbar.

 

[AKfish]

I've got the larger Landpride scarifier (ripper). Think it's 77". Couple of things that I've considered to improve the usefullness of mine - coulter blades - one for each shank.

When ripping sod or old fields; the chunks of sod tend to ball up in large wads. Enough to pack into the rear tires and lift the ripper upwards. I think having a coulter blade (like a moldboard plow) welded to the frame in front of the ripper tooth to cut a thin line through the sod or other vegetation will help with the sod clumps building up.

And modifying the 3pt mount on the ripper to fit a quick hitch attachment. The scarifier is not all that difficult to hook up - but I want more distance between the tractor and the ripper. Even with coulters, the ripper will lay over the sod similar to what a plow does and some additional clearance would be beneficial - IMO. And while making gradual turns with the shanks in the ground, the inside tire tends to fill up with material pretty badly.

My $.02

(Good job on the fab work - by the way.. )

AKfish

 

[Iplayfarmer]

Here is one I built. 5" x 5" square stock, with 1" x 4" flatbar. It's not a matter of horsepower; I just don't have the traction to ever rip the shanks through the 1" flatbar.

Hey, that's a good design! I wish I'd seen that before I spent all night drilling holes in my 4" tube.

 

[chickenman]

how i mounted my shanks

 

[Baby Grand]

Chickenman-
I like your quick hitch fab job - looks like a rugged, clean design.
Jim

 

[GT2]

Tried those hole saws as well! Really surprised me as I made about 7-8 holes with a 1" holesaw in 1/2" stock and the paint is barely scraped off of the saw.
Stll super sharp!
Also did a 3" hole in 1/4" stock with same good results.
What I did learn was to drill BEFORE cutting small pieces as the cutoff blades somehow heat harden the adjacent metal.
Lube and gentle feed does the trick.
Using hole saws in metal has opened up a lot of possibilities for me.


.

I also learned to pre-drill the 1/4" pilot first. That way your not working 2 holes at the same time.

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I got some more done on the ripper last night. Due to the concerns brought up on this thread, I went ahead and welded a 1" X 1/2" flat bar to the underside of the ripper behind the shanks. I also cut some old bedrail that I had laying around to weld on either side of the top slots to accept the pins that hold the shanks in place.

Here's my problem now... I can't drill the bedrails. That metal is so hardened! I've sharpened the bits, used cutting oil, stepped up gradually in drill bit sizes; and I've still broken 3 drill bits. I've got most of the ten holes up to about 5/16" now. I don't know how I'm going to get them drilled out to the 1/2" that I need.

I may just scrap the bed rail and get some regular angle iron. Buying a stick of 1 1/2" angle will probably be cheaper than replacing all the bits I'll break.

 

[GT2]

I got some more done on the ripper last night. Due to the concerns brought up on this thread, I went ahead and welded a 1" X 1/2" flat bar to the underside of the ripper behind the shanks. I also cut some old bedrail that I had laying around to weld on either side of the top slots to accept the pins that hold the shanks in place.

Here's my problem now... I can't drill the bedrails. That metal is so hardened! I've sharpened the bits, used cutting oil, stepped up gradually in drill bit sizes; and I've still broken 3 drill bits. I've got most of the ten holes up to about 5/16" now. I don't know how I'm going to get them drilled out to the 1/2" that I need.

I may just scrap the bed rail and get some regular angle iron. Buying a stick of 1 1/2" angle will probably be cheaper than replacing all the bits I'll break.

Try slowing the drill speed way down, and place a piece of reg steel under the rail, not wood or air.
Or maybe heat up the spot your going to drill to cherry red and then let cool naturally (no water!).
I guess,
If you have to,