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dcyrilc
Elite Member
They list several on JDs website
Black (medium-gloss)
Black (high-gloss)
Blitz black (low-gloss)
Industrial black (high-grade)
I'll check with the dealer.
Rhino lining for battery area?
- Thread starter dcyrilc
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They list several on JDs website
Black (medium-gloss)
Black (high-gloss)
Blitz black (low-gloss)
Industrial black (high-grade)
I'll check with the dealer.
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
The JD website lists two different greens. Do you have a part# for the one you used that I can cross-reference?
Coyote machine
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Another option to keep NON-AGM batteries from leaking is to put the battery in a marine battery box. They come with plastic hold downs with a strap that runs through the hold downs and allows the battery box to stay where you set it and a top that covers the entire box while allowing it to breath without dumping stray acid all over your cowl's floor. You might even find them at your local wallymart. Otherwise do a Google search for *marine battery boxes- (*not semper-fi boxes
).
Some bigger auto stores and TSC stores are bound to carry them as well. I have four of them on my boat and no issues with leaking electrolyte (acid). I might still spray some Rhino or automotive undercoating onto the floor of the cowl just as added protection.
).Some bigger auto stores and TSC stores are bound to carry them as well. I have four of them on my boat and no issues with leaking electrolyte (acid). I might still spray some Rhino or automotive undercoating onto the floor of the cowl just as added protection.
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Gary Fowler
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Another option is to replace the battery caps with aviation battery caps. They vent gas but absolutely wont leak fluid even if upside down.
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
I'm not using factory batteries anymore, so I'm not overly concerned about repeat leakage. At least, not like I would be with JD batteries.
At this point, since I'm completely rebuilding the cowl assembly where the batteries sit, I'm simply making improvements to the origional design. I like the Rhino linning coating and figure the durability of it couldn't hurt for the price.
Thank you for that information though, I'll store that one in the memory bank for areas where I may desire it's usage.
sixdogs
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I know you have searched this out pretty well so let me add soomething to your thinking. My concern with the Rhino lining is that the surface is impossible to get completely clean of rust and moisture and that the lining will trap it underneath and create the same problem again.
Over the years I have tried many things but had the best results with just cleaning and rust removing the best I could and then spraying the surface with a mix of oil and diesel fuel. Then i use a leak-proof battery such as an Optima and I have never had a problem. I also use copper battery cable ends.
My current mess, as noted earlier in this thread, was a JD 790 that I bought with only a hundred hours on it and a severly rusted out battery area with a leaky battery. That's my two cents.
Over the years I have tried many things but had the best results with just cleaning and rust removing the best I could and then spraying the surface with a mix of oil and diesel fuel. Then i use a leak-proof battery such as an Optima and I have never had a problem. I also use copper battery cable ends.
My current mess, as noted earlier in this thread, was a JD 790 that I bought with only a hundred hours on it and a severly rusted out battery area with a leaky battery. That's my two cents.
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
Normally, I would agree with you. However, the area that I'm planning to Rhino Line, is new steel. The entire bottom was cut out and replaced (see earlier pix), the rest will be sand blasted to bare steel. Then all will be galvanized and painted. After the paint has had time to cure, the bottom will get Rhino Lined. I shouln't have issues with rust under the lining since that area is new steel and never had previous rust.
I'll post pix as I go.
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
I checked with the dealer and got the paint I need. Side note - JDs low gloss black is actually flat black. It was the medium gloss which I needed.
The cowl has been stripped down, sand blasted, and primed. I ordered all new bushings and small parts to replace worn, rusted, or missing parts. The bushings for the throttle linkage were missing. When I looked up the specs for the bushings and measured the holes, the holes were too small. I redrilled them for the bushings, but the holes are now tight against the bottom of the cowl. I'll have to wait until I can check the fit of the bushings, but I may have to remake the supports for the throttle linkage. I'll know more this weekend.
The cowl has been stripped down, sand blasted, and primed. I ordered all new bushings and small parts to replace worn, rusted, or missing parts. The bushings for the throttle linkage were missing. When I looked up the specs for the bushings and measured the holes, the holes were too small. I redrilled them for the bushings, but the holes are now tight against the bottom of the cowl. I'll have to wait until I can check the fit of the bushings, but I may have to remake the supports for the throttle linkage. I'll know more this weekend.
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dcyrilc
Elite Member
We refabricated the supports for the throttle linkage yesterday. I resandblasted that ares and reprimered it. I'll post some pix later tonight or tomorrow.
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