Returning batteries for warranty claim

[5030]

My ongoing philosophy for what it's worth...

First off, we charged flooded cell batteries sitting on a shelf are getting older and weaker as they sit waiting for you to purchase them. Any flooded cell battery (including AGM's) are aging whether they are installed in some application or not. Fact of battery life.

I always buy my batteries from a volume retailer where they aren't sitting on a shelf somewhere, in my case I buy all my jars from a local truck dealership where I know they have a large turnover and that is not brand related either. Currently running Delphi jars and I always fit the largest battery in my tractors and vehicles that will physically fit the battery box.

One thing I always do is, I physically look at any retailers batteries and if they have dust on the top, I run away quick because a dusty jar has been sitting there and it's useable life is draining away waiting...

The other ting I always do when replacing ANY jar is, I trickle charge it prior to installing it to bring it up to 100% static charge before I ever install it, brand is inconsequential.

I always (without fail) make sure the battery terminal clamps are clean and bright before installing and I make sure the ground strap where it connects to the frame is clean and bright as well and I check all the cables to make sure they are not corroded or frayed as well.

One thing I do with the batteries in my tractors that sit all winter is, I install a master disconnect on the NEGATIVE terminal and I isolate them when sitting in the barn so if there is a parasitic loss, the battery never sees it anyway. A full charged battery looses very little charge when sitting, so long as it's isolated from the system. In fact, a properly charged flooded cell battery will loose about 7-10% of it's total cranking amperage per month when it's idle and it's connected to the system.

I have very little battery related issues and never have actually and typically, a jar will last (me) for about 5 years before I replace them. Brand irregardless.

Your mileage and mine may be different but that is how I approach it and finally, when I install a new jar, I always coat the terminals and clamps as well as the ground termination with a proprietary battery compound to prevent oxidation and that includes the connections on the starter (positive and negative) as well.

My tractors have been sleeping all winter but I'm willing to make book on the fact that I can go out in the barn, close the master disconnects on them and they will fire right up.

 

[5030]

Nope no hole

Looks to me like those terminations need to be cleaned at best. Look cruddy.

 

[Goober2]

Your alternator should be outputting around 14.25 vdc when running.

 

[ultrarunner]

My ongoing philosophy for what it's worth...

First off, we charged flooded cell batteries sitting on a shelf are getting older and weaker as they sit waiting for you to purchase them. Any flooded cell battery (including AGM's) are aging whether they are installed in some application or not. Fact of battery life.

I always buy my batteries from a volume retailer where they aren't sitting on a shelf somewhere, in my case I buy all my jars from a local truck dealership where I know they have a large turnover and that is not brand related either. Currently running Delphi jars and I always fit the largest battery in my tractors and vehicles that will physically fit the battery box.

One thing I always do is, I physically look at any retailers batteries and if they have dust on the top, I run away quick because a dusty jar has been sitting there and it's useable life is draining away waiting...

The other ting I always do when replacing ANY jar is, I trickle charge it prior to installing it to bring it up to 100% static charge before I ever install it, brand is inconsequential.

I always (without fail) make sure the battery terminal clamps are clean and bright before installing and I make sure the ground strap where it connects to the frame is clean and bright as well and I check all the cables to make sure they are not corroded or frayed as well.

One thing I do with the batteries in my tractors that sit all winter is, I install a master disconnect on the NEGATIVE terminal and I isolate them when sitting in the barn so if there is a parasitic loss, the battery never sees it anyway. A full charged battery looses very little charge when sitting, so long as it's isolated from the system. In fact, a properly charged flooded cell battery will loose about 7-10% of it's total cranking amperage per month when it's idle and it's connected to the system.

I have very little battery related issues and never have actually and typically, a jar will last (me) for about 5 years before I replace them. Brand irregardless.

Your mileage and mine may be different but that is how I approach it and finally, when I install a new jar, I always coat the terminals and clamps as well as the ground termination with a proprietary battery compound to prevent oxidation and that includes the connections on the starter (positive and negative) as well.

My tractors have been sleeping all winter but I'm willing to make book on the fact that I can go out in the barn, close the master disconnects on them and they will fire right up.

Battery Disconnect can make a world of difference.

 

[5030]

Much like installing a fuel polishing filter between the fuel tank and the primary filter on any engine. Added insurance, just in case.

 

[wojofam7431]

Take them back and tell them to do a load test. You should not have to jump a less than one year old battery unless they have dead cells.

 

[Hay Dude]

Battery Disconnect can make a world of difference.

It has an automatic battery disconnect. There a timer that runs 10 minutes then you hear a distinct “click-click” and the batteries are disconnected.

 

[Hay Dude]

Take them back and tell them to do a load test. You should not have to jump a less than one year old battery unless they have dead cells.

The batteries are at 11.1V now. I tried to start it yesterday and they’d barely crank. I’m about ready to chuck the damn things through the front window of the store…..

 

[jwmorris]

I’m sure an overnight charge will bring them back to life, but will it last?

If my tractor is showing 13.4+ on voltmeter and I have no trouble light on as stated, why would it be alternator?

If charging overnight does the trick but the charging system of the tractor cannot maintain the charge, it is the problem.

If the batteries cannot HOLD a charge, they should be replaced. Tell the people at NAPA to charge it back up and leave it sitting for a day, then test. As you don't leave your tractor running all night, just so you can start it in the morning.

 

[WranglerX]

Take battery issue to district manager level ...OR ....Move on to something other than NAPA batteries.....

 

[dodge man]

Haydude, at this point it sounds like you aren’t sure if it’s the batteries or the tractor. Do you have a good set from another tractor you can try?

 

[ultrarunner]

Substituting known good battery is a low tech way if you have one available.

Only once was I going to pull my hair out and I was sure it was the battery so bought new and only slight better so I swapped from the pickup and the whole time my problem was not the battery but the starter...

 

[Tractorsletch]

Not helpful for your current situation, but next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked

Unfortunately Costco now begins a prorated warranty immediately on purchase. No more 3 free years.

 

[grsthegreat]

If his tractor has automatic battery disconnect, which ive never heard of, than how can the tractor be causing the issue. unless that clicking is something clicking on when you shut off the tractor. Get ahold of a dc clamp on meter to see if theres parasitic draw down.

 

[ultrarunner]

My Deere 350c Bull Dozer has a master battery disconnect switch and it makes a difference when not used for months at a time.

 

[Hay Dude]

Haydude, at this point it sounds like you aren’t sure if it’s the batteries or the tractor. Do you have a good set from another tractor you can try?

I could, but tomorrow it’s going to rain, so I’ll be able to get some time off daily work to toss a new set of batteries in it.

 

[MTGreen]

Unfortunately Costco now begins a prorated warranty immediately on purchase. No more 3 free years.

Well that's a bummer. At least at Costco they're not going to tell you to charge it overnight first before exchange

 

[MFowner]

Not helpful for your current situation, but next time buy from Costco. Interstate batteries free replacement within 3 years no questions asked

Costco has changed their battery warranty. It is now 36 month prorated. Example, you return battery after 18 months, you get 50% of purchase price back.

 

[ultrarunner]

Great warranties seldom last forever… even forever warranties go away when the business closes or changes ownership.

I still have a few forever warranties but not counting on them really being forever.

I sold quite a few Interstate Batteries in the 70’s and early 80’s as friends, teachers and classmates would come to me for batteries.

Some of the batteries back then were cost in the low $20 range and I could sell and install around $30 and change

We switched to AC Delco Green Eye when Interstate quality seemed to drop.

By far the longest lasting for me is Deka followed by AC Delco…

 

[MFowner]

If my tractor is showing 13.4+ on voltmeter and I have no trouble light on as stated, why would it be alternator?

A 12 volt charging system should have a voltage of 13.8-14.2 volts with the engine running at 1/3 throttle. You have a charging system issue.