Retaining Wall for Driveway

Steelfan · Jun 2, 2002

Does anyone have a picture of a wood retaining wall along a driveway? I've been trying to explain to her about what I'd like to do to keep the stones in the driveway, and level it up. My wife is pretty old fashioned, she does not want to pave the driveway. This being said I need to find a way to make it look, and function better. I want to get stone hauled in, and fix it right. The surface is not very level, and I get water running across it when it rains hard. I've been thinking of putting a wood retaining wall on the low side, and building it up to level. I've seen walls like this before, but will they hold the weight of a driveway? Railroad ties are out. She doesn't like them. Anyone got suggestions? Thanks Kent

beenthere · Jun 2, 2002

Could you post a picture? Will you be plowing snow over the retaining wall? How much room do you have on the downhill side to play with? When you say "get stone hauled in", are you talking for the drive, and if so, what kind of stone is it? Lime stone, or what? Hopefully someone here can help.

Myself, not knowing exactly what you have for a downhill slope, I would avoid any kind of a drop-off along my drive, as too often someone goes sliding in tha direction. Also, pushing snow downhill is my best way of getting it out of the way. Some hard winters with lots of snow, I had to push that snow a long ways away from the drive.

Steelfan · Jun 2, 2002

You make some good points about dropoff. I'm planning on getting a mixture of stone, and mud for driveway. Packs pretty good. My driveway is about 50 feet long, and dropoff at the lowest point is about 1 foot. I'm not to worried about snow removal. I'm worried about stones in my yard from driveway, and trying to do some leveling. It doesn't have to be perfectly level, just want to stop water from crossing it. I may bury a pipe under driveway to help with drainage. I'll get a picture tomorrow. Thanks Beenthere. Kent

Argee · Jun 2, 2002

I'm planning a retaining wall for one side of my drive also, but for different reasons. I want to hold the soil in. I'm contemplating going with the block type walls that keep stepping back.

I understand, if you do one with treated 4 x 6 or 6 x 6 you need to attach a few perpendicular on every course to keep the weight of the earthen berm from pushing it (the wall) out.

Another thought is to plateau the wall and plant ground cover or flowers in the plateaus. Or hammer down corrugated steel and paint it.

Anonymous Poster · Jun 3, 2002

The whole trick to any retaining wall, unless you have unlimited money to invest in massive, is ancors.
No matter what you build the wall of, it needs to be laterally anchored across the driveway. Otherwise, the wall will blow out. Freeze/thaw cycles are pure he!! on any wall.
A steel plate with 3 sf of area buried 6 feet into the ground will hold over 4000# of stress, that's what keeps utility cables from falling to the ground. The same technique can be employed on a retaining wall.

Steelfan · Jun 3, 2002

Thanks for the replies. I'm grateful for the help. I'm looking on the web for an example of what I'm talking about. I'll post a picture if I find it. Thanks again. Kent

wroughtn_harv · Jun 3, 2002

If you're interested I can post you a picture of my southside flower bed.

I used old wooden guard rail posts side by side. The way I did it was I dug an eighteen inch deep trench wide enough to hold the posts. I cut them two and a half feet long. I drilled three quarter inch holes in them to hold three quarter inch steel rod. I could put nine of the posts together at a time, all I could move by myself. The end two posts on each end I'd drill an extra three quarter inch hole. this allowed me to have the joint where the nine's came together to have a pin joining them two posts each side of the joint.

I used the posts that were the ugliest and most weathered with the most bird crap on them etc. It came out pretty neat. A lot of work but it is a raised flowerbed that is unique. Uniqueness counts.

MarkV · Jun 3, 2002

Kent,
Do I understand that you are only trying to raise the low side by 1 foot? If that is the case I don’t see where you will have any problems. I have a wall that is built out of 6x6 pressure treated timbers that is 7 feet high and supports a section of parking lot with out any problem. It does have a good number of perpendicular to the wall supports shaped like a “T”, or dead men as we call then, but I don’t think I would bother on a 1 foot wall. Around here you would completely bury the fist timber and then add the additional timbers, staggering the joints, on top. Some spike them together with 10” spikes or you can drill them and drive rebar all the way through. Do keep in mind that pressure treated wood comes in different varieties. You want the kind that is treated for constant ground contact and water contact.

I am in the South so freeze thaw cycles are not an issue for us. The biggest problem people have with retaining walls is hydraulic pressure. Good drainage is essential. You say you have water running across the road in heavy rain. If a culvert can be installed to direct the water under the road you will be much better off. I would also run drain tile with a silt sock along the base of the wall.

MarkV

Steelfan · Jun 3, 2002

Thanks wroughtn_harv
I'd love to see it. It sounds great. I've been looking online for something similar, but haven't found it yet. I'm trying to get ideas, and input for this summer project. Thanks again. Kent

Steelfan · Jun 3, 2002

Thanks MarkV,
I'm definitely going to put drainage in. Water does run across it in heavy rain. Any chance that you have a picture of the wall? Thanks for the help. Kent

Golfgar4 · Jun 3, 2002

Kent,

Here's a link <A target="_blank" HREF=http://www.ybc.com/Retaining_Walls_Gallery.htm>Retaining Walls</A> to a company that builds bridges and retaining walls. There are some pictures of some of their projects. Maybe you'll get some ideas from some of these.

Steelfan · Jun 3, 2002

Thanks Golfgar4,
That's pretty close to what I had in mind. And you gave me a great idea. While I'm out golfing, I can check out the retaining walls on the course first hand. Nothing like a little on site examination. Thanks again. I owe you. Kent

Golfgar4 · Jun 3, 2002

No problem, Kent! Glad to have helped. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif

There is no doubt, whatsoever, that at some point in the future, you'll repay any perceived debt! /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Always happy to provide another reason for chasing the little white ball! /w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif/w3tcompact/icons/grin.gif

Paul_in_CT · Jun 7, 2002

Steelfan,
Here`s a link to a block retaing wall company (Unilock) http://www.unilock.com/walls/index.html The block cost more but will last forever. Plus they tend to save you time. (due to the pre engineering) the step back the right amount for every course. Once you get the first course in on a good base and level the rest of the wall will fly up. some drainge pipe and gravel behind it (landscape fabric ontop) then backfill tamp and your done forever. I have made some smaller walls in the gardens this way while laying about 300 linear feet of paver walkways at my place. I'm now planing a driveway area in front of my house similar to what you are describing.

Steelfan · Jun 8, 2002

Thanks Paul,
Very, very nice site. The idea of not having to touch it again is very appealing.

crb478 · Jun 8, 2002

Do yourself a favor and use the block. They are work putting in but they will out last you. They also allow water through better and loose less soil or gravel thorough the cracks. If you need a repair in the future it can be done for a small area easily, but wooden walls have to be cut apart and rebuilt with new materials.