Prices on driveway paving

[CliffordK]

I don't see concrete or asphalt driveways until I get into town. My driveway - mile long, gravel. Lower cost - easy to repair/maintain.

Each driveway is different, and each person's needs are different.

I have a rather steep hill, and am glad that it was paved about 30 years ago. I have enough troubles with spinning wheels in pavement. The hill section is holding up well despite very large trees being quite close to it. The flat section is cracking and has one small sink hole that I need to fill sometime.

 

[paulsharvey]

Howdy folks. I used the search function but didn't find any results from the last seven years. I have about 250yds of driveway on my soon to be constructed home. I'd like to start budgeting for getting that paved. We will be doing a decent amount of snow removal in the winter, and that sure goes a lot easier on asphalt in my experience. Anyone driveways done recently and want to terrify me with what they spent?

Hey, basic question, are we talking about 250 yards long x 12 feet wide=1000 square yards; or are we talking about 250 square yards=190 LF long x 12 wide?

 

[paulsharvey]

A few very generic things about driveways in general;

12 feet wide is a good number; 16 ft is a big increase in money, and not normally necessary. Narrower than 12 is kinda tight. It's not that 9 or 10 Won't work, but you probably won't be happy.

Wider radius at the street connection is always better; 15 ft radius or flare at a min; 25 ft is standard for what is called a 'high speed' roadway, ie 45mph+. Figure on pulling trailers in, at night, in poor weather; a tight radius isn't fun.

Size any culverts/side drains longer than you think. A 32 ft pipe will work for a 12 ft drive, with mitered ends, but you don't want to go down to a 24 ft pipe if you're using miters. If your going 16 ft wide, maybe from road to propety line (not a bad choice), you probably need a 40 ft pipe.

Trees are bad in 3 ways; roots, shade allowing water to sit; and turning radius'. Keep them min 8ft from EOP.

A crown or an inverted drive (minor V) to channel water either off the drive or channeled down the center, to where you have drainage structures. I prefer a crown, unless there is a good reason to capture the water.

If money is tight, I'd rather give up some asphalt rather than any base. Many parking lots have 1.25" of asphalt; but I wouldnt let anyone try to tell you they can just spead a couple inches of base and then lay 2" of asphalt on top. If you have sufficient, intact base, you can over lay in the future, but if the base is bad; you have to completely rebuild.

Density/compaction doesn't guarantee a good road, BUT bad compact/density does garrantee a Bad road/drive.

At the road connection, on your side of the ROW, run 2-2" conduits under the drive, atleast 24" deep, just for future; and on a 750 ft drive; I'd run conduits at least 2 places; for future gates/cameras/power/sprinklers; ect. Pipe isn't cheap, but directional drilling or open cutting the drive later is worse.

control any Veg trying to grow in any cracks/expansion joints/control joints, they will make things worse over time.

 

[geteh]

Most of the issues people have with asphalt fall into a couple categorys:
1) they get ripped off by what we refer to as asphalt gypsies; you pay for 1.5" or 165#/sy, and they give you 1/2"; they are long gone before you realize you got hosed, and that pretty drive falls apart
2) base and or subgrade; asphalt is a flexible material, and the majority of the strength of the system comes from the base/subgrade; which should be sufficient thickness (6" for a residence should be fine); compacted (98% density); organics/plastic materials removed;
3) Trees; no trees within 8 ft of the edge of the roadway; and the tree roots of any trees cut/removed; any dead roots will decay and leave voids; any living roots will grow, expand, crack/heave the asphalt
4) water and/or drainage; keep the water out of the base, and fron standing on the asphalt.
At the road connection, on your side of the ROW, run 2-2" conduits under the drive, atleast 24" deep, just for future; and on a 750 ft drive; I'd run conduits at least 2 places; for future gates/cameras/power/sprinklers; ect. Pipe isn't cheap, but directional drilling or open cutting the drive later is worse.

control any Veg trying to grow in any cracks/expansion joints/control joints notary public close to me, they will make things worse over time.

What is the average cost to replace a 914 sq ft concrete driveway in BC? I have been quoted $15k and $25k. Both seem steep since the driveway is not that big.

 

[paulsharvey]

What is the average cost to replace a 914 sq ft concrete driveway in BC? I have been quoted $15k and $25k. Both seem steep since the driveway is not that big.

That's only 17 CY of concrete. So, no idea how handy you are, but that sounds like 2 friends, plenty of beer, and 1 day forming, and 1 day pour and finish.

With concrete drive; 12 ft wide; one man on the shoot, 2 guy with a come-a-long, then a 12 ft screed board, edge, bull float, and broom. If you want to trowel (crawl or power trowel), that adds expense. If you want to 'picture frame' that adds expense.

17 CY should be around around $2500; plus load fees of around another $150; assuming standard 3000 psi concrete.

So, hired out, let's figure $1000 per day, plus labor, 2 guys forming x4 hrs=day 1; $1400 or so; concrete, $2750+15% mark up=$3200; and 3 guys x 8 hours=$2200.

No demo; you should be around, $6800. Demoing an existing slab would add atleast another $2500. If you want wire, add $350 in Material, and maybe another $250 in labor; if you want #4 rebar grid instead, I'd say that's probably about $1000 more.

All of this is based on a 6" slab, with good access. Pumping the concrete would add expense.

 

[lman]

I've got asphalt now and it is getting pretty rough. I'm thinking about getting a quote for chip seal on top of my asphalt. I saw a driveway with that recently and it looked pretty good. The best thing is the price compared to asphalt so I've heard.

 

[paulsharvey]

Where all this can go up; if you need a flagged lane closure, in my part of the world, that would add $1500/day hired out. Permitting, if needed, locally would only be $50 for the permit, but if you wanted to hire a permitting tech, that would probably be $500.

If they need to form, then wait a day or two for an inspection, before the pour, they would want to charge a bit more.

No idea what other issues in BC might be working against you on the price? Weather maybe; we don't pour concrete below 45 degrees F, so that can screw with a schedule (which they would build into a price).

Edit: stamping concrete would add a lot to the labor of the pour; it's a pain in the butt; got to get everything poured, screeded, bull floated, and then 2 guys with the stamps, and a guy tamping the stamp, all at just the right time to get a good stamp, without being too stiff or too wet. Died concrete also adds to the cost, but not that much.

 

[paulsharvey]

I've got asphalt now and it is getting pretty rough. I'm thinking about getting a quote for chip seal on top of my asphalt. I saw a driveway with that recently and it looked pretty good. The best thing is the price compared to asphalt so I've heard.

Chip seal is a good system; IF; the existing asphalt doesn't have a lot of dips/heaved areas, or need a lot of patching. Chip seal is normally either single or double application; 3/8" (9.5mm) rock and then on a double application, something like granite screenings. Where Chip seal shines is it seals everything up, and flexes, and can serve as a crack relief if ever paved over.

There is also a system called Micro Pave; which some cities and counties use on existing paved roads. It's only like 1/2 to 3/4" thick, and uses a different kinda paving train than normal asphalt. Not really ever been a part of Micropave, so thats 2nd/3rd hand.

 

[paulsharvey]

BTW, I dont mean to type out essays... just ends up that way

 

[Code54]

Heck, I been following the tread and I dont even have a paved or concreted driveway. It has been very educational and informative. Nice work on the explanations, Sir.