Rear weighting device

[herefromthere]

Nice, compact unit, and great use of recycled materials!

 

[Page2]

30 gallon barrel with the top 1/3 cut off, then filed with 6 bags of concrete.

 

[Jaygyver]

30 gallon barrel with the top 1/3 cut off, then filed with 6 bags of concrete.

The only problem I would have with that setup is the lower links are too high, at least for my usage anyway.

I have a couple of the "square" type ones and one of the connections is higher than the other. I went to dig out a ditch and I couldn't raise it high enough to clear. I used to just leave my 5' cutter on and it would barely clear.

If you don't need to have the clearance then that's probably the easy way to go.

 

[HAR]

As with everything, size does matter and each tractor/setup is different.

When I got my little B7300, it had loaded rears, but I noticed the rear end was still light at times with a loaded bucket. I chatted with my neighbor, a diesel mechanic who frequently works on farm equipment, and asked him to weld up a ballast box for me, which has helped immensely. Basically it will hold 10 solid blocks, for about a 320# combined ballast on the 3PH. Since then, I have noticed a need for a bit more weight, and solved that by ratchet strapping 4 more blocks to this setup. I may have him permanently weld on some added bracing to handle this. [Splitting wedges are low cost shims that keep blocks tight/steady during work]

I do have to admit, the loaded tires were an added benefit and are great. I have mowed with my cousins small JD with his MMM without loaded tires, and it feels much less stable when mowing inclines than with my B7300. Also, I have my rears adjusted wide (per manual) for added stability, at all times.

And, as has often been warned, and often needs repeating, never travel with a loaded bucket raised to height. Always keep the load as low a possible. Save raising the bucket until stopped or nearly stopped at location to dump or empty.

 

[sandman2234]

My JD2555 with 640 loader will dig and pick up a bucket full, right up to where the hydraulic limits are reached without any counter weight on the rear. It also doesn't have wheel weights. What it does have are foam filled rear tires, which are heavy! The previous owner said 3500 pounds per tire.
David from jax

 

[Bruze Heim]

During the winter snow removal, the front loader was overbalanced and the rear wheels were slipping. I welded a basket for the rear hitch and placed 20-millimeter plates cut from Larsen tongue into it. The work became more enjoyable.

Here's what I did with my new-to-me 2013 New Holland. I had this 3-pt. hitch bucket from my old tractor. I drilled holes in the sides for two 3/8" threaded rods to hold the 3/4" plywood in place which holds the gravel in.

I've calculated everything out and with creek gravel/sand, plus the weight of the bucket, it's around 550-580 lbs. I've had a good load of gravel in the front bucket and it seems to be fairly well balanced.

 

[nch583]

They don't make wheel weights anymore??

They make wheel weights, but for obvious reasons, they don't have them at dealerships in Russia.

 

[nch583]

I’m still new to the sport of tractoring, however, from what I read there is a difference between weight in/on your rear wheels and counterbalance weight hanging out behind a tractor… each has their place but neither replaces the other…

Then again… I could be wrong…

The disadvantage of wheeled cargo is that it has a very negative effect on the transmission (very high inertia).

 

[Bruze Heim]

They make wheel weights, but for obvious reasons, they don't have them at dealerships in Russia.

FWIW: Physics says having the weight behind the machine makes the rear axle the pivot point, lightening the load on the front axle, preventing premature wear. Wheel weights or loaded tires don't really do that.

 

[TMGT]

They make wheel weights, but for obvious reasons, they don't have them at dealerships in Russia.

Just curious why they don't have wheel weights?

Sent from my SM-S921U using TractorByNet mobile app

 

[careyo63]

63 Ford no power steering. Lost most of the use or my R. arm. So far I have been able to work around that problem. I use a old International BH. and it's super heavy. major difference back there lifted. So far I've been able to use it without PS.. My area it doesn't show up Factory used. A complete tractor or want as much for the PS. as a whole used tractor. I do have a rear scoop. I like the idea of loading it with weight. I'm thinking a old Big block motor should fit nicely. 455 Gm. 460 F. etc... should fit right on it!! box it in also just for the looks also. I do have Antifreeze in the rear tires.

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[S854]

Most rear weights posted here are centered… between the lift arms. Which, to me, is kinda like a tricycle arrangement.

Would there be a difference if the additional weight was divided in half and placed directly behind the rear wheels (mounted on each end of a box blade, for example).

The center weight styles are convenient from a manufacturing point of view and are more compact for tight quarters.

Like most things in life, I’m probably overthinking this…

 

[TerryR]

As long as there is equal weight on both sides, it doesn't matter. As far as the tractor is concerned, the weight is on the ends of the lower 3-point arms, no matter whether it's actually centered or spread out behind them.

 

[nch583]

On the smallest rear-wheel drive tractor, I have a curb weight of about 110 kilograms.Without it, the tractor skids when clearing snow .