Dirt Moving Rear hydraulic remote .

[K5lwq]

It is an interesting issue. Strange how some have this problem when others don't. Mine stays put except for normal valve internal leak. I hardly ever need to readjust during the course of a day.

I use single pilot operated checks on the side links to keep them from ever drifting. I did not on the top link because I wanted to be able to use float. Although, I have not needed float yet. Anyway, below is what they look like installed.

 

[bryn67]

Looks very impressive. At the moment I’m in discussions with the supplier and manufacturer to see if they have any suggestions. The way it looks at the moment is just sending the unit back to get it tested. I don’t want to spend anymore time on an item that would not get that much use anyway. I have managed with the screw type for the last 8 years. This was only going to be a luxury for me.

 

[K5lwq]

Looks very impressive. At the moment I知 in discussions with the supplier and manufacturer to see if they have any suggestions. The way it looks at the moment is just sending the unit back to get it tested. I don稚 want to spend anymore time on an item that would not get that much use anyway. I have managed with the screw type for the last 8 years. This was only going to be a luxury for me.

I agree it is an luxury, but it is a time saver as well. Really pays off when using a rear blade for dirt work. When I had the manual set up, I would have to stop, get off and adjust several times to get it set somewhat right. That was just the first pass, then off again to adjust for the next. Then again for the final. Now I can make those adjustments on the fly and save quite a bit of time.

 

[bryn67]

Yes that was my idea as I’m 69 and it’s a matter of looking for things which make life easier. I am going to do a bit more testing in the shed tomorrow and see if there is any way that gets rid of the air, if that’s what is causing it .

 

[K5lwq]

Yes that was my idea as I’m 69 and it’s a matter of looking for things which make life easier. I am going to do a bit more testing in the shed tomorrow and see if there is any way that gets rid of the air, if that’s what is causing it .

Just for clarification, did you have the cylinder fully extended with lines plugged and it still retracted under a load?

 

[K5lwq]

Testing the cylinder is simple in this case. With nothing attached to the cylinder and the cylinder extended 1/2 way, disconnect the hose from the tractor that goes to the blind side of the cylinder. Leave the rod side hooked to the tractor.

Now using your hydraulic valve on the tractor, try to retract the cylinder. If nothing happens, the piston seals are fine. If the cylinder actually extends then you have bad seals.

 

[bryn67]

Testing the cylinder is simple in this case. With nothing attached to the cylinder and the cylinder extended 1/2 way, disconnect the hose from the tractor that goes to the blind side of the cylinder. Leave the rod side hooked to the tractor.

Now using your hydraulic valve on the tractor, try to retract the cylinder. If nothing happens, the piston seals are fine. If the cylinder actually extends then you have bad seals.

I have tried that many ways I’m getting mixed up. I do know that I haven’t tried your last suggestion, having one plugged in and one unplugged with the engine running and operating the hydraulics. I’m not sure what is meant by the”blind side.” Will have go when finished making a video of both lines in and both unplugged.

 

[K5lwq]

Blind side is the closed end of the cylinder or the part that does not move. Watch this YouTube video.

Bypass testing a hydraulic cylinder - YouTube

 

[Amvcane]

Thanks for that video K5lwq. After viewing, YouTube suggested a similar video by Lunch Box Sessions. His channel contains many concise videos of different hydraulic systems under different conditions. The best I have seen.

YouTube

With almost everything shut down here in PA plenty of free time to go back to school.

 

[Beeenvenue]

Yep, just realize you lose "float".

Understood. About to put an hydraulic top link on for box blade, etc although most of my work will be cutting (bushog).

I do not understand why float is such a common comment. If I use my existing non hydraulic top link there is no float. I would love to have float in case I hit a stump or large rock but why is it such a concern and topic of conversation with hydraulic top links when it is not even an option with mechanical top links? (Not challenging, trying to understand pros and cons since a cylinder without dpcv is much cheaper than those with)

 

[MtnViewRanch]

Understood. About to put an hydraulic top link on for box blade, etc although most of my work will be cutting (bushog).

I do not understand why float is such a common comment. If I use my existing non hydraulic top link there is no float. I would love to have float in case I hit a stump or large rock but why is it such a concern and topic of conversation with hydraulic top links when it is not even an option with mechanical top links? (Not challenging, trying to understand pros and cons since a cylinder without dpcv is much cheaper than those with)

Being able to use the float function feature allows a 3pt mower wheel end to move up-down much further than what the hitch on the mower allows for. If you happen to need to mow banks as in down to a pond or up a bank, when backing up to do this, having a top link in float mode allows the mower to follow the ground much better in those situations. That was just an example.

Float mode is irrelevant for you if you are using factory Kioti rear remotes. Kioti does not even offer rear remotes with the float feature any longer that I am aware of.

Good luck in getting what you need.

 

[ovrszd]

Being able to use the float function feature allows a 3pt mower wheel end to move up-down much further than what the hitch on the mower allows for. If you happen to need to mow banks as in down to a pond or up a bank, when backing up to do this, having a top link in float mode allows the mower to follow the ground much better in those situations. That was just an example.

Float mode is irrelevant for you if you are using factory Kioti rear remotes. Kioti does not even offer rear remotes with the float feature any longer that I am aware of.

Good luck in getting what you need.

I didn't know that. If the tractor does not offer float, a Dpcv setup is highly recommended.

Thanks Brian.

 

[K5lwq]

I didn't know that. If the tractor does not offer float, a Dpcv setup is highly recommended.

Thanks Brian.

100% Agree! But will it help if OP has already determined the cylinder moves with both hoses capped? That is still the part I am struggling with. I know Brian made a video of a cylinder with no seals and it definitely moves, but not when it was fully extended. Which is inline with what you were explaining in the earlier post. I will see if I can find it again.

 

[K5lwq]

I finally found the video. Thank you Brian for taking the time.

Hydraulic cylinder fluid internally bypassing - YouTube

 

[bryn67]

100% Agree! But will it help if OP has already determined the cylinder moves with both hoses capped? That is still the part I am struggling with. I know Brian made a video of a cylinder with no seals and it definitely moves, but not when it was fully extended. Which is inline with what you were explaining in the earlier post. I will see if I can find it again.

I have made attempts to upload videos but am unable to do it. With the 3 point in the air I have extended the top link and disconnected the two hoses. Lowered the 3 point and the top link ram moves in to within 70mm remaining out .
If I can figure out why videos will not upload I will and send them.

 

[bryn67]

Correction it should have read 70mm not 700mm. Just found out that I can edit the post.

 

[bryn67]

Correction it should have read 70mm not 700mm. Just found out that I can edit the post.

Results from test as advised by K51wq.
With the implement in the air and the ram 1/2 way. The hose nearest to the rod plugged in and the hose nearest to tractor unplugged. I am able to bring the ram in and out as though both hoses were connected. So in effect I only need the one hose to operate the hydraulic top link. Is this a good indication that the cylinder is faulty.

 

[npalen]

Sounds like a big air bubble in the base end of the cylinder. (The end with the hose unplugged)

Edit: I'm wondering if the cylinder is installed with the ports on top or the bottom. Ports on the bottom would tend to trap air in the cylinder.

 

[K5lwq]

Results from test as advised by K51wq.
With the implement in the air and the ram 1/2 way. The hose nearest to the rod plugged in and the hose nearest to tractor unplugged. I am able to bring the ram in and out as though both hoses were connected. So in effect I only need the one hose to operate the hydraulic top link. Is this a good indication that the cylinder is faulty.

You need to disconnect the implement. Just let the cylinder hang loose and try that test again. Watch the video I posted a link to in post #48. It shows the test.

You should only try retracting the cylinder. If it extends while trying to retract, then it is bad seals.

 

[bryn67]

Sounds like a big air bubble in the base end of the cylinder. (The end with the hose unplugged)

Edit: I'm wondering if the cylinder is installed with the ports on top or the bottom. Ports on the bottom would tend to trap air in the cylinder.

Ports are at the top.