Rear Blade Rear blade question

[jlbash1]

Howdy all

This is my first time posting after months of sandbaging on this forum. I have gained so much knowledge by just reading what you all have to say. I ended up with a Kubota L2650 4wd GST in August and no regrets.

So here's the question. I am looking for a rear blade and after reading lots of posts about them I still wanted to run something by you guys. I want a 6' so a local dealer recommended a 15 series landpride for $300 or another dealer had a blade with tilt, offset, and several angel positions for $350 (it is a medium duty Southern blade, anyone heard of this brand?) I haven't made the treck to see the Southern blade yet, thought i would get a response from you guys first. I would rather have a blade that will hold up because a broken blade is still broken even if it has tilt and offset.

Thanks in advance

Jarrod

 

[bpence]

I've never heard of the Southern brand, but do have a Land Pride 4 ft. rotary cutter (aka bush hog) and am very pleased with it. Very good quality piece of equipment. A back blade with tilt and offset is probably the way to go, if the blade is of good quality. When I bought my back blade, budget constraints at the time required that I purchase an inexpensive blade from TSC, and it has worked just fine, but does not have tilt or offset capability. When I get another, it will have those features for sure.

Bob Pence

 

[Thomas]

jlbashl,
Well that a new one on me,a medium duty southern blade. /w3tcompact/icons/blush.gif

I would go with a heavy duty blade setup,for you never know what you might be pulling&pushing or might hook onto while useing the blade.

Kinda like the old carpenter say "measure twice an cut once" /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Land pride..Woods etc... are all good just depends on what you want and the check book.
Be careful on a second hand rear blade...okay.

Stay safe and enjoy your L2650.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[GeorgeH]

Jarrod
Check out the BEFCO site. I have a 60 in rear blade and it is very well built. A bit pricey but you get what you pay for. Same as with KUBOTA. http://www.befco.com/products/groundengage/rearblade.html
George

George

 

[jlbash1]

well i stopped by the dealer with the Southern blade yesterday after work. the dealer told me that it is made somewhere in Tenn. he told me but i don't remember the city. it looked pretty sturdy. i was a little concerned about that, but he says he has sold several in the past and has never had a complaint. and it does have all of the bells and whistles. i am gonna think about it some more, but i am leaning toward the southern brand blade. i'll let you guys know what i think if i get it.

FYI: Southern also makes box blades, finishing mowers, rotary cutters, and other implements.

Thanks for the input.

Have a great Christmas

 

[Rowski]

Are the southern blades yellow? If so I think I have seen them. I went with a Woods heavy duty blade due to my tractor size.

Derek

 

[jlbash1]

the dealer had some yellow ones and some red ones, he said the only difference was the color. so there you go. i guess they just aren't a big time outfit with much of a distribution. i am in a bordering state so i reckon i have a better chance of seeing them around.

merry Christmas

jarrod

 

[roysallis]

Monroe TufLine makes a very good box blade. Their web site is http://www.monroetufline.com.

Their box blades have more shanks that other blades of the same size and they are built very strong.

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Whatever blade you get make sure it is sturdy enough. I tend to get rear blades rated for more hp than the tractor. If you plan on only scraping dirt or gravel on the surface, a light weight blade will do. If you plan on trying to dig dirt go with a heavy blade. For me weight and strengh is the key. On my Kubota 3710 I use a category 1-2 blade heavy duty 7' rhino blade rated for about 80hp. A light weight blade, even on a small compact, will get bent or broke if you catch an edge on something. I have had good luck with heavy built off-brand blades. Take a look at the Southern blade. If it is well made and at a good price, I would strongly consider buying it. Compare it to other brands of similar quality, specifications and weight. The dealer should have a brochure on the blade. A blade is not a high tech peice of equipment regardless of the manufacturer.

 

[Bird]

I'll second that motion, roysallis. Right now I'm using a cheaper box blade that I figure is "good enough" but I used to have a Monroe Tufline that was much better; had to trade up from a 4' Tufline to a 5' blade when I got the bigger tractor and tried to save a little money.

Bird

 

[GeorgeH]

Sometimes a penney saved is a penny burned./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

George

 

[Bird]

Very true, George./w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif There have been several incidents in which I spent twice as much later by trying to save a few bucks initially.

Bird

 

[dullpain]

Bird - Since you had a Monroe Tufline box scraper - how do the scarifers adjust. What holds em in their place. Looked at the web site but could not tell. I did request their latest catalog.

All - Looking for opinions / applications / operation of the swinging back door on some models of box scrapers. The only box scraper I have ever owned is fixed. I can see where they could make smoothing / distributing material easier but just don't know of other applications or uses. As the swinging back door has to be more money is it worth it? Can the swinging door be adjusted to specific opening widths (much like the chained tailgate of a dump truck for metered spreading) or do they swing free?

thanks

 

[dullpain]

Jarrod - Welcome aboard. You will find this place as helpful as your Mother. Truthful answers and guidance.

If you get any more info on "Southern" I would be interested as I am in Mid TN. Haven't heard of them yet.

As someone else in the thread said "not a high tech instrument" if you look at it and like it, priced right, built heavy, it'll be OK. There are a ton of small time manufactuers out there , some good, some not so good.

lem

 

[roysallis]

McCallum, the scarifiers are easy to adjust. There is a pin that wedges in between the scarifier and the frame. Just pull the pin out, it is chained to the frame so it will not get lost, and raise or lower the scarifier and then reinsert the pin. The scarifiers have slots cut in them so that it slides over the frame. The pin goes in behind the scrafier and wedges it tight. I did not spend the money for the hinged rear blade. It's main use is for smoothing. Landscape contractors find this feature useful. It cannot be adjusted, it swings free. I also have a grader blade by and disk by Tufline. They make good equipment. I have been by their plant in Columbus, MS and talked with them. They gave me a tour of the plant. All the folks there were nice. They are making a rock rake now but I don't think it it on their web site yet because they are waiting until they get set up to make them with gauge wheels. Everyone that I know that has Tufline equipment agrees that it is good stuff, especially for the price.

 

[Bird]

McCallum, I'd be glad to answer your question, but roysallis has beat me to it. So. . ., ditto./w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

Bird

 

[jlbash1]

Hey guys

Thanks for all of the input. I'll keep you informed on what I learn about Southern's implements. It may be a little longer than expected though. I have a water leak somewhere to deal with and depending on how much $$ that eats up....well we'll see.

Thanks again guys

Jarrod

 

[Thomas]

jlbashl,
Isn't that how it works for it seem things break down during mostly when you have free time to relax or winter. /w3tcompact/icons/frown.gif
Than the equipment breaks down at a distance from repairs which means extra work. /w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif

Hope repairs went well and the cost was low.

Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif

 

[Anonymous Poster]

Jarrod,

I have been looking at blades for awhile. Monroe Tufline looks hard to beat. I am getting a GB1 6 foot blade for my 1320 NH. It has all the bells and whistles also. Dealer quoted me $500.00. This Southern blade sounds interesting for the money. Get some pictures!

Cliff

 

[Anonymous Poster]

For the past few weeks, I've been using a neighbors 6' rear blade on my JD 1070. On occasion I've had to swing the blade 180 degrees to go from pulling material to pushing. This is not a problem, as long as I swing my drawbar to one side.

This tool has been quite useful and I'm thinking of adding one to my tool inventory. I'm in the Notheast and would have use for a blade to help with snow removal. I like the Landpride Series 35 because it offers three options; angle, tilt and offset. My tractors rear tire width is 6' and with the blade I'm using now, the tire width is not covered when the blade is angled. Therefore I'm thinking about a 7 foot unit which leads me to my question.

I have no trouble swinging a 6 foot blade 180 degrees, but I dont' think I have the clearance to do this with a 7' blade. Since the Series 35 has the offset feature, I'm curious to know if this would give me the necessary clearance.

All comments and opinions would be appreciated. Thanks.

Russ