Rear Blade Rear Blade Problem

[oldballs]

My new Rhino 200 rear blade only touches a flat surface at its tips. Thus when scraping snow off a driveway or even dirt grading the outer edges dig in and the center part is about 3/8 " off the surface. Is this a defect in the product and can the dealer correct it? I dismantled the blade from the mold board, but there is no adjustment that's allowed. This TBN board is so helpful. Thanks, everybody.
Oldballs, Mike

 

[kthompson]

So if you run a string or straight edge from one end to the other it clears every where when in contact with both ends only. Right?

There probably is some tolerance on how much clearance is acceptable with this and that probably would best come from Rhino. It would be something I don't think would be easy to fix are at least on any blade I have ever seen.

Then is it possibly the cutting edge only and changing it out solves the problem. No idea on your model but some have blades designed with both edges usable, if yours is have you tried the other edge?

 

[oldballs]

Thanks, thompson. Having taken the blade off the mold board, it's not reverseable. But when I get to the dealer, maybe he can have Rhino replace it with a straight one....or maybe he can grind the tips off some. Maybe I could run down a concrete hyway for a while.....that ought to level it out.

 

[beenthere]

3/8" ?
Not many more uses, and you will have that much ground off the tips.

Can't imagine 3/8" is much of a problem scraping snow off. That is a pretty thin layer of snow.

 

[jimmer2880]

Can you take a picture so we are sure what you are talking about? If the blade is straight (not on a left/right angle), does all of it touch?

 

[leveller]

If the blade has a slight curve to it, may be all you need to do is lenghthen your top link a little bit. Set your blade down on a flat surface, then adjust top link till bottom edge touches all the way across. May or may not work, just a thought

 

[Opti-Mist]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

 

[KennyV]

...or maybe he can grind the tips off some. Maybe I could run down a concrete hyway for a while.....that ought to level it out.

I use to reshape my 14' Cat motor grader blade just that way... curl all the way forward angled first full CW then CCW... you could hone a razor sharp cutting edge quickly... Did not take many yards of honing to keep it in nice shape. KennyV

 

[leveller]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

I agree with you, just wondered if he had top link adjusted properly.

 

[JDGreenGrass]

Actually, with the rig setting on a flat surface, the rear blade frame should be level fore and aft and side to side with the top link mast vertical. Adjusted thusly the blades should stay level when angled throughout the range from full right to full left. Shortening or extending the top link will result in one side being higher than the other depending on which direction it is angled.

I also agree with you.

Question....What position is the top link mast when it is "vertical." I don't understand.??

I agree about using the top link to "tilt" the blade a bit.

 

[oldballs]

Thanks for the ideas everybody. The blade just is not level when it sits down on a level surface. Thus, when grading snow, the two ends really scratch my new concrete driveway, as well as leave a shallow hump of snow in the middle. Maybe some more dirt grading later this year will hone it down on the tips. Maybe my dealer can grind it straight, when I bring it to his attention.

 

[rambler]

Well - if the 2 corners hit at the same time, I would say your blade is 'level', but if it doesn't touch in the middle, it would be 'bowed'. That might be why folks are a little confused as to what is going on.

Typically you hit something hard and the blade bows fore or aft. In your case, it is bowed up in the middle?

BUT if the blade is bowed for or aft, it might show up as what you are talking about. Lengthening your top link would make this effect disappear, so that is the only thing we can think of.

--->Paul

 

[Baby Grand]

Get your eyes and the blade where you can sight down the cutting edge of the blade with the attachment mounted on your tractor.
If the edge is crooked fore to aft then it is bowed;
if it's crooked up and down, then it's crowned.
-Jim

 

[YotaBota]

You need to loosen up your toplink to drop the middle of the blade. As you do that, your corners will rotate up and not dig in. If your top link is too tight your blade looks more like this \. As you loosen it it will look like this ), and if you loosen it some more, maybe too much it'll look like this /. This is what I figured out when I installed my rear blade. When the toplonk is as tight as it will go, I get the greatest height, which is necessary when I am loading onto the trailer, but then I have to re-adjust when I am plowing. When the toplink is loose, you get the least amount of height when you raise the unit.

John

 

[oldballs]

Okay! Now it's making some sense to me. Seems like many times when I think there is a defective product, it just my defective thinking Now if this next storm brings some snow, I'll check that out with the top link adjustment. Thank you all.

 

[beenthere]

Post some pictures pls. We like pics and maybe can offer some more hints.

 

[oldballs]

Hey...65 years ago I took typing and took pictures with a bellows camera. But I haven't stayed up with the times for computer pizzaz and digital cameras. Maybe after I pay for all these new tractor attachments, I'll get the fancy camera and figure out whether I'm Bowed or it's Crowned.

 

[wedge40]

reading your description that does sound like you got a defective product. I guess people are having a hard time with the fact that the blade edge looks like a frown instead of a straight edge. I'd take the blade back or maybe the whole unit and ask for a replacement if it's still new. If you know anybody who can build another edge that might help. You could take to someone to put a bead of weld along the edge and then gride it straight.

Wedge

 

[jenkinsph]

I think if the straight edge you bought is not straight you should take it back. Surely if you were to run this on a crowned road long enough you may have this problem, but a new blade should be straight. If it doesn't start out true I don't think it is going to get better with time.

 

[jnjpream]

Take it back and get a different one.. The blade should be straight AND flat. If you have two corners touching the ground at the same time while the middle of the blade is not, then there is something wrong with it.

As for tilting the blade fore and aft, personally I use that to control the aggressiveness of the cut. If the blade is not straight and flat, you can't do that.