Rear Ballast Weight DIY Build

[Bearsixty7]

I was pouring a slab and figured to have excess concrete so I had the ballast box built and ready. I wanted something that didn't stick back far or wider then the tractor for manuevering in tight spaces.
I calculated the dimensions and was aiming for 1,000 lbs (~50% of what my loader lift capacity is). I got close enough for me .
To me the ideal weight of the rear ballast should be 50-70% of your loader lift capacity.

Your tractor will lift a lot with no ballast, so with 50% or more on the 3pt, you can lift all your loader can handle and the rear tires will stay planted.

 

[garry1p]

I was planning to add ballast more to prevent roll over, I seldom have much weight in the FEL but don't like the tipsy feeling I get on a shallow side hill.
Now I'm not sure if I have the right idea or is it the same principal.

 

[MTGreen]

I was planning to add ballast more to prevent roll over, I seldom have much weight in the FEL but don't like the tipsy feeling I get on a shallow side hill.
Now I'm not sure if I have the right idea or is it the same principal.

Some ballast is often a good idea -might also look at spacing the tires out & filled tires

 

[EddieWalker]

I was pouring a slab and figured to have excess concrete so I had the ballast box built and ready. I wanted something that didn't stick back far or wider then the tractor for manuevering in tight spaces.
I calculated the dimensions and was aiming for 1,000 lbs (~50% of what my loader lift capacity is). I got close enough for me .
To me the ideal weight of the rear ballast should be 50-70% of your loader lift capacity.

Your tractor will lift a lot with no ballast, so with 50% or more on the 3pt, you can lift all your loader can handle and the rear tires will stay planted.

View attachment 842151View attachment 842152 View attachment 842153

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

 

[Bearsixty7]

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

You're welcome.
I do recommend spending more time placing and SECURING the PVC pieces for tool holders (Shovel, pitchfork, rake, etc). I last minute threw in 2 scrap pieces that were too short and didn't secure them. I had to position them and hold them in place while the concrete went in. I should have had pieces long enough to go to the bottom board and secured them in place so that rain water would just run out the bottom. One day I'll use a mason bit with an extension and drill them on through the bottom.
I also had planned to install a small board in the form with a 45 degree bevel by the lower 3pt links to provide hookup clearance in the concrete. I forgot and had to use a mason chisel to remove some concrete.

 

[EddieWalker]

I've seen where some people put tubes in their ballast to hold shovels, or something else. What do you use the shovel for? Do you haul stuff around in the ballast box? It's been my experience that if I need a shovel for something, it's part of a bigger project like fencing, and I have a big load of stuff that I'm hauling to where I'm working.

It would be simple to add some PVC tubes to a ballast box, I just don't see what I would use it for.

 

[old and tired]

...I just don't see what I would use it for.

I removed the tubes from mine, wasn't worth it. I didn't put a drain in the tubes, so they just filled with water. Also found a manhole cover that fit perfectly on the top of the 55 gallon drum that I used.

I'm thinking of modifying mine to set out even further back away from the tractor to increase the effect of the ballast. I need to relocate the 3PH pins anyway, so trying to kill 2 birds with one welding job.

 

[CADplans]

Thanks for the pictures. I didn't think about having a way to lift up the ballast and move it around when it's not on the tractor. Having the rebar sticking out like that would make it easy to pick up with a chain and move it out of the way if I needed to!!!

Luckily, the guy that built my welding table thought ahead and added a lifting loop.
That top is double 1/4" steel sheet, plus structure,,
my estimate is that the top weighs 700 pounds.

I can move it with forks, (my 48" forks reach beyond the center of the 6 foot width/length)
but, lifting off that loop on the side is MUCH safer!!

The legs are kinda flimsy,, probably only 150 pounds total,, but, it survives!!

 

[Bearsixty7]

I've seen where some people put tubes in their ballast to hold shovels, or something else. What do you use the shovel for? Do you haul stuff around in the ballast box? It's been my experience that if I need a shovel for something, it's part of a bigger project like fencing, and I have a big load of stuff that I'm hauling to where I'm working.

It would be simple to add some PVC tubes to a ballast box, I just don't see what I would use it for.

I haven't used the ballast box a lot, I usually have the backhoe or boxblade on. The few times I did, I carried a square shovel in the ballast box for the material cleanup or fine tuning I couldn't do with the loader bucket.
The rebar loop also has served as a tie down for my chainsaw in it's carry case when moving some trees/brush with the grapple.

 

[sixdogs]

I've weighted a lot of tractors and have found rear wheel weights are the best choice because it leaves the three-point open and distributes the weight better. The price is high but these days many weights cross over and fit many other brands. This matters because at auctions or on resale, odd branded weights bring way less money. You can somewhat search this online from the places that sell knock-off weights and it's increasingly common that weights cross-fit. Used weights are often hard to sell.

The counter weight works but I've never felt comfortable with the weight on the rear or hydraulics. I may have used a heavy implement on the rear as a stopgap while I locate used weights, however.

Loaded rears don't work for me. First, they all corrode the wheels and the weight makes trailering difficult or impossible without bigger equipment.
Here's a picture thread I did on removing "non-corrosive" windshield washer fluid from loaded rears.

Think washer fluid in rear tires won't corrode?

I bought a used tractor with rears loaded with windshield washer fluid. Granted, it's not calcium chloride and most people think it doesn't corrode but here are some rusty pics. Tires were loaded for "a couple" years I was told and look at the rot. Luckily, I caught it in time and dumped the...

www.tractorbynet.com

My tire shop will no longer change beet juice loaded tires from rears so I'll add that. I don't know why. Also, I've decided buying a tractor with loaded rears doesn't work for me any more unless I really want it. I usually have to replace the wheels and some are shocking expensive.

Just my personal opinion.