Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help

[rgold1963]

I can get an old Howard 60" rotavator for next to nothing but I need to make a new driveshaft for it. The gearbox has a yoke instead of a spline shaft coming out of it with a u-joint and another yoke with a short square shaft. The other end is a square tube with a u-joint and splined yoke that is 1 1/8. The square tube is cracked though and my tractor pto spline is 1 3/8. I have no idea where to find a new square tube that would work and was wondering if I can use a completely new driveshaft by just removing the yoke from one end and conecting it to the yoke on the gearbox? Does anyone know if that might work or have any other suggestions? While old, this thing looks like it has quite a bit of life left in it and is built like a tank.
TIA,

Ron

 

[banjodunn]

I can get an old Howard 60" rotavator for next to nothing but I need to make a new driveshaft for it. The gearbox has a yoke instead of a spline shaft coming out of it with a u-joint and another yoke with a short square shaft. The other end is a square tube with a u-joint and splined yoke that is 1 1/8. The square tube is cracked though and my tractor pto spline is 1 3/8. I have no idea where to find a new square tube that would work and was wondering if I can use a completely new driveshaft by just removing the yoke from one end and conecting it to the yoke on the gearbox? Does anyone know if that might work or have any other suggestions? While old, this thing looks like it has quite a bit of life left in it and is built like a tank.
TIA,

Ron

G'day if you can match up the uni to a modern one then that should work fine. Have a real good look where the yoke goes into the g/box as I have not seen any that come straight out into a yoke they are usually keyed or splined


Jon

 

[rgold1963]

I will get some pictures of it later today. The yoke coming out of the gearbox has a center castle nut that holds it onto a short splined shaft but it's nothing like I've seen before. It definitely won't take a typical quick release type end on a regular driveshaft.

Ron

 

[Spikes]

Ron,
Does the shaft with the castle nut on it have a bolt / bolt hole through it and the attached yoke on a smooth round shaft? If so it's just a shear pin yoke setup - common parts.
If you can get a picture or two up I can likely help, we do PTO stuff all day at the driveshaft shop.

 

[rgold1963]

The sahft from the gearbox is splined with a threaded end for the castle nut. Here are images of the whole thing. Hopefully these will help. The old driveline has no shear bolt or clutch which would be nice to add if possible. The tractor end is 1 1/8 which I can either get an adapter for or possibly just change to a 1 3/8 connector if I end up having to use this end.

Ron

 

[Spikes]

Looks like 14N series (1" x 1 1/8" shaft). You could just replace the tractor end of the shaft and keep the implement end. Should cost around $150 for the sleeve, tube, weldyoke, U-joint and 1 3/8" QD yoke assembled to your length.

 

[rgold1963]

The shaft on the implement end looks to be 1 1/4 square with a key that fits into the existing sleeve (which is cracked as can be seen in the picture) Would the new sleeve fit that or would I have to replace the shaft/weld yoke on that end as well?
Thanks for the info!

Ron

 

[Gator6x4]

Check the yellow pages and ask at automotive repair facilities if a Business is close that specializes in drive shaft repairs. I have seen some quality work done on PTO shaft repair and refurb by such facilities.

 

[Spikes]

There is no key on the shaft, there is usually a spot of weld on two opposing sides of the rectangular inner shaft at the end of it, used to prevent the shaft from being slid together 90* out of 'time' (u-joint ears should line up on both ends).

If the inner shaft is indeed 1" x 1 1/8" (99% sure it is), the new sleeve will slide right onto it.

 

[Spikes]

You could even just get that sleeve cut off and a new one welded on that shaft. The sleeve should be around $30 - 40 and figure about $30 for welding labor.

 

[rgold1963]

I need to measure everything tomorrow and see if it's long enough the way it is now or if I need some additional reach when the rotavator is on the tractor. If the rain stops long enough, I am planning on hooking it up tomorrow to see how it looks.
Thank you for all the help and suggestions! It looks like I will be able to get this thing to work on my tractor after all.

Ron

 

[howardrotavator]

This looks like the E Series I Howard Rotavator with the USA PTO. The PTO would be a 35N series. From the photos, it does not look like an English Hardy Spicer PTO that was fitted to many Howard Rotavators. What is the bearing cap diameter and distance across the cross kit with the caps fitted? If you can send photos of the complete machine and any marking such as gearbox casting number, I can likely identify the model. The E Series I has a clutch with 9 springs on the rotor at the left hand end.

 

[aczlan]

I agree with those saying that you only need to replace half of the shaft. If there isnt a slitch or chearpin on the otherside of the gearbox, I might look and see if a slip clutch such as PTO Slip Clutch, 1-3/8 in. 6 in. Spline Shaft - 0271211 | Tractor Supply Company would fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox. Less chance of breaking something that way.

Aaron Z

 

[scrappy isb67]

I agree with those saying that you only need to replace half of the shaft. If there isnt a slitch or chearpin on the otherside of the gearbox, I might look and see if a slip clutch such as PTO Slip Clutch, 1-3/8 in. 6 in. Spline Shaft - 0271211 | Tractor Supply Company would fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox. Less chance of breaking something that way.

Aaron Z

not a conventional gearbox(doesn't have a stubshaft for a shearpin/slipclutch) it looks a whole lot like the pinion shaft to a live axle. so no slipclutch on the input. by looking @ the pics, the yoke needs pulled and the seal needs replaced behind it!

 

[rgold1963]

This looks like the E Series I Howard Rotavator with the USA PTO. The PTO would be a 35N series. From the photos, it does not look like an English Hardy Spicer PTO that was fitted to many Howard Rotavators. What is the bearing cap diameter and distance across the cross kit with the caps fitted? If you can send photos of the complete machine and any marking such as gearbox casting number, I can likely identify the model. The E Series I has a clutch with 9 springs on the rotor at the left hand end.

Thank you!

Here are more pics of the entire unit. Looks like it has the clutch on the rotor which is good news because I wasn't sure if I would be able to get one added on to the driveline. A frined of mine has the driveline at his shop right now so I can't measure the cap diameter or the u-joint but he thinks they can make it work pretty easily. The plate with the serial number (shown in one of the pics) is impossible to read. I might be able to clean it up more but am not sure if there is enough left to read on it. Let me know if you can identify the model and if there are parts still around for them. As someone else noted, the seal behind the gearbox yoke needs to be replaced as well as a few of the tines.

Ron

 

[howardrotavator]

Hi Ron, I'm sure this is an E Series I from the photos. Send me an email at howardrotavator2007@yahoo.com and I will email the Parts list and Operating Instructions for the tiller.
Steve

 

[rgold1963]

Hi Ron, I'm sure this is an E Series I from the photos. Send me an email at howardrotavator2007@yahoo.com and I will email the Parts list and Operating Instructions for the tiller.
Steve

Thank you Steve!

 

[rgold1963]

So I have a new driveline made and have the oil seal to replace. Another question is what to use to drive the new oil seal in without damaging it? I don't have anything with a hole large enough to go over the gearbox driveline and still cover enough surface area of the seal. Has anyone figured out a good way to do this?
Thanks ,

Ron

 

[rgold1963]

Problem solved. Picked up some really large flat washers to use as spacers then used the castle nut on the shaft to press them against the seal. Went in without too much trouble at all. Just waiting on some bolts to show up so I can replace the tines and it's ready to go. Hopefully we will have a couple more dry days at some point this Fall so I can get some work done with it. Crazy amounts of rain the last week.

 

[koshari]

hi ron, are you still running this tiller?