Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help

[rgold1963]

I need to measure everything tomorrow and see if it's long enough the way it is now or if I need some additional reach when the rotavator is on the tractor. If the rain stops long enough, I am planning on hooking it up tomorrow to see how it looks.
Thank you for all the help and suggestions! It looks like I will be able to get this thing to work on my tractor after all.

Ron

 

[howardrotavator]

This looks like the E Series I Howard Rotavator with the USA PTO. The PTO would be a 35N series. From the photos, it does not look like an English Hardy Spicer PTO that was fitted to many Howard Rotavators. What is the bearing cap diameter and distance across the cross kit with the caps fitted? If you can send photos of the complete machine and any marking such as gearbox casting number, I can likely identify the model. The E Series I has a clutch with 9 springs on the rotor at the left hand end.

 

[aczlan]

I agree with those saying that you only need to replace half of the shaft. If there isnt a slitch or chearpin on the otherside of the gearbox, I might look and see if a slip clutch such as PTO Slip Clutch, 1-3/8 in. 6 in. Spline Shaft - 0271211 | Tractor Supply Company would fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox. Less chance of breaking something that way.

Aaron Z

 

[scrappy isb67]

I agree with those saying that you only need to replace half of the shaft. If there isnt a slitch or chearpin on the otherside of the gearbox, I might look and see if a slip clutch such as PTO Slip Clutch, 1-3/8 in. 6 in. Spline Shaft - 0271211 | Tractor Supply Company would fit onto the input shaft of the gearbox. Less chance of breaking something that way.

Aaron Z

not a conventional gearbox(doesn't have a stubshaft for a shearpin/slipclutch) it looks a whole lot like the pinion shaft to a live axle. so no slipclutch on the input. by looking @ the pics, the yoke needs pulled and the seal needs replaced behind it!

 

[rgold1963]

This looks like the E Series I Howard Rotavator with the USA PTO. The PTO would be a 35N series. From the photos, it does not look like an English Hardy Spicer PTO that was fitted to many Howard Rotavators. What is the bearing cap diameter and distance across the cross kit with the caps fitted? If you can send photos of the complete machine and any marking such as gearbox casting number, I can likely identify the model. The E Series I has a clutch with 9 springs on the rotor at the left hand end.

Thank you!

Here are more pics of the entire unit. Looks like it has the clutch on the rotor which is good news because I wasn't sure if I would be able to get one added on to the driveline. A frined of mine has the driveline at his shop right now so I can't measure the cap diameter or the u-joint but he thinks they can make it work pretty easily. The plate with the serial number (shown in one of the pics) is impossible to read. I might be able to clean it up more but am not sure if there is enough left to read on it. Let me know if you can identify the model and if there are parts still around for them. As someone else noted, the seal behind the gearbox yoke needs to be replaced as well as a few of the tines.

Ron

 

[howardrotavator]

Hi Ron, I'm sure this is an E Series I from the photos. Send me an email at howardrotavator2007@yahoo.com and I will email the Parts list and Operating Instructions for the tiller.
Steve

 

[rgold1963]

Hi Ron, I'm sure this is an E Series I from the photos. Send me an email at howardrotavator2007@yahoo.com and I will email the Parts list and Operating Instructions for the tiller.
Steve

Thank you Steve!

 

[rgold1963]

So I have a new driveline made and have the oil seal to replace. Another question is what to use to drive the new oil seal in without damaging it? I don't have anything with a hole large enough to go over the gearbox driveline and still cover enough surface area of the seal. Has anyone figured out a good way to do this?
Thanks ,

Ron

 

[rgold1963]

Problem solved. Picked up some really large flat washers to use as spacers then used the castle nut on the shaft to press them against the seal. Went in without too much trouble at all. Just waiting on some bolts to show up so I can replace the tines and it's ready to go. Hopefully we will have a couple more dry days at some point this Fall so I can get some work done with it. Crazy amounts of rain the last week.

 

[koshari]

hi ron, are you still running this tiller?