Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help

   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #1  

rgold1963

Bronze Member
Joined
May 21, 2010
Messages
69
Location
Washington
Tractor
TYM 293HST
I can get an old Howard 60" rotavator for next to nothing but I need to make a new driveshaft for it. The gearbox has a yoke instead of a spline shaft coming out of it with a u-joint and another yoke with a short square shaft. The other end is a square tube with a u-joint and splined yoke that is 1 1/8. The square tube is cracked though and my tractor pto spline is 1 3/8. I have no idea where to find a new square tube that would work and was wondering if I can use a completely new driveshaft by just removing the yoke from one end and conecting it to the yoke on the gearbox? Does anyone know if that might work or have any other suggestions? While old, this thing looks like it has quite a bit of life left in it and is built like a tank.
TIA,

Ron
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #2  
I can get an old Howard 60" rotavator for next to nothing but I need to make a new driveshaft for it. The gearbox has a yoke instead of a spline shaft coming out of it with a u-joint and another yoke with a short square shaft. The other end is a square tube with a u-joint and splined yoke that is 1 1/8. The square tube is cracked though and my tractor pto spline is 1 3/8. I have no idea where to find a new square tube that would work and was wondering if I can use a completely new driveshaft by just removing the yoke from one end and conecting it to the yoke on the gearbox? Does anyone know if that might work or have any other suggestions? While old, this thing looks like it has quite a bit of life left in it and is built like a tank.
TIA,

Ron

G'day if you can match up the uni to a modern one then that should work fine. Have a real good look where the yoke goes into the g/box as I have not seen any that come straight out into a yoke they are usually keyed or splined


Jon
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help
  • Thread Starter
#3  
I will get some pictures of it later today. The yoke coming out of the gearbox has a center castle nut that holds it onto a short splined shaft but it's nothing like I've seen before. It definitely won't take a typical quick release type end on a regular driveshaft.

Ron
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #4  
Ron,
Does the shaft with the castle nut on it have a bolt / bolt hole through it and the attached yoke on a smooth round shaft? If so it's just a shear pin yoke setup - common parts.
If you can get a picture or two up I can likely help, we do PTO stuff all day at the driveshaft shop.
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help
  • Thread Starter
#5  
The sahft from the gearbox is splined with a threaded end for the castle nut. Here are images of the whole thing. Hopefully these will help. The old driveline has no shear bolt or clutch which would be nice to add if possible. The tractor end is 1 1/8 which I can either get an adapter for or possibly just change to a 1 3/8 connector if I end up having to use this end.

Ron
 

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   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #6  
Looks like 14N series (1" x 1 1/8" shaft). You could just replace the tractor end of the shaft and keep the implement end. Should cost around $150 for the sleeve, tube, weldyoke, U-joint and 1 3/8" QD yoke assembled to your length.
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help
  • Thread Starter
#7  
The shaft on the implement end looks to be 1 1/4 square with a key that fits into the existing sleeve (which is cracked as can be seen in the picture) Would the new sleeve fit that or would I have to replace the shaft/weld yoke on that end as well?
Thanks for the info!

Ron
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #8  
Check the yellow pages and ask at automotive repair facilities if a Business is close that specializes in drive shaft repairs. I have seen some quality work done on PTO shaft repair and refurb by such facilities.
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #9  
There is no key on the shaft, there is usually a spot of weld on two opposing sides of the rectangular inner shaft at the end of it, used to prevent the shaft from being slid together 90* out of 'time' (u-joint ears should line up on both ends).

If the inner shaft is indeed 1" x 1 1/8" (99% sure it is), the new sleeve will slide right onto it.
 
   / Really old Howard rotavator driveshaft help #10  
You could even just get that sleeve cut off and a new one welded on that shaft. The sleeve should be around $30 - 40 and figure about $30 for welding labor.
 

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