Re-Usable Hydraulic Hose Fitting Tutorial

[kennyd]

Carl, the primary purpose of the reusable fittings is so an operator can repair a hose assembly while in the field away from a hydraulic shop. Also when you are experimenting with a hyd system and you need a hose with specific fittings on it, right now. They certainly do cost more, but are reusable.

Who is Carl? It would be easier to follow your post if you would quote who you are replying to...

 

[Low Bucket]

All parts (hoses and Fittings) where purchased from Discount Hydraulic Hose. I only needed the 1/4" hose and fittings for this project, but all the sizes are assemble the same way.

Hey Kennyd what a great thread!- Thanks for sharing this!!!

You explained how to use them very well, and you made it look easy with the pictures.- I voted excellent on this!

I have never used these but would like to if needed after seeing this thread.- They would be great for fixing a leak in the field.

Thanks for putting the links in the thread also.- Now I know where to get the fittings if I can't find them local.- I'll ask our mechanics at work tonight if they know where to buy the fittings.

Thanks again for taking the time to post this!

-Paul

 

[J_J]

Well, Kenny, I answered to the post above mine, to woodlandfarms, who's name is Carl.

 

[woodlandfarms]

Some ends are more expensive, but the hose is a lot cheaper-plus no labor cost. And you get the exact length hose you want for a perfect fit. Hard to nail down an exact cost savings, but I think there is some.

Thanks for the picture. for the most part it will work in my application, but there are just a couple of connections where that 1/4" means something.... friggin PT engineers...

Carl

 

[3RRL]

Hi Kenny,
I just wanted to say, (like many others), what a great tutorial thread you made.
Everything you said is bang on and should surely be of value to many others. There is one thing I's like to add. That is if you look closely at the Discount Hydraulics reusable hose ends, you will notice some are less expensive than others. What I did with Loretta's tractor was choose as many of the less expensive fittings as I could. I ordered hose to match. In my case, I found the 3/8 hose fittings were very reasonable ... and used 3/8 hose even though I could have (should have) used 1/4" like you did. In any event, her fittings are holding up great with zero leaks.
Again, thanks for the great thread Kenny !!

 

[Hooked_on_HP]

I want to clarify something from my earlier post. The reason I replace the hose when I get back after the repair has nothing to do with the use of reusable fittings. I figure if the hose blew once the hose is getting weak and will blow again.
Bill

 

[SPYDERLK]

Here is the completed fitting. The stem should NOT be tightened to the collar-but rather a small gap left.

...

A very informative tutorial. One question... Why should the stem not be snugged to the collar? Years ago I bought a dozen short hoses with reusable fittings from a military surplus outlet associated with the Air Force in San Antonio. [This was a cheaper way to get the fittings.] The assemblys bear Mil Spec collars captured on the hose between the fittings. All the stems are snugged to the collars.
larry

 

[kennyd]

A very informative tutorial. One question... Why should the stem not be snugged to the collar? Years ago I bought a dozen short hoses with reusable fittings from a military surplus outlet associated with the Air Force in San Antonio. [This was a cheaper way to get the fittings.] The assemblys bear Mil Spec collars captured on the hose between the fittings. All the stems are snugged to the collars.
larry

Larry, I wish I could answer your question with authority, but I was just following verbal instructions That I received from DHH when I called them. Maybe HHG can give us the reason.

 

[jlrsn]

A very informative tutorial. One question... Why should the stem not be snugged to the collar?

The nut-nipple of the fitting (female end) should not be snugged tight but just loose enough to allow the nut to be turned for installation and correct alignment of the hose without binding.

I've been making up Mil-Spec hoses for aircraft since the 50s. I use installation mandrels and have equipment to proof test a Mil-Spec hose up to 10,000 lbs.

The following are simple guidelines for making up Aircraft Mil-Spec Hoses but are similar enough to give you an idea of how to do it.

For simple hose assembly mistakes see:
Common Mistakes when fabricating Aircraft Hose Assemblies

For more info see:
http://www.parker.com/literature/St...iterature Static Files/SPD P-107 Pamphlet.pdf

Jim

 

[SPYDERLK]

The nut-nipple of the fitting (female end) should not be snugged tight but just loose enough to allow the nut to be turned for installation and correct alignment of the hose without binding.
Jim

Thanks. Makes sense for fittings without a built in swivel function. The JIC females allow for that swivel inherently during installation and the nipple is also fitted with a hex to hold the nipple still in correct alignment while installing the finished hose, which explains why mine were snugged up.
larry

 

[Ductape]

Am I the only one who will ask what all the hoses you are making are for????

Call me nosey !

 

[kennyd]

Am I the only one who will ask what all the hoses you are making are for????

Call me nosey !

You are the first

2 Projects:
1) HTL (hydraulic top link)
2) New 3rd function valve to replace my diverter valve that runs my grapple.

 

[Wayne County Hose]

The nut-nipple of the fitting (female end) should not be snugged tight but just loose enough to allow the nut to be turned for installation and correct alignment of the hose without binding.


Jim

This doesn't make sense unless I'm missing something. A crimped fitting doesn't allow for this, why should a reusable?

Andy

 

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

A very informative tutorial. One question... Why should the stem not be snugged to the collar?

Larry,

We are using instructions from one of our fitting manufacturers that recommend a gap 1/32" to 1/16" of an inch between the collar and the stem.

The reason for this gap is to avoid overtightening which may put additional stress on the stem. Some people, if told to tighten a bolt until it's snug, will continue to tighten it "just to make sure" it's snug. If this happens, you may stretch the stem, putting stress on the fitting that is not only unnecessary, but could possibly compromise the integrity of the stem. Theoretically, overtightening it dramatically could create enough stress that might at some date lead to the stem snapping off in the hose.

The gap eliminates this possibilty, so the gap is a good thing.


Ken Hutchinson
Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

 

[SPYDERLK]

Larry,The reason for this gap is to avoid overtightening which may put additional stress on the stem. Some people, if told to tighten a bolt until it's snug, will continue to tighten it "just to make sure" it's snug. If this happens, you may stretch the stem, putting stress on the fitting that is not only unnecessary, but could possibly compromise the integrity of the stem. Theoretically, overtightening it dramatically could create enough stress that might at some date lead to the stem snapping off in the hose.

The gap eliminates this possibilty, so the gap is a good thing.
Ken Hutchinson
Discount Hydraulic Hose.com

Thanks Ken... Sad... I was afraid that might be it so I used snug rather than tighten. Degrade the assembly by leaving a gap to protect against overtightening by the clueless. It is difficult to explain how to know when to stop, so stop before they even touch. I will go ahead and snug mine to unify the assembly as it should be.
larry

 

[dcyrilc]

Thanks Ken... Sad... I was afraid that might be it so I used snug rather than tighten. Degrade the assembly by leaving a gap to protect against overtightening by the clueless. It is difficult to explain how to know when to stop, so stop before they even touch. I will go ahead and snug mine to unify the assembly as it should be.
larry

Companies have to try to make things stupid proof these days. Look at the guy who sued a motorhome company and won because he put it on cruise control and went back to make a cup of coffee. Need I say more? CYOA!

 

[Wayne County Hose]

I checked the Weatherhead instructions and they say to assemble them until the 2 halves touch. I guess either way would be acceptable as long as you don't overtighten as Ken says.

 

[J_J]

Not trying to be a smart guy here, just want it to be right when some noobie searches. Once the fitting has been removed, the hose should have the end cut off before a fitting is installed again.

I completely re-plumbed my Case 310 dozer with these fittings. Trust me, the larger fittings are not cheap.

Hey Brian Very nice work of the restore. What did you use to degrease all the metal before painting? Did you use a Case factory color, and if so, where did you get the paint?

 

[Low Bucket]

Look at the guy who sued a motorhome company and won because he put it on cruise control and went back to make a cup of coffee. Need I say more? CYOA!

What does this have to do with this thread?

It just ruins the whole thread.

 

[Discount Hydraulic Hose]

Companies have to try to make things stupid proof these days. Look at the guy who sued a motorhome company and won because he put it on cruise control and went back to make a cup of coffee. Need I say more? CYOA!

Just to be fair, that story is a myth. No evidence has been found to back up this story, or any of the others that were circulated in an email a few years as winners of "Stella Awards" (named after Stella Liebeck, the woman who sued McDonalds because their coffee was too hot).

Stella's story is true, and she won her lawsuit. The other stories were all found to be fiction.

As far as making things "stupid proof," it's kind of a necessity if you're in business.