Rail Iron Smudger

[AussieJohn]

Who has built or used one of these, or similar.
Idea is to use it to smooth rough ground in the spring and autumn.
The photos show a rough mock up of the layout planned.
It will have a 3 point hitch with a floating top hitch (similar to most slashers or brush hogs) the plan being to use it behind a MF35.
The 35 lifts the weight with relative ease and still steers ok.
I favour setting the front and rear level with the centre rail forward of centre

 

[mjncad]

Welcome to TBN John. I suggest you do a search for "landplane" as we call them here as that might give you some ideas. A number of members have built their own.

 

[sixdogs]

All that weight should do a great job of scraping the surface, especially if not a lot of rocks. Please post photos along the way if you can.

 

[davedj1]

I would build something in the shape of a V or two that way all the dirt removed will get brought back in and re used for low spots. Otherwise I think that the dirt will just spill out the sides or ride up and over and become a problem.
Something more like this: Land Leveler - Freedom® 3pt. Implements

 

[Ed of all trades]

My dad built one and had the blades on a slight angle so the dirt ect. would spill off of one side. We ran it so that the front blade cut pretty good the middle one less and the back blade would barley drag the ground. Worked very well. I like the angle.

 

[CNC Dan]

you might want to lookup "split log drag"

 

[AussieJohn]

So Landplane is what you call these things.
Searched for Landplane as mjncad suggested.
Lots of land planes, land graders and drags out there and some great ideas from tractorbynet members. Found these interesting.
.
but this one from oreok has sent me back to the drawing board.

Now to figure out how much angle and protrusion to put rail iron on.

 

[catdozer]

There are many build threads on landplanes. The one picture you posted is the one i built, very simple design

 

[travlitt]

Pic. of the one that I built.

 

[Redbug]

I remember seeing someone on these forums that made a land plane attachment that hooked onto the bottom of his box blade. He could take it on and off the box blade. Pretty ingenious. Do any of you guys remember it? That would be a good way to go.

 

[mjncad]

A lot of landplanes have the cutting blades angled a few degrees.

You might take a look at Land Pride's "grading scrapers" as they call them for additional ideas. Land Pride is one of the better implement manufacturers in the USA.

Grading Scrapers | Land Pride

 

[AussieJohn]

Finally I got to spend some time this arvo to mock up my landplane.
Insiration has come from tractorbynet member builds

Obviously I am using what materials I have on hand wherever possible, hence the rail iron.



If the top links don稚 cut for adjustment I will go for bolts as per orezok's design, hydraulics would be gr8.
The plan is to pivot the front edge of the rail iron up 25mm and down 25mm from level, which should allow for all gound and material conditions.
The final build will have gussets and reinforcement.

 

[AussieJohn]

Nearly finished, make four 1" pins tomorrow, tip it right way up and go try the theory.
Summer just finished here so ground is hard.

 

[Redbug]

That's pretty professional, John. I can see how you may get some orders over there. Is metal expensive over there like it is over here?

 

[AussieJohn]

One Mate donated the s/h channel and other the s/h Rail Iron, then scavenged flat bar off cuts from yet another mates scap bin (he has a Engineering Shop). He also gave me the MIG welder and a quick lesson last week, prior to that I have always welded stick.
The top links and wear strips are new. Every thing is expensive over here except the Chinese stuff.

John

 

[AussieJohn]

Finally finished today.

These things find the high spots on roads.

Blades were tilted back when leveling track. (Material relatively loose)
Paddock work required the blades to be tilted forward, but ran out of time as it was beer o'clock.
I have had planes before, adjustable blades seem to be the way to go.
Might consider front blade being controlled by hydraulic ram.

 

[Redbug]

What do you think it weighs? It looks like for that that size rail...it is about 300 pounds per 6 foot length. So...total weight around 1100 pounds?

 

[bcp]

If his rail is 4 1/2 inches high, 4 1/4 base (post 12), then it is about 60-70 pounds per yard.

Tee Rail Section Data | A&K Railroad Materials, Inc.

Bruce

 

[AussieJohn]

Never worked the weight out first as I have had 3 pt hitch smudgers (Landplanes) before.
Just piled the 3 lengths of rail well back on my rear forks and drove it around to see how well it steered and lifted the weight (MF35 with 3 cyl Perkins).
It is flat land here, but would build it lighter and longer for hilly country.
The Rail is 60 lbs per yard, 2 @ 6' and 1 @ 6' 6'' so about 370 lbs total for rail alone.
But after using it decided it could do with some weight on the rear so added a frame to hold 5 x 30 lb bricks from an old heater. Weight is comfortable when raised but will not go heavier.

The rear blade is now more effective and the hole thing less inclined to tip forward when the front blade digs in hard, note I am using a drop down top link. It is not really practical to lower the lower hitch point as the plane would lift of the ground when the front of the tractor dipped in a hole.
Cannot tilt rear blade down enough, need to cut off rear blade adjuster anchor post and move it forward 90 mm a mistake I made thinking the front and rear blades were exact mirror images.

 

[orezok]

Good build!