Question on Plow size

Michigan_Mike · Mar 10, 2005

What are the advantages and disadvantages of the different sizes of plows?
I've been talking with a local dealer who sells 12" and 14" moldboard plows (1 and 2 bottom in each size), and I'm not sure which way to go.

I have a JD 790, and the soil is pretty good (not clay), so I THINK I can handle any of the 4 configurations.

Does the 14" just dig deeper?
Is that necessarily a good thing?

Thanks

rdln · Mar 10, 2005

Well, even though you dont want to go to out local chapter meeting, I'll answer this. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

you might be able to pull a 2-12 in sandy soil but that would be it. The size means working width of the furrow so the 2-12 would give you a 24" furrow.

Indydirtfarmer · Mar 10, 2005

Generally speaking, a plow should be used at a depth of around 1/2 of it's width. So, that 12" plow would work at 6" deep. You can USUALLY plow an inch or so deeper. The wider the plow, the rougher the surface will be left (Also generally speaking) Wider plows tend to deal with "trash" better. (corn stalks, weeds, ect) In the late 70's/early 80's, moldboard plowin fell out of favor on big farms for several reasons. The last years of it's popularity, WIDE plows were the norm. 18"-20"even 22" wide bottoms weren't uncommon. That left the surface rough. That was by design. The rough surface resisted wind and water erosion. It also left small "furrows" that helped hold water to be absorbed into the ground (in areas plagued by low water levels)

A 12" plow will pull MUCH easier than a 14". It is 2" narrower, as well as works better at 2" shallower. From my experience, 3 x 12" will pull easier than 2 x 16". Consider how much of an area you're plowing. If it's a relatively small area, such as a garden, you'll be starting and stopping quite a bit, as compared to a 100 acre field. Go with a plow that is well under the "load" you can pull at maximum. That will be MUCH easier on your clutch/transmission/engine/ect....

sweettractors · Mar 10, 2005

If that 790 is around 30HP? You should be able to go with a 2-12 or a 1-16. The 2 bottoms pull much easier than you would imagine. A TO20 Ferguson 55 years old and 20 hp, has no problem with a 2-12 configuration. As discussed on this forum in the past, most old timers that have been around a while had rather have a good used older plow, ie Dearborn-Ferguson-JD than 2 of the new TSC type plows.--Ken Sweet

BarryinMN · Mar 10, 2005

You need to find the pulling or ripping force of your tractor config then calculate the pulling force needed by the various plow configurations & pick one at or below your tractor config limits.

It's a numbers matching game. In general terms you want 7-10% wheel slippage at 3-5 mph for most efficient power transfer of the tractor into the ground. Turning topsoil only - not so deep to bring up subsoil. Set coulters deep enough to only cut trash. They take extra HP but make pretty furrows. Follow your plow manual for adjustments on the 1st 2nd & 3rd cut. The birds will follow you picking out worms. In the unlikely event you make a mess disc it out quick and follow up with a cultivator tine harrow or spike harrow. Nobody will know!

Some people complain about hard pulling plows - it's because they didn't bother to set it up properly!

Add in the roots, rocks, slopes, weather conditions & the practical advice given here on the TBN board & you should be good to go!

TNhobbyfarmer · Mar 10, 2005

A few years ago I bought a 3 bottom Ford plow. I had a tractor big enough to pull it, but didn't have a clue how to set it up or how to plow. I made a big mess of that field. It looked like the ocean on a real windy day. The local good ole boys got quite a laugh at my expense. I have since learned how to plow and enjoy doing it. You know, this farming thing is a great hobby and I love doing it, but don't let anyone tell you that it is easy. Experience is the best teacher. I've made a lot of mistakes and spent a lot of $ with my trial and error experiences. It's a good thing I have a real job to pay the bills. I'd be bankrupt if I had to depend on farming.

Michigan_Mike · Mar 11, 2005

That's why I'm on this list.
If I didn't have to ask these basic questions, I would have more time to attend the meeting. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Thanks for the advice. Sounds like I need to avoid the 2-14

Michigan_Mike · Mar 11, 2005

Thanks for the information.
My initial thought was that with a 2-12, I could get it done in half the time as a 1-12.
But seeing that I wil be doing small areas at a time, the difference woud only be 2 or 3 hours.

Michigan_Mike · Mar 11, 2005

I agree Ken. I would have preferred to get a used one, but they don't show up very often. And when they do, if you're not driving the pick-up and have cash in hand, by the time you get back, it's already sold.
As a side note, the dealer isn't TSC, but a local farmer who also sell implements. I think the brand he sells is Western?

Michigan_Mike · Mar 11, 2005

I'll be ready as soon as the snow is gone. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Of course, that might not happen until July.
We got another 2 inches last night.

JerryG · Mar 11, 2005

Take special notice of Ken Sweets post. The only thing that I would say different is that I believe that you could go a big as 2-14s. I have pulled 3-14s with a tractor with only 3 more hp than your tractor. I don't know how the tractor weight would compare between the two tractors thought. The weight of the tractor makes a lot of difference in how they pull plows. And to emphasize one thing that Ken said, There are a world of difference between the old MF, JD and Oliver plows compared to the new plows. The old ones were designed for lots of work, not one garden once a year. You might also look at Kens web site, he has some good plows, for good prices.

Argee · Mar 12, 2005

I have a Ford NH 1715 and a 2-14 Dearborn...I have no trouble pulling this plow...you shouldn't either. Once you get it set up and pulling right, it goes pretty smooth.

DaMadman · Mar 14, 2005

I've got a BX23 and a single bottom 12 inch plow and the tractor pulls it like it isn't even there. never pulled a 2 or 3 bottom plow but would imagine that the tractor would handle a 2 with no problem. I do a 1/4 acre garden and I was done plowing it in less than an hour onece the plow was set up.

DaMadman · Mar 14, 2005

oh and BTW I plowed it the length of the garden first, fertilize it then If I can find a decent disc this year, I am going to disc it, then use the plow to plow it across the garden and plow it up into rows. Plowing it into rows across the garden takes a bit more time because there is a lot more stopping and turning around. In years past I would plow and fertilize, then till it with a walk behind tiller (took forever, but was good exercise) then I still used the plow to plow it across into rows, then if I needed to I would hand rake the rows into hills for things like squash and melons that don't grow well in rows.

Soundguy · Mar 14, 2005

</font><font color="blue" class="small">( never pulled a 2 or 3 bottom plow but would imagine that the tractor would handle a 2 with no problem. )</font>

No offense.. but I'd be highly surprised if it handles a 2 bottom adequately. Not only do you need the hp.. but weight is a factor...

Soundguy

Michigan_Mike · Mar 15, 2005

Well, according to JD, the 790 unballasted operating weight is 2105 lbs. A FEL would add to that, but as it's in the front, it might not have a positive effect.
How does that measure up to the tractors you use?