Question on model names

[keenlanp]

Folks,
My understanding is that US models are named based on engine hp and whether they are 2 or 4 wheel drive and powershift or "normal" transmission. So my 240D is a 24 horse 4 wheel/front assist model with a normal gear tranny. So, what's up with the 135, 155, and 165? Tractor data.com list them all as even hp (13 for a 135, etc.) when the normal naming convention would indicate 13.5, etc.. So why the 5 on the end? On a somewhat related note, what is the 169? I think all of the US model powershifts end in a 6 or 7, so what does the 9 in the 169 indicate?

On a totally unrelated note, does anyone have the dimensions for a 135? It is one of the models without that info on tractor data.

Thanks as always for the education and have a great week.

 

[workinonit]

You'll go crazy tying to figure that out.

 

[clemsonfor]

There different powershift locations. I know the grey versions like 2010 and 2020 were I believe on the trans a d on the dash/steering column respectively. May e I ha ethat reversed. I'm sure the american models like 186 187 are similar I just don't remember. Pretty bad. I have a 186 sitting outside right now, but it's not running and I bought it this way and I have t hot around to it.

 

[California]

YM186 had the Powershift shift lever on top of the transmission (early) then on the left side of the dashboard (late). The same parts manual covers both of those. Then YM187, the subsequent similar model, was all dashboard shifter - I think. YM187 has a slightly larger chassis for more legroom, wider tires, its essentially an upgraded 186.

Yes I think the Japan-market models used 10 or 20 to indicate transmission or dash shifter location The 20's were subsequent to the 10's.

Also the US market models are named for engine naked dyno hp while the Japan-market models were named for the PTO output hp. YM240 = YM2000 etc. Those two have the same identical engine. Also YM186 (US) = YM1510 (japan). Same engine, same tractor. In both these sets of twins the US versions have some safety-feature differences, otherwise identical.

 

[winston1]

Folks,
My understanding is that US models are named based on engine hp and whether they are 2 or 4 wheel drive and powershift or "normal" transmission. So my 240D is a 24 horse 4 wheel/front assist model with a normal gear tranny. So, what's up with the 135, 155, and 165? Tractor data.com list them all as even hp (13 for a 135, etc.) when the normal naming convention would indicate 13.5, etc.. So why the 5 on the end? On a somewhat related note, what is the 169? I think all of the US model powershifts end in a 6 or 7, so what does the 9 in the 169 indicate?

On a totally unrelated note, does anyone have the dimensions for a 135? It is one of the models without that info on tractor data.

Thanks as always for the education and have a great week.

You can see the 135 dimensions here.

 

[CoyPatton]

For a starter the US YM models were YMXXX. The first 2 numbers were Engine HP ratings. I am not sure on what the 3rd digit represented
On the gray market (build for japan markets and then later imported ti US and other countries), are a YMXXXX. On these the 1st 2 numbers represents the PTO HP. The last 2 digits represents different features. 00 being a ‘base’ model and usually a 2 cylinder engine. 10 being a power-shift model with the gear selector on top of the tranny, and 20 being on the dash.
On both XXX and the XXXX a D at the end indicated 4x4 or front assist (if you will).
So to use mine as an example YM2002D, is a gray market, 20hp at the PTO, 3 cylinder engine (has a bit less of the classic Yanmar hammer), has a creeper range (have only used it to verify it works, a baby can crawl faster than 3rd gear) and 4x4

Hope that clarifies some of your questions.

 

[HoyeTractor]

And then, just when you think you have it figured out, there are the 3 digit gray market models like the YM177 and YM273 and then the YM1502 without wet brakes and the YMG2000 3 cylinder tractors that go and mess it all up. :laughing:

 

[California]

And then, just when you think you have it figured out, there are the 3 digit gray market models like the YM177 and YM273 and then the YM1502 without wet brakes and the YMG2000 3 cylinder tractors that go and mess it all up. :laughing:

Aaron, have you issued a recent list of best-supported models based on parts you stock or can obtain? How about JD stuff?

 

[HoyeTractor]

I have been working on that list a little more this year just to add some specific model examples but I keep getting sidetracked. Not much has really changed though. Pretty much all of the YM stuff is still going pretty good. There are some very slow selling & very expensive to reproduce stuff that is hard to get right now like maybe the YM1300D/YM155D 4wd knuckle castings and some of the YM1510 4wd knuckle gears. Stuff like that. We've looked into getting some of those pieces reproduced but it is a very large investment that will just never pay off. We have reproduced a lot of stuff that we knew would never pay off just to keep the tractors going but, once you start to get quotes in the 5 digits, it gets harder to swallow

 

[California]

... We have reproduced a lot of stuff that we knew would never pay off just to keep the tractors going...

Everything you do to keep these great tractors alive is greatly appreciated!

 

[clemsonfor]

Everything you do to keep these great tractors alive is greatly appreciated!

I agree. It may also be hard to gauge or capture the added value of your investment as well. Many folks will buy a whole list of parts from you because they know you reproduce that knuckle or spindle or something else that no one has. I guess my point is, someone came to you cause you had that part that was NLA and because you had it and there happy you did they want to do business with you, so they go ahead and buy filters all the bearings they need, seals, and gaskets etc. Stuff you might not have even sold if that person had not seen that initial rare part with you.

 

[bmaverick]

There are some very slow selling & very expensive to reproduce stuff that is hard to get right now like maybe the YM1300D/YM155D 4wd knuckle castings and some of the YM1510 4wd knuckle gears. Stuff like that.

Aaron, there are a few machine shops across the country making fabricating old tractor parts as 1,2,3,4 knock-offs. Could the gears be made that way? Some shops have laser cutting or water jet cutting or CNC Wire-EDM. The trick is, having an actual part or a reversed engineered CAD model. I've done a few parts in SolidWorks-2018 already. Before this covid thing, I was engineering parts for Deere. The parts are now in production. Also, it's not just the part shapes either. Japan metal grades per JIS are not like out ANSI metal grades here in North America. Even the sheet metal gauges are different. Some things are very close though that the reproduction wouldn't be any issue.

 

[HoyeTractor]

Aaron, there are a few machine shops across the country making fabricating old tractor parts as 1,2,3,4 knock-offs. Could the gears be made that way?

We have contacted many custom gear shops here in the US over the years and were just never able to make anything work out on those smaller quantities. The setup costs just seem to be a killer on those which I can understand. I had a few gears made by a small shop here a few years ago that turned out great but they were something like $500ea with a 20pc minimum... and then the shop was closed down when we tried to re-order. It was a relatively complex gear though. The latest gear we shopped around was a small spider gear and the best quote was something like $12-$15K to make the first gear and I think each additional gear was only something like $5-$10. You have to sell a lot of them to ever cover the cost of that first one though.

 

[FleetMan]

A couple thoughts, any techies on the forum that are familiar with computer printing a gear? When on active duty, USAF, my Field Maintenance Shop had a tracing machine we used to make parts which were no longer being manufactured. Sometimes the tracing and machining could take well over a day but you ended up with an exact replica of what you needed. Cost - ???.

 

[bmaverick]

A couple thoughts, any techies on the forum that are familiar with computer printing a gear? When on active duty, USAF, my Field Maintenance Shop had a tracing machine we used to make parts which were no longer being manufactured. Sometimes the tracing and machining could take well over a day but you ended up with an exact replica of what you needed. Cost - ???.

Fleetman, 3D metal printing a gear is costly too. It's called Direct Metal Laser 3D Sintering. GKN is the biggest name in this area. And a bit pricey.

Like I mentioned, I use SolidWorks with an add-on product called CAMnetics/GearTraxxs. Camnetics It does wonders making the 3D CAD models. However, adding up the costs of the software can put you near $4K and then the computer at $1K.

If we were talking toy tractors, plastic gears would be king and really cheap. But, metal gears are where our tractors engines shine for doing all the grunt work.

I really understand Aaron's ordeal. There are a few mom+pop places that bought CNC machines on the auction block for pennies on the dollar. Just time, labor and material costs these people look for vs. a full blown ISO9001 certified shop.

For straight cut spline gears, these can be knocked out easy and the cheapest. Beveled gears, ring gears and spider gears are not cheap to reproduce, let alone knowing the steel hardness requirements too.

If part dimensions are known for a gear, there are gear manufactures with some common gear offerings. However, that takes manpower and time searching.