Question for other owners of LS tractors

[Lawrence Black]

New to the site, here.

I have a question concerning my LS 3135 (bought new in 2015). I bought it to begin reclaiming the property that was the family farm I grew up on and I've been brushhogging the acreage, slowly pushing back the brambles, small bushes and wild raspberry/blackberry plants using a 5' rotary mower deck with a slip-clutch (I need to clear about 50-60 acres).

The first couple years, everything was going along well, but this year I've had an issue with the tractor derating after a few hours of continuous use of the rotary mower. Running the mower deck will drag the engine rpm down a few hundred, but the engine will recover if I push the clutch in and ease the load on the PTO. When this happens, I usually just find a clear area and initiate a regen (the tractor is equipped with a Tier 4 diesel engine) . The issue is that I have checked the rear axle housing and find it too hot to keep my bare hand on it for more than a second or two. Is this normal for a compact tractor? I don't recall ever seeing this with a full size tractor.

The LS is direct drive with a shuttle shift on the dash, and the hydraulic oil does double duty as the gear oil for the PTO and drive train, as well as running the 3-point hitch and front loader (the front axle has a separate lube system). The oil level for the rear axle doesn't show any signs of contamination or leakage.

Nothing in my owner's manual mentions anything like this, and my dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, but I'm worried about potentially damaging the PTO.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

 

[Sparkeee24]

It sounds like tractor may be just a size or two too small for your tasks, or taking it too fast. Is the chafe screen clear? Radiators clear? What about a binding load in cutter like barb wire? A lot of clutch slipping? Sounds like something that may cause premature problems if not adressed. Could be as simple as new fluid.

 

[Lawrence Black]

Thanks, Sparkeee24.

I sized the mower for the HP of the tractor. I mow at the recommended rpm and travel in middle range, 1st gear. Radiator and screens clear and no indication of overheating. I checked the deck for wire and it's clear. The clutch isn't slipping at all, unless I happen to mow woody brush (mower can shear up to 1" stock w/out issue). "Premature problems" is just what I'm worried about.

I checked the oil in the gearbox of the mower deck. It's full, but when I pulled out the check screw, the fluid did look a little brownish, almost as if it has gotten some water in it. But the gearbox never gets hot, and there's no sign of any leakage. I may just go ahead and replace the fluid anyway, just in case.

 

[countrybumpkin]

When’s the last time the fuel filters have been changed?

 

[SPYDERLK]

New to the site, here.

I have a question concerning my LS 3135 (bought new in 2015). I bought it to begin reclaiming the property that was the family farm I grew up on and I've been brushhogging the acreage, slowly pushing back the brambles, small bushes and wild raspberry/blackberry plants using a 5' rotary mower deck with a slip-clutch (I need to clear about 50-60 acres).

The first couple years, everything was going along well, but this year I've had an issue with the tractor derating after a few hours of continuous use of the rotary mower. Running the mower deck will drag the engine rpm down a few hundred, but the engine will recover if I push the clutch in and ease the load on the PTO. When this happens, I usually just find a clear area and initiate a regen (the tractor is equipped with a Tier 4 diesel engine)View attachment 568290. The issue is that I have checked the rear axle housing and find it too hot to keep my bare hand on it for more than a second or two. Is this normal for a compact tractor? I don't recall ever seeing this with a full size tractor.

The LS is direct drive with a shuttle shift on the dash, and the hydraulic oil does double duty as the gear oil for the PTO and drive train, as well as running the 3-point hitch and front loader (the front axle has a separate lube system). The oil level for the rear axle doesn't show any signs of contamination or leakage.

Nothing in my owner's manual mentions anything like this, and my dealer doesn't seem to think it's a big deal, but I'm worried about potentially damaging the PTO.

Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

I do not have an LS, but I have several gear tractors in the 25 - 45 HP range.

The degree of heat you mention is not alarming. A tractor working hard on a 80-90 degree day will get hot from stem to stern. It was pretty amazing to me to experience it on my 2010 JD in long term heavy mowing with a 5' bushog. It got so my feet were uncomfortable on the floor platform -- in shoes!
. . . The bushog gearbox was just comfortably warm.​

============​

Is your derating a computer controlled function? Perhaps a sensor or software parameter needs to be assessed by the dealer. :confused3:

 

[Texasmark]

Get a non contact thermometer and shoot around your machine. Sometimes HF has them for 19 bucks. Oil starts derading up around 250F range so if you are below that I wouldn't worry. On the fluid, check your owner's manual. May be time to change it and the tran/hyd filter. Ensure that you use "premium" trans/hyd fluid made for todays tractors with wet brakes and hydro steering and all. Your tractor may have 3 coolers up front of the engine: Hydraulic, AC, and engine radiator. Ensure all are clean.

 

[Lawrence Black]

The filters--and all fluids except anti-freeze--were changed for it's 50 hr break-in service. That was about 18 months ago and I'm just at 112 hours now. I did check things out and found a slight kink in the hydraulic hose leading to the radiator for the hydraulic/transmission fluid. I took care of that and hopefully that will address the issue of the too hot rearend casing. I also took out the air filter and cleared the dust from that. (It was a little dusty, but far from seriously clogged)

I'll know more tomorrow if that fixes my issue. If not, it's still well under the extended powertrain warranty and I'll call the dealer back on Monday.

 

[Lawrence Black]

Thanks for the information about the heat issue. I may have used the wrong term when I spoke about "derating". It's more like it just loses power if faced with heavy grass (which it never had a problem with before) or climbing a grade more than ~30 degrees (also something new). The regen light almost never lights up, but that was what the dealer told me to try when I had this issue one time last year. I did a forced regen but the problem persists. As I wrote in another reply, I did find a hose leading to the hydraulic fluid radiator that had a slight kink. I fixed that so it may lessen the extreme heat some.

If the problem persists, it's still under the manufacturers extended powertrain warranty so I'll just call the dealer on Monday.

 

[Lawrence Black]

The hyd oil and engine oil were changed for the break-in service at 45 hours. I'm only at 110 hours now and my manual says it's not due for a change until 500.

 

[Ivan49]

Check your air filter brush hogging causes a lot of dust and the air filter may need to be cleaned everyday. Also check the screen on your radiator

 

[countrybumpkin]

Change the fuel filter or at least drain it and check for water or contaminates.

 

[SPYDERLK]

Thanks for the information about the heat issue. I may have used the wrong term when I spoke about "derating". It's more like it just loses power if faced with heavy grass (which it never had a problem with before) or climbing a grade more than ~30 degrees (also something new). The regen light almost never lights up, but that was what the dealer told me to try when I had this issue one time last year. I did a forced regen but the problem persists. As I wrote in another reply, I did find a hose leading to the hydraulic fluid radiator that had a slight kink. I fixed that so it may lessen the extreme heat some.

If the problem persists, it's still under the manufacturers extended powertrain warranty so I'll just call the dealer on Monday.

Whenç—´ the last time the fuel filters have been changed?

It does sound like fuel starvation.​

I know your filter has been changed, but fuel that has some water in it can foul a filter pretty quick.

A mildly fouled pleated filter will slowly collapse as the tractor runs under load and finally starve the flow. When you turn the tractor off for awhile the filter rebounds and again allows free flow for a time - but high load pulls more fuel and the problem repeats.​

 

[Lawrence Black]

I didn't know that about the fuel filter. Good info. I'll check into that next. Thanks. The fuel light and water in fuel light have never come on, but maybe a filter issue wouldn't trigger a sensor? As I said, I'm not all that up on the new technologies for these new compact tractors.

 

[Texasmark]

Couple more thoughts about power loss: Is fuel from a reliable source and one wouldn't think it would be a problem at your hours of usage, but have you checked the air filters and ensure they are clean? I can't help you with Tier IV potential problems as I don't have one.

One more. If you have the mower over cut grass so that there is no resistance to the blades turning, can you disconnect the PTO from the tractor and easily rotate the shaft by hand....yes I know it takes more effort to initially get it to turn but once turning, pressure to keep it turning.

On oil color, it may be rust from inside the gearbox. I don't know about Rhino nor their source of boxes but my experience with such on mowers of the sort is that they aren't built like gearboxes in your tractor.....interiors I have looked at aren't painted like tractor oil sumps are. If the gearbox sits dry before selling the unit (which a lot of them do...with the tag to be sure to fill before use), or sits over the years with oil in it at the recommended half full level (aka full plug midway up the side of the housing) condensation can cause the interior to rust which would tint your gear oil brown. Now, what does it hurt? Don't know. Probably 95% of the boxes out there are rusty inside and I guess they all work.....mine do and did over the years. I don't go around looking in them....check oil fill but that't about it.

 

[Lawrence Black]

Thanks for your input. The PTO turns freely by hand, no binding or sounds of rubbing. I've been getting my fuel from the same place since I had it delivered, but they could also have gotten a "bad batch".

SPIDERLK pointed out that even a small amount of water can cause filter failure. I haven't had any sensor lights go on, but that'll be my next thing to check today. I'm really hoping I don't have to bring the dealer in to this. It's under warranty, but I'd still have to pay for travel time ($85/hr) and they are 70 miles from here. That's $200 before they even do anything.

 

[Lawrence Black]

For anyone interested, I've contacted the LS dealer about my issue. He agrees with me that water in the fuel doesn't seem likely, since I don't have a bulk tank here at home (I buy my fuel 5 gal at a time) and it's highly unlikely that a new fuel filter would fail after only 60-some hours.

He suggested that it may be an emissions issue. Some other owners have contacted them with similar power issues and it was a situation where the Regeneration system wasn't working properly, leading to a heavy concentration of soot in the DPF. Unfortunately, the only way to diagnose this for sure is to put it on the computer, sooooooo I need to transport my tractor to the dealer and they will take care of it up there and let me know later what the problem is. $$$

 

[Footsteps]

We bought a LS 3038 in 2015, got the backhoe attachment, Bucket and pallet forks. Tractor has 1350 hours on it now. We use this mainly in a large garden, moving chips, compost, stones etc. Maint has been kept up. Clutch is shot and has to be replaced, 4wd stopped working after it slipped out of gear with a pop while dumping compost. Cant understand why the clutch is gone so fast, has been adjusted twice. Certainly cant understand how the 4wd can possible be broken. Tractor is headed to the dealers next week, has anyone else had any issues with their cluthc or 4wd going south so fast? Paint is cheap, seat all cracked, paint falling off the seat backs, just seems to be a cheap tractor with many issues. Have had tractors for 60 years with no major problems and this thing just keeps having issues. Little light on dash (Looks like a open lock) flashed one and off for a couple days then when away? It never came on fully just kinda flickered.

 

[countrybumpkin]

Well hope you get it fixed.

 

[Gary Fowler]

We bought a LS 3038 in 2015, got the backhoe attachment, Bucket and pallet forks. Tractor has 1350 hours on it now. We use this mainly in a large garden, moving chips, compost, stones etc. Maint has been kept up. Clutch is shot and has to be replaced, 4wd stopped working after it slipped out of gear with a pop while dumping compost. Cant understand why the clutch is gone so fast, has been adjusted twice. Certainly cant understand how the 4wd can possible be broken. Tractor is headed to the dealers next week, has anyone else had any issues with their cluthc or 4wd going south so fast? Paint is cheap, seat all cracked, paint falling off the seat backs, just seems to be a cheap tractor with many issues. Have had tractors for 60 years with no major problems and this thing just keeps having issues. Little light on dash (Looks like a open lock) flashed one and off for a couple days then when away? It never came on fully just kinda flickered.

That sounds a lot like you may have been using it in 4WD on a hard surface like concrete, asphalt or even well packed dry dirt that put a bind on the driveshaft. When it un-torqued quickly from popping out of gear, it may have sheared the front drive shaft. I sheared mine when pulling a stump. Had it in 4WD, Low 1st gear just creeping with all 4 tires spinning slowing when the 3/8"grade 70 chain snapped. The quick unloading of the system sheared the front drive shaft like it was cut with a bandsaw.

 

[Lawrence Black]

For anyone who may be interested, there's been a couple new developments with my LS XR3135 tractor.

I had the unit transported back to the dealer about a month ago. After a couple of weeks I called to check on the progress/diagnosis and they told me the turbo was defective and had quit. Fortunately, everything is still under the 5 year powertrain warranty.

A few weeks later, having not heard anything more, I called again. That's when they told me that I may need a new engine. At 112 hours, WTH? They told me that they thought an internal part of the turbo had been damaged due to the extreme cold of the previous winter, potentially causing a valve to remain open when it should have closed at the moment of turbo failure, allowing shavings to be drawn into the motor. They were in consultation with LS Corporate about the matter and LS advised them to check a few more things before they decided to junk the motor, suggesting the EGR valve could be the culprit.

Fast forward to this past Tuesday. The dealer tells me they are "99% certain" that the motor is not toast and that the culprit is, indeed, the EGR. They've ordered one and it should arrive by the end of this week. They're going to replace the EGR, do another forced regen and put it on the dyno. If there's no drop in rpm and power when put under a load, I'm good. If not, it's back to the Easter egg hunt, or a new motor (which will likely take at least another 2 weeks).