puncture resistance of ag vs ind tires

[kenmac]

what brand tractor are you buying ? I thought you had a stable of tractors.
Best thing about the ones you have.... No emissions !

 

[Soundguy]

I'm going to get an RK. ( TYM/Yanmar ).

I do have a stable of antiques, plus a couple decades old 100hp NH.

I just finally want a new tractor that shows up with whiskers on the tires, plastic on the seat and paper in the floorboard, no rust, no immediate wrenching required etc.

These antiques are starting to cost enough to maintain that thinking about new is a viable option. A 100$ battery, 300$ radiator, 150$ gas tank, 165$ in a tire and rim, power steering lines, etc.. That's what the old loader tractor needs, in fact could really use 2 tires and rims.

I'm overloading its loader and front axle lifting the sometimes 1200# bales. It would love a kingpin and bushing. Front pump is getting a bit weak, etc.

Mowing tractor really needs a new front steering pedistal, its an old 1piece early ford rowcrop. Seals and bearings are hard to source, mines been into at least twice. Last time I went in, stuff is sooo worn I did some custom welding and fabrication to keep it together. 10 years of mowing 13 ac for 11months of the year have finally used all the good out of the front pedistal. A 2 piece from a later model would bolt on.. If i $$bought$$ one. It could use a radiator too, and is probably a season away from a clutch. It would love 1 new front rim and tire too.

Adding up the costs to get them both back to "daily use" readiness with good confidence, I'm 25% into a tractor that will last me till I don't need one or shouldn't be driving one anymore

My 63yr old wife can't operate any of my old manual antique tractors either. The new one will be cab,ac, hydro trans. She will be able to use it if I suddenly kick off for some reason.

I love working on a tractor.. But am becoming less fond of working on them the older I get if you catch my drift.

 

[ovrszd]

With your history of solid old school iron I suspect you are going to be disappointed. I'm hoping not.

 

[aczlan]

The debate continues

Yes it goes on and on my friend. Some people started the debate, not knowing what it was but they'll continue it forever just because it's the debate that never ends

Aaron Z

 

[Diggin It]

We may get 3-4 inches of snow this week, so I may take mine out for a ride, just to settle the debate, at least for me, at least under those conditions.




Subject to change.

 

[kenmac]

My GF and I mow at least 13 acres with the z turns. It takes about 6-7 hrs to mow. The rest I have let go back to mostly woods and brush.

I think you'll like the HST. I went from the old yanmar power shift to the HST . I really like it. Even the GF can operate it. push pedal forward tractor goes forward. Push pedal back, tractor moves back.. She said. This is easy to operate !

 

[Turbys_1700]

You will love the cab. I love mine.

I would opt for the loaded R4's.

I know where you are coming from Soundguy. I really wanted the comfort of a cab over an open station. My last Workmaster was IMHO the perfect size for what I was doing but no cab. Thus the trade for the T4.75.

Now I am mowing with an old Toro Groundmaster and relegate the tractor to duties everything else. I still have my 6 foot rear finish mower. A smaller cabbed compact may be in my future.

I hope the RK works well for you. To my knowledge TYM makes solid units.

Keep us updated and pictures are required.

 

[Trillium Farm]

Sundguy it sounds good on paper but the reality is that you'll feel powerless when the electronics begin to falter. New tractors sure look good, but they are fragile and not as stout as the old battle axes, furthermore you'll see that resale value may not be what it should due to those blasted electronics.

 

[LouNY]

I'm going to get an RK. ( TYM/Yanmar ).

I do have a stable of antiques, plus a couple decades old 100hp NH.

I just finally want a new tractor that shows up with whiskers on the tires, plastic on the seat and paper in the floorboard, no rust, no immediate wrenching required etc.

These antiques are starting to cost enough to maintain that thinking about new is a viable option. A 100$ battery, 300$ radiator, 150$ gas tank, 165$ in a tire and rim, power steering lines, etc.. That's what the old loader tractor needs, in fact could really use 2 tires and rims.

I'm overloading its loader and front axle lifting the sometimes 1200# bales. It would love a kingpin and bushing. Front pump is getting a bit weak, etc.

Mowing tractor really needs a new front steering pedistal, its an old 1piece early ford rowcrop. Seals and bearings are hard to source, mines been into at least twice. Last time I went in, stuff is sooo worn I did some custom welding and fabrication to keep it together. 10 years of mowing 13 ac for 11months of the year have finally used all the good out of the front pedistal. A 2 piece from a later model would bolt on.. If i $$bought$$ one. It could use a radiator too, and is probably a season away from a clutch. It would love 1 new front rim and tire too.

Adding up the costs to get them both back to "daily use" readiness with good confidence, I'm 25% into a tractor that will last me till I don't need one or shouldn't be driving one anymore

My 63yr old wife can't operate any of my old manual antique tractors either. The new one will be cab,ac, hydro trans. She will be able to use it if I suddenly kick off for some reason.

I love working on a tractor.. But am becoming less fond of working on them the older I get if you catch my drift.

I know exactly where you are coming from, I hemed and hawed for quite awhile when I bought my Branson 8050, I had an Oliver 1550 and IH 574 for driveway and property use. They did the job, might not be the most comfortable, the fastest or easiest to use or operate. They weren't real hard to work on and if they broke down when needed I had access to several other tractors. I still wrench on a lot of equipment for my brother on the farm but I got to the point where I didn't want to work on mine and I wanted some comfort and frills. So I got the new one and I love having the cab and heat and AC, the 4wd,all comforts , bells and whistles. Have I wondered if I made the right decision certainly, especially with the current farm economy a lot of nice 4wd are on the market for a lot lower prices the 4-5 years ago.
I did not get a hydro, I did get a power shuttle, I went with a fair amount of HP as I work a steep long driveway and I'm not a hydro fan. People talk about the resale value and the ease of selling, well I doubt that I will have to worry about that.
It's about time for me to go start my tractor and then to decide if I'm going to hookup to the forks or use the bucket, think I'll put the forks on and carry a pallet of coal up to the house and stack about 20 bags in the garage to feed the coal stove.
Sure is tuff being retired and having a nice tractor to go use. :thumbsup: :drink:

 

[Soundguy]

I'll combine a few replies here.

Yes, it is going to be culture shock going from basic old iron with few switches and buttons, to a pretty much all plastic workstation with 500 controlls and lamps. Heck.. I think there are 2 ways to turn the pto on.. I'll for sure be reading the manual on this one.

AC will be nice.. it's hot 11 months of the year in florida, and some of those hot months are humid.. like 9 of them.. and then there's a 2-3 week period that it would be nice to have a sweater or jacket.. or atleast not be running around with wind blowing on you.. thus the cab and AC will be nice.

The HST was a thought for me.. I could have gone power shuttle. I have run mostly straight gear tractors, but use some loaders with what amounts to a shuttle.. and a shuttle is pretty good. However.. with the wife factor.. I figure that with a forward / back pedal.. I might possibly be able to get some help in the yard if she can drive the new tractor, even if I am driving the old one.

In the end, I think I will like a hydro for the loader use. I know my knee might.

 

[kenmac]

In the end, I think I will like a hydro for the loader use. I know my knee might.

The reason I went HST. After my last left knee scope, the Dr said no more. The next will be full replacement ! OUCH !

 

[TractorGuy]

If you want puncture resistance you want forestry tires.

 

[LouNY]

The reason I went HST. After my last left knee scope, the Dr said no more. The next will be full replacement ! OUCH !

I had mine done 4 years ago really wasn't bad. Getting towards time to think about having the other knee done.

 

[Slowpoke Slim]

I went with loaded R4's on mine. I have had *zero* traction issues pushing large piles of snow in winter. The areas I'm working snow are quite flat, and our ground freezes up hard, freezes pretty deep, and stays frozen all winter. So, other soil/ground conditions vary, depending on where you're at.



I do mow a couple of fields in summer, and I have one side hill that gets particularly steep, so I have to be careful there. The steepest part I back down and mow upwards, and it hits 22 degree angle.

 

[Soundguy]

As much as I love ag's.. I'm still leaning towards industrial due to them handling the loader better. I hate looking down and seeing smooshed front tires that are already pushing max inflation when moving hay bales.

 

[kenmac]

As much as I love ag's.. I'm still leaning towards industrial due to them handling the loader better. I hate looking down and seeing smooshed front tires that are already pushing max inflation when moving hay bales.

I have thought about possibly keeping my Industrials on the front for loader and adding AGs for the rear.
I just haven't had any real traction issues with the industrial rears yet

 

[kenmac]

I had mine done 4 years ago really wasn't bad. Getting towards time to think about having the other knee done.

Reason she said what she did was, that was my 3rd scope on the same knee !

 

[Diggin It]

I have thought about possibly keeping my Industrials on the front for loader and adding AGs for the rear.
I just haven't had any real traction issues with the industrial rears yet

R4s on mud:

 

[Soundguy]

Well, I ordered industrials. Good or bad.. I'll know withing 5 weeks.

 

[BoneStock]

I went with loaded R4's on mine. I have had *zero* traction issues pushing large piles of snow in winter. The areas I'm working snow are quite flat, and our ground freezes up hard, freezes pretty deep, and stays frozen all winter. So, other soil/ground conditions vary, depending on where you're at.

View attachment 579286

I do mow a couple of fields in summer, and I have one side hill that gets particularly steep, so I have to be careful there. The steepest part I back down and mow upwards, and it hits 22 degree angle.

My vote goes for R4, I’ve had zero traction issues. Used it recently for pulling and pushing brush, Day after a rain on my SCUT.