puncture resistance of ag vs ind tires

[Soundguy]

On my oldies I have ww. This new one , I see no provision for it, and the manufacturer loads tires on all machines with loaders. The loader would be useless without weight.

My old loader tractors are running weights and loaded tires in some cases. Not perfect, but works.

 

[TractorGuy]

How about a 3pt ballast?

 

[Soundguy]

I have and do use that, but id like to get away from a 3pt counterweight if possible. They are slightly limiting in some maneuvers and take up more trailer space if I am moving stuff between home and farm.

To be sure, its still an option if needed, but if I can get by with loaded tires I will be satisfied. I see the R4 should hold more gallons, so that is positive.

 

[oosik]

Honestly - unless you are operating in extreme conditions - I seriously doubt that you would ever notice any tractive difference between R1 or R4 tires. My R1 Firestones/rear - Titan/front are 6 ply( both front & rear ) and the rears are loaded with RimGuard.

I have an 1100 pound Rhino 950 rear blade on the 3-point in combo with the filled rear tires. I have lifted 3100 pounds with my grapple - but only high enough to not leave drag marks as I backed up. None of this horse hocky of a gigantic load on the grapple and waving it high in the air. I might be ancient but I'm not ready to go quite yet.

OH and BTW - my previous tractor, that I bought new in '82 - had R1's all around - the tires looked almost brand new when I traded it in in 2009. I'm a firm believer - keep them outta the sun except when in use.

 

[crazyal]

Industrial tires are made for just that, use in industrial settings. The tread is wider and the usually the tire is thicker. If you've never suffered from traction then chances are you'll be just fine going from Ag to Industrial on your new tractor. I have a few places where I get through it but just so I doubt I would be happy if I had industrial tires. The real advantage is loader work. Most ag tires don't like a lot of weight on them Even at full pressure when I have a full scoop of dirt the sidewalls really flex. If turning sharp they do roll over some which exposes the sidewall. I offset it by using the brakes to help steer when I can.

 

[Trillium Farm]

Industrial tires are made for just that, use in industrial settings. The tread is wider and the usually the tire is thicker. If you've never suffered from traction then chances are you'll be just fine going from Ag to Industrial on your new tractor. I have a few places where I get through it but just so I doubt I would be happy if I had industrial tires. The real advantage is loader work. Most ag tires don't like a lot of weight on them Even at full pressure when I have a full scoop of dirt the sidewalls really flex. If turning sharp they do roll over some which exposes the sidewall. I offset it by using the brakes to help steer when I can.

+1 I concur entirely.

 

[standup616]

I have second guessed many times but going industrial to save some of lawn and hope a little more puncture resistance. My first job was in automotive tire shop in 1985 and my experience/preferrence is liquid doesnt belong in a tire. I will need something to counterbalance the grapple loader when I get my machine but going to try it first and see how it behaves with a cab and my fat body in it. The only severe incline I have is probably going to be push mower only once the road gets done. I may regret my decision for the r4 in 2025 when Im retired and decide to do something other than trail maintenance and mow my field

 

[oosik]

I can see your decision on R4 tires for puncture resistance. For my 37+ years here I've always had R1's. I've got no thorns, stobs or sharps that would puncture tires. All my "lawns" are just mowed field grass and R1's don't bother that much. Stay off the lawns in the spring and just go carefully thereafter.

However - I have found after all the time out here - loaded rear tires are the way to go. My M6040 has 1550 pounds of RimGuard in the rears plus an 1100 pound rear blade. Just about enough for maximum load capability with the grapple. I can lift just about 3200 pounds with the grapple. Anything over 2500 pounds NEVER get over 6" off the ground - just a pure matter of safety. I lift the heavy loads just far enough so the grapple does not leave drag marks.

 

[LouNY]

I can see your decision on R4 tires for puncture resistance. For my 37+ years here I've always had R1's. I've got no thorns, stobs or sharps that would puncture tires. All my "lawns" are just mowed field grass and R1's don't bother that much. Stay off the lawns in the spring and just go carefully thereafter.

However - I have found after all the time out here - loaded rear tires are the way to go. My M6040 has 1550 pounds of RimGuard in the rears plus an 1100 pound rear blade. Just about enough for maximum load capability with the grapple. I can lift just about 3200 pounds with the grapple. Anything over 2500 pounds NEVER get over 6" off the ground - just a pure matter of safety. I lift the heavy loads just far enough so the grapple does not leave drag marks.

And after all my time I've come to the conclusion that bolted on weight is better then liquid in tires.
Also I have no use for R4 tires, if R1's are not appropriate go with turfs add chains for when traction is needed.
Different ideas for different people.

 

[oosik]

Ha, ha - thank goodness for different ideas and alternate methods - right Lou.