PT Implement Choices / Questions

wasabi · Feb 5, 2003

Hey all,

I'm soliciting thoughts and feedback regarding some contemplated additions to our PT implement arsenal. Maybe I am suffering from an early case of spring fever, but I am itching to break some ground and tackle some projects that, naturally, require gear I don't yet have. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif Here's what I'm thinking about:

A 60" rotary cutter. I put off getting this last year, so now the weeds and saplings have an extra year of growth. I have heard and registered the advice re: whimpy PT tires, and will plan to change them out from the git go....any other notable caveats? I'm assuming from descriptions that PT's "bushog" is at least as heavy duty as competitors...and that the 60" will be no problem for the 45hp Deutz. Do I need to also get replacement blades?

Next, a 60" Tiller. Also assuming it is as good or better than competitors....anyone have extensive experience with PT tiller they can share. Does it work better forward than back?

A landscape rake. Having never used such an item, I'm wondering if I am way off base...what I'm trying to do is, after clearing the trees and stumps, efficiently get the roots, rocks and such out of the way before tilling...is it worth the money?

Lastly, with old logging roads to maintain and/or rebuild, I'm wondering if a box blade will be more useful than the tilt blade that I have.....I've read numerous accounts here about that being the way to go, but, again, have no direct personal experience....at $450, if it really makes a difference, it could be worth it.

Appreciate any wisdom and feedback for this still wet behind the ears PT owner/operator....this is a significant amount of money and I want to make the best choices as it may be a while before the CFO let's me revisit the essential implement well at Tazwell. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 5, 2003

Buy 'em all and post reviews. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

 Next, a 60" Tiller. Also assuming it is as good or better than competitors....anyone have extensive experience with PT tiller they can share. Does it work better forward than back? 
I don't have "extensive" experience, since I've had it only a year. I use it for gardens, primarily, which have been worked before, and our soil is easy. It does a great job. Generally I run one pass forward, then one backward, deeper, which covers the tracks. All done. A rock caught in it can stop it, but doesn't seem to damage anything. Turning off the PTO is usually enough to get it to drop out.
The 72" 3-spindle rough cut goes through everything I've aimed it at (up to 2" saplings only) so the 60" rotary should be impressive with the 45HP. (The rough cut has filled rear tires, which haven't gone flat, but they don't track straight and they rub the deck.)
Sounds like you really need a powered rake. I've never used one, but will look forward to hearing how you like it. /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif
Sedgewood should chime in about box blade. Never used one of those either. I saw that someone complained mildly about scarifier function on the PT version some time ago.
Have fun>

Scott_F · Feb 5, 2003

I saw that someone complained mildly about scarifier function on the PT version some time ago 
That was me. The scarifiers are easier to adjust and have more positions on aftermarket blades. On the PT blade, they're either up or down, and you have remove two bolts and loosen two others to change the position. For maintaining a gravel driveway the box blade is very useful though.

Scott

wasabi · Feb 5, 2003

Charlie. Thanks for your input.... you are consistently good at advising me on how to spend hardearned money! /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif The 72" 3-spindle rough cut goes through everything I've aimed it at ...only the 60" is listed on the price list for the 2445, so I didn't really give it much thought....you're pulling it with your 1845 right? ...same hp with the Deutz.....hmm, mayber wider would be better?

Scott. For maintaining a gravel driveway the box blade is very useful though How bout for scraping down and leveling a dirt/rock road base in preparation for seeding....do you think there is a major advantage over an angle blade?

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 5, 2003

you are consistently good at advising me on how to spend hardearned money! 

Glad to be of service.

MossRoad · Feb 5, 2003

( hmm, mayber wider would be better? )

Maybe, maybe not. I believe that the brush hog is a much different animal than the rough cut mower. Maybe Charlie can explain the underside of the rough cut mower. The brush hog that I have (48") is a single monster spindle with two swinging blades. Very tough beast. Eats everything. I guess it depends what you want to cut. Heavy brush and saplings might be better cut with the brush hog than a rough cut mower. The smaller footprint of the brush hog is not a factor if you have to take less than full bites with the rough cut mower. The brush hog should not need multiple passes, even in the heaviest of stuff. However, once you have the heavy stuff gone and keep it mowed regularly, you may never need the brush hog again, as a mower could handle it. I hope that I have succeeded in muddying the water for you... now the only way to be truly satisfied is to buy both /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 5, 2003

MossRoad & Wasabi:
The rough cut mower is about half way between a finish mower and a rotary (brush hog). It has three spindles, like a finish mower, but they have tough disks (stump jumpers) mounted on them, as do some but not all brush hogs. Two blades are hinged to each stump jumper. Essentially, therefore, you have three brush hogs under a single deck, although obviously the blades are smaller and lighter than the two blades on a single spindle.
 However, once you have the heavy stuff gone and keep it mowed regularly, you may never need the brush hog again, as a mower could handle it. 
That's essentially true, but we've been cutting pastures for a lot of years with a 6 foot Woods brush hog. If it doesn't have to be golf-course smooth, you can use the brush hog to maintain a grass area. We've never tried keeping the blades sharp, but if we did, I suspect the cut quality wouldn't be bad, just not quite as good as a finish mower or the PT rough cut with Sedgewood blades. The brush hog should certainly be as good as the rough-cut mower with PT blades. If you care, there is a thread or two last summer on blades for the 72" rough cut.

Sedgewood · Feb 6, 2003

wasabi Lastly, with old logging roads to maintain and/or rebuild, I'm wondering if a box blade will be more useful than the tilt blade that I have.....I've read numerous accounts here about that being the way to go, but, again, have no direct personal experience....at $450, if it really makes a difference, it could be worth it.

Absolutely, and the heavier the better. I have a Bush Hog SBX720 which works quite well but a couple hundred extra pounds help a lot. You need the weight to keep it from chattering while loosening compacted soil/gravel with the rippers. There's a picture or two in a thread here somewhere. It also needs to be a foot or so wider than the wheel track. So far I've used the box blade more than any other implement. To build and rebuild driveways. When those projects are done it'll do the annual maintenance in a flash. Then the rough cut mower will become the most used implement I think. The blade I find is useless for anything but plowing snow and its not even great for that - the wheels are set too far back from the blade for easy depth control. I also have an 8 foot landscape rake that's a bit too big - 7 foot would be better - and find it good for moving debris around but difficult to grade a road with.

Sedgewood

Sedgewood · Feb 6, 2003

Charlie The rough cut mower is about half way between a finish mower and a rotary (brush hog). It has three spindles, like a finish mower, but they have tough disks (stump jumpers) mounted on them, as do some but not all brush hogs. Two blades are hinged to each stump jumper.


Knowing PT's propensity for using the same parts in more than one machine I'd wager the brush cutter and rough cut mower use the same spindles / stump jumpers. Anybody know?

 Essentially, therefore, you have three brush hogs under a single deck, although obviously the blades are smaller and lighter than the two blades on a single spindle. 

And the difference in cutting capacity between PTs relatively heavy rough cut blades and my light finish blades is surprisingly little - though my light blades tend to bend they will cut the heavy stuff nearly as well. My next set hopefully will be tougher steel - or alternatively just cheap and disposable; I'm leaning toward the latter being easier than sharpening blades. Also as I get the heavy brush cutting done the bending blades will become a non issue I think.

Sedgewood

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 6, 2003

Also as I get the heavy brush cutting done the bending blades will become a non issue I think.


I'll take that bet.

I doubt I ever bent blades on the stuff I was trying to cut. It was on the stumps, stones, and the concrete pad for the watering trough. Mowing in a nicely groomed area just increases the challenge to find things with which to do damage, but I'm usually up to the task.

Sedgewood · Feb 6, 2003

Charlie Mowing in a nicely groomed area just increases the challenge to find things with which to do damage, but I'm usually up to the task. 

I'll second that.... er what I mean is so am I up to the task.

Sedgewood

Scott_F · Feb 6, 2003

How bout for scraping down and leveling a dirt/rock road base in preparation for seeding....do you think there is a major advantage over an angle blade? 

I'll second what Sedgewood said - and I also think you'd find that if trying to push an angle blade, it will dig in too much. I'll be using the tiller and box blade extensively /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif in a couple of months to redo our yard - lots of rough spots to smooth out and drainage problems to fix. Will report afterwards.

Scott

wasabi · Feb 6, 2003

Scott . Can't wait a couple of months....I need your wisdom now!....I've got the implement itch and, as you probably know, it has to be scratched when it comes up.... /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif. I have limited experience with the tilt blade, but it definately tends to dig in, and when booking along and you hit a root or rock that doesn't break free, it can sure make for quick stops, eh? I assume a box blade behaves differently....the weight aspect sure makes sense to help reduce the chatter factor....

Thanks to all for the feedback thusfar, but as MossRoad mentioned, more information sometimes muddies the waters....now at least I'm sure I don't know the difference between a "brushhog" and a rotary cutter. /forums/images/graemlins/confused.gif

Here's where I am after considering the above suggestions:

Sounds like the tiller is a must have and the PT version is a clear buy. I'll likely go with the 60" though the 48" would probably suffice. I've got the power, might as well use it! Gonna be fun! /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif

The box blade may be a go as well, but if I hear the feedback right I might be better off with an aftermarket brand retrofit to the PT. Good news is I have a rear 3pt, so perhaps I can find a used one or at the least a ready to hook up new one. If I do so, any suggestions as to heaviest duty/best brand? Does a rear box blade need a "float" feature to work best?

Now for the mower...I'd like to go for the 72" as after initial clearing it will be used to maintain pastures and occasionally cut brush to clear trails and such, but nothing outrageously thick. Multiple passes with partial bite would not really be a problem if necessary.....but this confusion over a rotary vs. bushhog is puzzling to me. Is the PT rotary not equiv to a brushhog? If not, am I better off looking at a non-PT mower or does PT offer a heavier "brushhog" version I am not aware of...all I saw listed was the "rotary cutter". Maybe, if it is between finish and brushhog, it will suffice. heavy enough?

As for the (basic) landscape rake, I guess I still need more info....I am not convinced it will dig up loose roots, rocks and stuff to be worth the admission price...I'm not ready to spend the bucks for a power rake....but am I expecting too much from a basic one?

Appreciate all the help. Want to make the best choices!

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 6, 2003

I'm sure I don't know the difference between a "brushhog" and a rotary cutter. 

 Ain't none. In Australia, they call 'em slashers, I think. Appropriate

Bird · Feb 6, 2003

( I'm sure I don't know the difference between a "brushhog" and a rotary cutter. 

 Ain't none. In Australia, they call 'em slashers, I think. Appropriate )

And in parts of Texas, at least, they call'em a "shredder". /forums/images/graemlins/laugh.gif

wasabi · Feb 6, 2003

Ain't none. In Australia, they call 'em slashers, I think. Appropriate 

 And in parts of Texas, at least, they call'em a "shredder". 

So informed as to how to properly refer to them, I like 'em even more.

Sounds like ear pros, safety glasses, helmet and flak jacket might all be in order.../forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

Now that you've helped clarify non-definition-definitions (kind of like one of those non-bank-banks, I guess), and I know fer sure I gotta have one of them beasts, (whatever you call em), can you give me hand decidin' just which one to git?

my criteria:

1) reasonable pricing (read: middle of pack), not premium.
2) quailty construction, at least on par with the tractor pulling it.
3) product weaknesses identified and solution inhand. (ie: poor wheel choice on PT, should be replaced)
4) easily adaptable...remember, PT custom attachment plates are $150 each. (think frugal like Bube, Rube)
5) efficiency, utility and likely amount of use must bear reasonable relationship to investment (yea, right) /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

thx, sabi

Bird · Feb 7, 2003

( can you give me hand decidin' just which one to git? )

I don't think so. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif The ones I'm familiar with are for 3-point hitch tractors and I don't know much about implements for the PT unless you just buy theirs.

Scott_F · Feb 7, 2003

Scott . Can't wait a couple of months....I need your wisdom now!.... 
My advice then is to buy them all immediately! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

When you get a chance, could you post some pics of your 3 point hitch? I seem to remember from way back that the PT 3ph was different than the "normal" type. Would be interested to see what it looks like.

Scott

Charlie_Iliff · Feb 7, 2003

my criteria:

1) reasonable pricing (read: middle of pack), not premium.
2) quailty construction, at least on par with the tractor pulling it.
3) product weaknesses identified and solution inhand. (ie: poor wheel choice on PT, should be replaced)
4) easily adaptable...remember, PT custom attachment plates are $150 each. (think frugal like Bube, Rube)
5) efficiency, utility and likely amount of use must bear reasonable relationship to investment 

Good thing intelligent criteria are easily overridden by the burns to buy something.
I am a devotee of mowers out in front of me, despite a little chaff, because I can see what I'm mowing. Conversion of a 3 point machine to go out front would not be cost effective unless you already have the mower. The adapter plate, hydraulic motor, brackets, hoses, etc. would be prohibitive. If your machine doesn't have a 540 RPM PTO in back, you'd also have to mount that to use a rear mower. There are hydraulic PTOs available, but probably pricey.
For your machine, I'd recommend first talking to Power Trac about the 60" rotary. The 72" rough cut is expensive, and can't be justified unless you're really doing a lot of mowing. (I probably did close to 100 hours with mine last year; Sedgewood probably did more than that.)
Look at MossRoad's videos of his 60" brush hog in action, and picture it on the front of yours...

wasabi · Feb 7, 2003

Thanks again Charlie. You advice resonates as practical. I am inclined to go with PT mower and tiller, but may stray to another brand with the box blade....still researching...

 If your machine doesn't have a 540 RPM PTO in back, you'd also have to mount that to use a rear mower ...we're not going there....3ph only, no pto. Any powered implements that we might want to have in back (such as tiller) will be hydraulic and take advantage of the aux hookups already on the back of the 2445...or I may use the 3ph for rear mounted non-powered tools like box blade.